is this so.

[sweepy]

Hello all.

 Just coming back to hornby after trying several different scales,so advice please.

Going to start new railway  with DCC,and would like to know something.

Keep reading on this forum of problems with elite controller and problems

with T T S  digital sound.

Are these problems as bad as they seem?  if so, should i go D C?.

Thank you ...Alan.

[Howbi]

Alan.........there must be hundreds of Elite controllers in use and possibly hundreds of TTS decoders so a dozen queries on this Forum is not a lot........bear in mind most problems are resolved by discussing on this Forum.........I only have 7 TTS decoders and the Elite and not had any problems.........I certainly would not go back to DC now.......but no criticism of DC, it's just a different system....... 😀.........HB

[Bulleidboy]

I have the Hornby Elite and it works fine. It may not be used to such extremes as some, but it does what I want. I do not have any Hornby TTS sound loco's, but do have other makes. What some forget is that the TTS sound kit is a lot cheaper (under £40), than most other sound equipment available on the market. It is a digitally produced sound, whereas others are actual sound recordings of actual loco's. I have a Class 205 Thumper 2-car unit with sound fitted, it sounds just like the real thing (they ran locally to me), but it cost about £100 - sound decoder and speaker.  I personally, don't think you would be disappointed with either the Elite or TTS sound. Before buying, find a dealer that can demonstrate the operating equipment to you before parting with your hard earned.

[96RAF]

I dont think Hornby kit is any better or more than other makes of kit.

 

The TTS decoders did have a problem recently whereby it wouldnt work correctly with other make controllers, but that problem is fixed by a free of charge reprogram by Hornby.

 

The Elite has the advantage of being able to be user updatable, not all controllers can be.

 

Rob

[2e0dtoeric]

When I re-started model railways, having had N gauge when that was in it's infancy, I went straight to DCC. Now, I wouldn't go back to analogue.

As said, TTS is the poor cousin of DCC Sound. In MY opinion, it is great for diesel-type noises, but not so hot for steam-outline, because the sounds and the wheel movements often don't match up. I have two TTS loco's, and about two dozen 'proper' sound ones!

The only trouble I've had with DCC is 'finger-trouble'!

The only real difference is that DCC is less 'dirt-friendly' - and you must keep your track, wheels, and pick-ups clean. Most of the woes are caused by bad electrical connections of one sort or another.

Switch to the DCC threads on here (and other places) and read, read, read, and learn, before you spend any money.

[sweepy]

Hello on this snowy day.

Thank you for your time in answering my questions,some very interesting imformation.

If i screwed my head on properly i Should have asked more  questions sooner.

     Thanks.   Alan

[Jimbo1707820979]

When I re-started model railways, having had N gauge when that was in it's infancy, I went straight to DCC. Now, I wouldn't go back to analogue.

As said, TTS is the poor cousin of DCC Sound. In MY opinion, it is great for diesel-type noises, but not so hot for steam-outline, because the sounds and the wheel movements often don't match up. I have two TTS loco's, and about two dozen 'proper' sound ones!

The only trouble I've had with DCC is 'finger-trouble'!

The only real difference is that DCC is less 'dirt-friendly' - and you must keep your track, wheels, and pick-ups clean. Most of the woes are caused by bad electrical connections of one sort or another.

Switch to the DCC threads on here (and other places) and read, read, read, and learn, before you spend any money.

You've made some very useful points here, 2e0 in advising Sweepy and I would like to add a couple more. First MONEY. Much cheaper to buy DC locos and you are able to run a lot of the older Hornby (plus Lima, Airfix etc) locos which cannot be easily converted to DCC. Also, the controllers are usually less expensive.

Second is SIMPLICITY. Because DC is less sensitive to dirt you will have fewer headaches especially if parts of your layout are difficult to reach and keep spotlessly clean.

So each system has its advantages and drawbacks so its good advice to study both before laying out your cash.

 

[sweepy]

Hi jimbopuff.

    You have added some interesting points i had not thought about,

got a dcc problem already with a sound fitted black 5, lost its puff

all other sounds are fine.

      Thanks.     alan.

[2e0dtoeric]

Jimbo - you should know better than use the blue repeat post button for your reply!

I've taken the liberty of stripping your reply out of my post, to make it easier to read - hope you don't mind!

For everyone else - PLEASE scroll down a bit, type your response in the blank WHITE area, and use the GREEN reply button - thanks -

-

You've made some very useful points here, 2e0 in advising Sweepy and I would like to add a couple more. First MONEY. Much cheaper to buy DC locos and you are able to run a lot of the older Hornby (plus Lima, Airfix etc) locos which cannot be easily converted to DCC. Also, the controllers are usually less expensive.

Second is SIMPLICITY. Because DC is less sensitive to dirt you will have fewer headaches especially if parts of your layout are difficult to reach and keep spotlessly clean.

So each system has its advantages and drawbacks so its good advice to study both before laying out your cash.

 

[2e0dtoeric]

Simplicity - a basic oval and one siding in DC (analogue) is simple enough, but when you get to multiple loops, multiple controllers, and multiple sidings, and all the switchery and electrical spaghetti that goes with it, what could be easier than DCC with just one pair of wires to control EVERYTHING? (ignoring buses, etc, for now!)

-

Let's not turn this into another DCC vs analogue discussion!

[Jimbo1707820979]

@2e0     Mea culpa, I plead "Guilty" . But thanks for your assistance. Maybe I was a bit tired after cleaning some DCC track with a Track Rubber 😀.  Yes, the discussion of DCC v. Analogue is something we'd better not get into. I would like to mention, however, that my analogue layout in the garage has 3 long loops, several points and an elevated section so it is possible to run 3, even 4 locos with one controller if you are careful but I agree that on a smaller analogue layout it would be chaotic.

[Urbarm8]

I have a Hornby Elite and a Gadwall TTS sound decoder. It seems ok to me, but i only don't actually have a model railway atm so i've only ran it on a straight lol.

 

What i did notice though, is the Gadwall TTS has 16 sound functions i believe, but the Hornby Elite can only access the first 12 sounds....

[Howbi]

@Urbarm8.........the Elite can operate 29 functions ie.F0 to F28.......so there must be a problem with your particular set up or decoder.........HB

[Chrissaf]

The Elite can access all functions from F0 to F28.

.

• Pressing the Function button the first time accesses F0 to F9
• Pressing the Function button for the second time accesses F10 to F19
• Pressing the Function button for the third time accesses F20 to F28
• Pressing the Function button for the fourth time clears the Function display
• Pressing the Function button for the fifth time accesses F0 to F9 again to start the loop all over.

.

Therefore if for example you want to operate function F23 from scratch. You press the Function button 3 times to access F20 to F28, followed by the number 3 button for F23. You do not try and enter the Functions above F9 as a TWO digit number.

.

/media/tinymce_upload/472a500efd6b99648b2400c9375b1c7f.jpg

.

PS - HB got in just ahead of me whilst I was typing.

[Urbarm8]

I shall be printing that picture you've posted Chrissaf! Thanks for the info, i thought it was weird.

 

However, in my Elite manual it states it can control 13 functions (just dug it out) so i must have an old manual?

 

/media/tinymce_upload/fc4820c9e24719cbf56bf357ce07c114.jpg

[RDS]

Jimbo - you should know better than use the blue repeat post button for your reply!

 

 

It is refreshing to see someone other than just us Moderators trying to stop people from using the Blue button, especially when their whole reply is written in the Yellow background and therefore undistinguishable from the original text.

[Howbi]

got a dcc problem already with a sound fitted black 5, lost its puff

all other sounds are fine.

Sorry if it's a daft question but have you turned on F1 to get chuffing?..... 😮........HB

[Howbi]

@RDS..........The blue quote button is useful where you are replying to a post on a previous page so context is understandable as I have above........simple really........but it is frustrating when posters can't be bothered to scroll to the bottom of the page to type in the "Reply To" box......... 😀.........HB

[sweepy]

Howbiman.Not a daft question,when you know just how stupid i am if anything digital is involved   ,

Just  me being a old man trying to learn .

 

I will press F 1 tomorrow ,see what happens.

Thanks to who responded to my question.

              Alan.

[RDS]

@RDS..........The blue quote button is useful ...

 

I agree - but only if used properly.  I use it regularly myself, for example as above but it goes all wrong when the new text is typed immediately below the old and therefore finishes up in the Yellow area.  

[walkingthedog]

In some cases the reply is typed in the middle of the quoted text.

[2e0dtoeric]

It has been suggested many times, by myself and others, that Hornby either remove, or re-label the blue button - to read 'Repeat!'

[walkingthedog]

Or 'Quote'. 

[RDS]

My preference is that the Blue arrow is changed to the colour White so that it disappears in the background and will be invisible to most people.  It will still be there for those who can use it as it was intended and it will show up when hovering.  This would be a very very simple change for the website developers.

[Fishmanoz]

Sweepy, given you have an old hard copy version of the manual, tells us whether pressing F1 gets you all the functions or not as your firmware may be out of date. Tell us what the first numbers are to appear on screen when you turn the Elite on.  They are the firmware version and should be 144.  If they are 13 or less, you will definitely need to upgrade and we can give you a link to the post from Chris giving detailed instructions on doing it.