Go_West Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Yes tell me more why was it not used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Yes tell me more why was it not used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 No I was wondering if there is a King name that wasn't used. There must have been more King names than there were locos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 How about King Alfred The Great and give it the next number 6030 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Hi yes something to think about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 With all the mods complete after the steam test one part was to shorten the regulator rod by another 2 mm as we had no whistle and a new PCB for the reed switch the reason for this shorting out on the front drivers was that as the engine sits normally on the track all OK but if you push on the engine the springing allows the wheels then to touch the soldered wire connection and bang!Looks like I must tackle the cross head and other small parts on the body like front buffers and couplingThen it will be time for the tender to be rebuilt /media/tinymce_upload/3bed1d5d7402781c706309c9b2b3d8e9.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/4e8da2e21fa248efe692f9a2fb58dd94.jpgThings to look at on this ready built tender will be the frames the wheels then the boiler and coal space plus working tail light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Before the tender can be changed to live steam, the engine has them cross head side bars to make up. Like most these jobs on this engine take place in the evening as there's loads of jobs that keep me going in the day (unless it rains) so it makes sense to finish the engine first.To fix the cross heads to the back cover of the cylinder a small stainless steel ring was made up and the 2 slide bars silver soldered to this ring once this assembly was complete it was a push fit on the spigot on the back cover. The picture below shows this assembly being soldered together./media/tinymce_upload/58f7b585cab40c5454e673a9351d233e.jpgThis model has no fixing bracket for the other end of the side bars to fix them to the frames or the bracket that was bolted between the 2 bars so to keep it correct these will have to be made and fitted the main support bracket had a screw holding it all in place which you might just see between the driving wheels.Again in this picture below you can see all the parts in place./media/tinymce_upload/222b6c007e16fc4382c4a565c772e975.jpgNow the cross heads were done the cylinders had the brass lagging covers re shaped along with there drain cocks so that they would fit the Hornby cylinders. As you know the kings have no outside valve gear which keeps them cleaner to look at and easier to build As a model. On these engines the valve gear is driven from the front axle with linkage that comes through holes in the frames to the front of the outside cylinders piston valves all this linkage fitted OK with some little alteration as picture above.The only other thing that I have changed were the buffers as I don't like the tapering type/media/tinymce_upload/b43dfa9767e781b1af115393d3ab980d.jpgYes and a screw coupling to Finnish off the front buffer beam, so that's the engine finished I think so the tender will be next./media/tinymce_upload/10940afe7f51117dd97062fc0fe7a1ce.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 There is only one thing I can say gowest - MAGNIFICENT. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 Tender rebuild starts with the body and the coal space the body and part of the chassis floor needs chopping out to give the maximum amount of space for the tender tank I think I will have to make a new tank as the body looks to be smaller than an A3 tender so the picture below is the removal of the coal space by cutting it into 4 bit from the bottom these then can be levered out and the edges cleaned up. /media/tinymce_upload/f7d5b5c81a4b0fe8ecb921cf37d62b9e.jpgOnce this was done there is no more to do as it is hoped that the safety valve and filler screw will end up in this portion of the Tender and covered by some coal as in the Hornby engines./media/tinymce_upload/eebd46628fa090c05b7bfb2f38c64c66.jpgOther parts like the base of the tender will also have to have a large part of it cut away to allow the new tank to fit below this bottom plate./media/tinymce_upload/0a0989f297b89e467a90b4b334762a80.jpgNo doubt there will be many part that will have to change like the wheels I was going to fit the Hornby solid A3 wheels which I have for this model but will try a different idea which is to machine the spoke wheel tender tyres off and make up some brass tyres which will give better electrical contact then the metal that these are made of plus a new brass centre For the pick ups to run on./media/tinymce_upload/83993a49e815e4328b801deb9930f404.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Fitting tail lights to the tender is an easy job and when we get to that part I will show how this can be done but lights on the engine have crossed my mind and after buying some 3mm flickering LEDs and some GWR oil lamps have made up a test sample just to see what they would look like and if there's room to fit them this is a still picture so does not show the lamp flickering as if it's a real flame./media/tinymce_upload/a8217b5166c2e8d9651fc229749be073.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 Well it's raining in the West Country today so spent most of the day in the workshop working on the tender wheels all very nerve racking as I only have 6 wheels and machining them is the time that if it goes wrong it will. So the first job was to machine the tyre off these cast wheels and make a brass tyre to be a press fit on the wheel. Then the centre needed to be bored out and a brass centre made and pressed into the wheel. This centre has a boss on the inside so that the Hornby pick ups can run on.the pictures here show the 3 parts to the wheel and the complete assembly fitted to the Hornby axles and axle boxes. I have also include a picture of the press tool to remove the Hornby blank wheels as it's not a good idea to use a hammer and punch on the wheels as the centre of the axle is made of ceramic and breaks easy./media/tinymce_upload/e796382226c568eb30cadbb203d61aa0.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/86234c7d27ab04de368be2a85a0bb5e3.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/a82a5b09d8fd4975a9221b980aeea908.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/dc8155ee8613b5339c1b2c647354451b.jpgThe boiler is also under construction as I have said this needs to be a new build as the tender is much smaller than the A3 but if made a bit longer than the Hornby one should give the same running time./media/tinymce_upload/c14892fe79de36f34534c4e1a64c4ba0.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/47b05fd1b67629391f3ef3d9597d71db.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 So clever. Well done. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 You're a rare breed Gowest. We need more engineers like you. I like to think I could do what you are doing, I built a working model steam hammer at school. Don't think I've got the get up and go or some of the tools to try now. Brilliant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 Thanks for the kind words I'm sure others can and do this and better than me at a show I was at a bit back a girl was building N gauge engines from brass sheet and I thought that was great work.WTDDid you read the bit about Stratford works and the steam hammer when an apprentice would prove his skill buy putting his pocket watch on the bead and drop the hammer stopping before it hit his watch, did you try that wil your steam hammer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 I'd have to had made a model pocket watch first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 The pictures above have changed as having built the chassis which I will come to in a moment The body needed altering.So when the 2 parts are put together the body and the chassis the intera area for the water storage is getting smaller so looking at other models and pictured the coal space can be made some what larger if more of the tender top is cut away so in the picture below you can see the larger section removed. Now a tank with a much higher section can be made./media/tinymce_upload/b1f01a51ad94854073c60b74b891020a.jpgNow for the tender frames theses are made from brass strip 2 frames were made to the same size as the Hornby frame but a bit longer than for the A3 and in fact the complete idea behind the Hornby design will be used as this works well its just the wheel centres that are different as this is a 6 wheel tender. To start the 2 frames are fixed together with 2 small screws and the axle box position are marked out and then milled out both at the same time, all holes would also be drilled while these 2 frames are screw together./media/tinymce_upload/2f8a413809cb4d8ad26873eb9bf8d9b6.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/8111746cef9a1c2954c9328bbcd37a90.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/0d111013ebde4a2dce2dfd5513d9908e.jpgWith the frames finished and all holes tapped out an insulator was needed and like the Hornby design a plastic one was designed and printed out the only thing will be if the heat generated will damage the plastic as the Hornby insulator is of a higher temperature plastic./media/tinymce_upload/2787309390e1d1170dd2e92656bbc4fe.jpgWith all these parts complete the chassis was assembled, the pickups were cut in 3 bits to match the wheel centres on the new tender these pickups would be held in place by screws./media/tinymce_upload/f208705b874862fc1a9fa21d24b574a3.jpgOn the hornby tenders the wheels are held in place by a plastic base that has the brake blocks on and 8 screws. On this tender I am using a strip of printed board with 4 parrel tracks cut into it that will carry the power forward from the brass frames to 2 small sockets which will be soldered to ears at the cab end of the tender so that the power cables from the engine can be plugged in. Also this strip of PCB will have the small power unit for the red tail lamp./media/tinymce_upload/99a0f7cc9f0491ad7516b0dba54d7b89.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/c3b4e8fca43be43ec5038c3ad8b0c704.jpgHaving completed the chassis the tank needs to be built and the wiring installed then an assembly of all the parts and a test run! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 Well I am typing this for the second time there I was bashing away and then whoosh it all went where I've no idea so will start again.Having almost set fire to the workshop the boiler is well on the way it's just the 2 cut outs that need 2 small plates to fill in the holes in the top of the tank. I have left this as I think I might have to chop a bit more off to get it all to sit right. As was said I made a new tank to fit the larger coal space, the 2 bushes one the filler and the other is the safety valve which is set a little higher than the safety valve on the engine./media/tinymce_upload/5926f2898532962ec826325e0134bde8.jpgThe filler screw above has a hole up the centre and is cross drilled just below the head of the screw to let out any pressure that may be in the boiler if refilling at the end of a run.I soldered thsee 2 items in first as below plus you can see all the major parts to the tender boiler the small copper tube is the steam out let pipe the larger copper tube is the heater housing and the 2 fixing pillars and the end covers./media/tinymce_upload/551d2014e6c77e4946d0bbb2945fea96.jpgAnd slowly the small boiler was coming together bit by bit as the parts were soldered in place./media/tinymce_upload/f7f202c0b15436e63eebdaa1261d68f8.jpgIt was here that I seemed to have more smoke than I would expect and noticed a small fire amongst the bit of rag on the bench?This is not the first time I had a similar problem a few weeks back when doing some welding for a farmer friend on a hot day but things seem to be getting too hot I took of my welding mask and my trousers were on fire at the top of my inside leg.Anyway here we have the almost complete boiler ready to be pickled for a few hours before the final check inside the tender body and after any further adjustments the top 2 parts can be soldered in place And the water capacity checked out./media/tinymce_upload/8a20509d85b239e57e96bcf402374c2f.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 I know they recommend asbestos underpants for some scary/dangerous situations but not generally for welding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Very good gowest - setting fire to your trousers, hilarious. This is impressive work I have to say, you obviously have a considerable background in this sort of work. If I tried it nothing would be as square, neat or watertight - not to mention good looking - as your output. Very pleasing to my eye and no doubt to yours. Can't wait to see it running. Keep up the good work and watch out for those sparks. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 If I may be so bold as to suggest an improvement for long term term reliability of that boiler Gowest.where you have cut out the corners the saw notches are stress raisers that will crack under the fatigue of boiler cycling pressures.if you could make the square corners Into a nice wide radius in the corner that would preclude the problem.i realise it will make fabrication of the boiler closing parts more awkward but it will make the boiler a better product.i presume model boilers are pressure tested at well over working pressure to prove them with fluid before being put into steam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 Hi RAF96you are quite right there should be no corners and is something that is avoided in air craft so is that why you have RAF 96 the Commet crashes years back was due to such an error as pressurisation in tack off and landing generated cracks in the fuselage by a windowI worked on the Nimrod air born radar and even cratches in the metal work would render a complete unit scrap. Pressure vessels should be hydronicly tested to twice working pressure and steam tested to check all fitting and safety valves work correctly in dissipating excessive steam production keeping a steady working pressure level. It may be that under a certain pressure most of this does not apply in these small boilers. As a larger working boiler has a certificate which is renewed every year and there are none of this with the Hornby Models and people that take them to show the general public I believe have no certificates or insurance against public liability?So as you have said I will try to put in a small radius if possible but feel this boiler is over engineered as it stands i cant remember the maths for the thickness times the radi could look it up on the web but life's to short and despite all the work that went into Nimrod it all got scraped any way and the USA system was bought instead (not as good) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 Hi RAF96As you have pointed out I have made the corners with a small radius now and am off to the workshop to make the last soldering operation thanks for your input./media/tinymce_upload/0bfb60818170b1ab878680083b2c26e6.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/e1a4e3c9979bf7ddcbe8523c873c8d4d.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share Posted July 30, 2015 So with the tender almost finished just need to give the tank one last good wash out then the little things like the coal and the rear lamp need to be built so I will start with the lamp.I bought a set of GWR oil lamps and removed the glass lens glued in the front of the lamp this lamp then had a hole drilled through from front to back this hole was the same size of the fibre cable. After this a small bit of fibre optic cable had the end reformed you can do this by holding a hot soldering iron about 1mm from the end of the cable see picture./media/tinymce_upload/29533a22dbd40381880f651e8354d369.jpgThis causes the end to mushroom, stop when the end is the size you want then when cool push the other end through the lamp body. Next was to drill the corresponding hole in the brass body./media/tinymce_upload/99344b9b238e17a71fb6bad76f94aa35.jpgOnce this was done the fibre optic cable with the lamp attached to the other end can be pushed through this hole in the body and on the inside cut the fibre cable at about 1mm long and again heat the end with the soldering iron till the end mushrooms, this will all have to be removed when the body is to be painted./media/tinymce_upload/ca85038ada6c6948b7a92bddbd442e1c.jpgRemember do not touch the fibre cable as this can damage the end of the cable. What we need now is a power supply this is just a bridge rectifier a capacitor a resistor and a LED these few components are all built into the printed board that is the base plate that retains the 3 axles and wheels./media/tinymce_upload/a7b101caa2f24b5f20835d5dae42ea1b.jpgIts hard to see the resistor in the picture above as it is a surface mount component and sits just behind the white lead Of the LED.The LED leads are bent so that it will end up in the bottom right hand corner of the tenders rear panel. A standard 3mm LED can be used and its wires run in the same way. In the picture above you can see the 2 sockets soldered at the far end of the PCB that will give the power connection to the engine./media/tinymce_upload/e9481b51571c1d0fa3cc76574bb52798.jpgAfter a test with a battery just to check all was working well the assembly was refitted back into the bottom of the tender and tested on the track./media/tinymce_upload/19d48be4f3bdd9feaffb97d02ea21675.jpgWith the lamp installation working well might change the resistor for a higher value as it looks a bit bright.The coal is to be next this follows the same as the Hornby engines and is removable so that the tank can be filled with water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 A thing of beauty Gowest and the result of great skill on your part.I trust it runs as well as it looks.I have really enjoyed following your progress and eagerly await your next project.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share Posted July 30, 2015 RAF96 it's like anything you do if the job goes well and looks good your happy it's when it goes wrong and you end up pulling your hair out it's frustrating.So on with the job in hand the coal which is going to form the removable cover as per the same as the Hornby idea. To make this cover first you need to paint the area in the top of the body with oil, a small paint brush can be used for this job this is to stop the fibre glass from sticking to the brass body./media/tinymce_upload/9e662a4c3e40a924a3f0ff9e63803d97.jpgOnce this is done we then need to cover the water tank with foil by pressing this around the filler screw and the safety valve and tucking it tight around the edges of the coal space, it's going to look a bit high may be but put it down to over filling at the coaling station./media/tinymce_upload/554cf6a4e744b648c81948740983b1b7.jpgYears ago when my father was on the railway that ran out of Liverpool Street he told me they were working on new signalling in the mid winter and this was in the days of steam, he asked a engine driver that was working with them at the time that the next time he was passing there plate layers hut to drop of some coal for the fire there so that they had some place warm and dry to eat there lunch. He said that as the engine rolled by not very fast they chucked of a very large lump of steam coal he said it hit the ground slid along and hit the door of the hut knocking it into the hut in bits. Which ment a very cold and drafty hut that night.So taking a lump of coal start breaking it up into very small bits once you think you have enough mix up some P40 fibre glass and spread it over the foil and push it down the sides of the tank area Why this is still wet start to push the bits of coal into the fibre glass/media/tinymce_upload/1df8367201f6545a21318c0b05360901.jpgCover the complete area so that no fibre glass is left showing, some of the coal will fall off when the fibre glass has dried out but any bad holes in the cover can be refilled by gluing bits of coal back in place or just paint the poorly covered parts with black paint. I have done this to other engines and the heat does not have any affect what so ever on the fibre glass./media/tinymce_upload/a423c96d5899321f4c364eac65bb5ad7.jpgLeave the fibre glass to harden I remove the body fron the tank and chassis and then push out the newly formed coal cover from the inside of the body. Clean up all the edges and make good where or if it is needed/media/tinymce_upload/838fee9144b9d60fbc58fb217dd3e3e4.jpgAnd that's it one real coal cover that is easy to remove giving access to the filler screw now it's time to run the tender behind the engine and see how it performs and how long the engine runs on one filling I will do this over the weekend and hope to have some video To show you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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