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Building a B12


Go_West

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Yes WTD your right too many holes i was at the Lynton and Barnstaple railway some time back and they had just found a goods van in a very poor state and talking to one of the chaps that work there he told me "the only thing that's holding the roof up is that the woodworms are all holding hands"

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Hi pidder

i take it you might just have been to the L&B my wife's aunt took the last run in 1935 when then closed but they are buying track and old stations along the old route and one day will put it back all the way from Lynton to Barnstaple I did ask that very question when up there and was told " it's called the Lynton & Barnstaple and that's what it will be all the way" but might not see that in my life time but wish then ever succes. we all have our own railways to build and run so what ever you are into have fun.

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then youll  know more about whats going on than me i see some where they said that theres over 500 miles of private railways in the UK now which is good to here.

not much to report today as spent time on other jobs just to say the somke box door mod's are done read on.........

As I mentioned was the oiling of the engine the Hornby system was to have a removable screw under the chimney as in the A4’s or the removable chimney and exhaust screw as in the A3’s.

The idea I had some time ago was to add a valve and leave the chimney fitted in place this was easy on the Schools engine but could not be used on the S69 as the exhaust was a different design so a separate valve fitting was used and it was decided to fit this in the front of the oil tank and to gain access to the valve would be by opening the smoke box door.

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In the picture here are the new hinges one set fitted to the door and the other set fitted to the smoke box front with a long hinge pin to fix it all in place.

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The smoke box door was held shut by a spring clip made from some brass wire soldered to the door as in the picture here.

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Once the oil tank had been filled the door could be clipped shut. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the lack of postings but I have had a few problems with the engine these were not the mechanical parts but the electronics. These parts were failing due to over heating and I was hoping to get some video of the engine running round my track but as it set off all seemed well then after a few minutes I lost control and no matter what I did via the Hornby control unit the engine just kept going.A close look at the build of the electronic system and the position showed that they were over heating fix above the motor gear assembly so a new location needed to be found. These engine had many changes in there life and in the picture here you can see changes to the boiler and running boards under LNER. This picture was taken by Bernie who has a large 00 gauge layout in a special building in his garden./media/tinymce_upload/241bb006a00257fba2754a0b95ef649c.jpg

As for this engine I was not going to post any new designs or changes until I had run tests to prove it was going to work plus I had a weekend away on the West Sumerset Railway a evening dinner for two first class service steam pulled on the Quantock Belle seeing steam engines in winter time leads to lots of steam hanging around the engine as it waits to start it journey as in the picture here and I have noticed that even the Hornby live steam engines look even better on a cold day.Later we left the train to visit Dunster by Candle light all very Christmas looking, so lots of other things going on in the past few days I hope I’m not clogging up Hornby’s system on other railway bits.

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What I did to over come the heating up of solder joints and the SSR over heating was after tests to remake the motor control board and fit it at the rear of the engine behind the last set of drivers.Also a new power board was made to fit on top of the motor and gear assembly these components were less troubled by the heat.

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By locating the SSR under the chassis on a small printed board with it relevant components it was hoped that this will solve the over heating problem.

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In this drawing gives the layout of the idea and it would also act as a cover to the bottom of the chassis to keep the wiring from dropping down to track level.

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This new idea was looking good and it was coming together well only some steam tests would prove if at last I had got it right. the PCB did not have the bridge rectifier on or the capacitor this way it could be kept as small as possible as it was to fit between the last set of rear drivers.

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As it was a double sided bit of printed board a small square of nickel sheet was cut and was soldered to the back copper side of the PCB and a single hole drilled to pick up with one of the motor holes in the bottom of the motor bracket.

A fly lead 3 wires connecting this printed board to the power and switch board on top of the motor gear Assembly.

These 3 wire were terminated to a small socket which would plug into this board having all the connections for power and the motor connection.

This picture was of the test board in place on top of the motor gear assembly with the small plug and wires in place to the motor control board below.

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Another view of the power board and the Motor control board fixed in place under the frames this board would also act as a cover for the wires which connect to the tender.

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This picture shows the 3 wires 2 black and one white coming up from the motor board to the power board and the back of the small plug fixed in place.The next part is to fit the reed switch in its new position away from the heat of the supper heater and see if this works I will explain more when the new parts for this switch assembly are made.

All that was needed now was to build up the engine once more and steam test it again and see if this has fixed the faults from previous tests.

 

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I openly admit I am not into steam, but I do enjoy reading your posts. Particularly as they are so well documented with the step by step photos. I bet your workshop is a tinkerers paradise.

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Scale is always a problem and how best to show an item and its size I have used a coin in the past and once a match head but as this is read in countries far outside little old England they may not know what a British coin is in size. But having said that if I see a part needs some clarification in size then will add a ruler may be or coin so it gives the reader a  idea of size.

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Rob

thanks for the link i hope this will help make things look to scale

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no seriously i have retaken the picture with a 20p coin of the printed board hope this helps but still some test to go before i can say we are getting nearer the paint pot. 

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