Jump to content

bring back the Triang Steeple Cab


Forum-1211528

Recommended Posts

Nice looking loco there, Colin.  Perhaps with the new 0-4-0 chassis Hornby are using it is a possibility

Rod

 

Rod i think the Peckett underframe might be suitable as it would be alot smaller than an XO4 motor bogie there is scope here for the Steeple Cab to be revived as i love these Electrics so very possible Hornby will bring back the Triang classic!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The body looks quite nice but the model is let down by the Nellie chassis. Upgrade the chassis, with a modern motor, and you'll no longer get the performance of the original model.

 

Why is it some people on this forum seem to be determined to drag us back to the standards prevalent in the 60s and 70s?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I believe Marklin used to make something similar but with a diecast body. It was my understanding that Tri-ang made this one to appeal to the Dutch market.  It was not in the range very long and was never very successful in the UK, and so quite hard to find second hand. I don't think it would be any more popular today.

 

I also have four, two in red. If you look hard you can see one of mine in the middle, during a show at the NRM in 2010

/media/tinymce_upload/352475bac0dbebc5bb60328877ff2456.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The instructions do exist....

 

Basically it requires:

1. a working (metal) Panto.

2. The selector Switch (bolts onto the "weight" part of the chassis, and sticks up through th eslot in the body.)

3. Some wires re-routing and re-soldering.

They also reccomend changing the body....as the Green ones have the switch positions marked! 😉

 

The Plastic Panto is in two parts...

 

The frame, and the "bow".

 

A lot of the "Bows" are missing, as it seems to only be clipped in place....

 

The frame can also go missing....

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Primary Series....introduced in 1959.

 

Clockwork....

0-6-0 Saddle Tank (Black and Green two-tone...)

0-6-0 Diesel Shunter (Maroon)

 

Electric...

 

0-4-0 "Steeple Cab" (Maroon with Plastic Panto.)

 

Later mainly replaced by...

0-4-0 Steam Loco (Black "Nellie" with heat printed BR Early Crest in Gold, like the eraly R.50 Princess.)

 

Later with BR Late Crest Transfers. Some without Transfers it seems...Some without red buffer beams as well!

 

Short bogie coaches (Basically the 7 Inch BR Coach) in Green and in Red.)

 

In sets, the Red coaches went with the Green amd Black Saddle Tank, the Green coaches with the Red (Maroon) Steeple Cab....

 

"Integral" chassis and body wagons...Primary Series specials.

4 wheel Open Wagon (Shades of Grey).

4-wheel Closed Van (Shades of Green, with a removeable Grey Roof.

 

Both of these were based on French style models, said to be from Jouef!

 

Train sets had two opens and 1 Van.

 

We have some Primary sets! 😉

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you noticed that the two slots for the chassis mounting tabs are different sizes...

 

The Clockwork and pre-1961 "Plate Frame" Electric chassis lugs are thinner than those on the Post 1961 (S and SS) Cast Electric Chassis Blocks, and the holes in the bodies are matched to the original chassis.

 

I found this when attempting to mount an early 0-6-0 body on to a later chassis! 😮

 

Also, I have noticed that the original Tri-ang cast Mazac Clockwork Keys can wear out....so we have an old Meccano Hornby key (I think from the cheaper O Gauge Range) that is stronger. 

 

The later Tri-ang Hornby keys (pressed out and formed plare metal) also work, but are not really strong enough for the larger mechanism, the "handle" part is not really wide enough for leverage, and can get twisted! ☹️

 

It can be fun trying to get the Govenor adjusted so that the train stays on the (Series 3) Track....most seem to have got out of adjustment since being set at the Factory! 😉

 

The original instructions are helpful!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I used original plate frame X04 chassis to electrify my clockwork Primary Series locos and I do not recall a particular problem with the holes, I do have a few 'spare' R52 0-6-0 mechanisms from locos where the original body has become too damaged to use and as a lot of these are Celulose Actetate mending them is less easy. The wheels and other features of the later ones are different too.  The other problem with later chassis especially those from Synchrosmoke era is that the body fixing is different, a screw in the side and not down the chimney.

 

I have not noticed a problem with keys. Other than finding them of course!

 

I do have a clockwork mech that needs a new spring, but haven't identified anyone who makes and fits replacements. I do however have a spare mech which I have substituted, but it would be nice to have a working spare. The non-working one is under a static display black diesel shunter at present in a display cabinet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plate frame tags are the same thickness as the clockwork mech...it is th ecast chassis blocks, from the 1961 "S" ( Seuthe type smoke fittings) type onwards that are thicker, and so will not fit the slots in a pre-1961 plate-frame body.

 

The side screw body fitting was from 1961 "S" chassis, as the chimney was needed to let the smoke out... 😉

 

The "SS" Chassis lost the front Traction Magnet housings, as the SS chassis has a flat top to take the small Synchrosmoke unit (or te weight block used in the Diesel Shunter, and other non-smake fitted 0-6-0s such as the later R.041 Pannier Tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
  • Create New...