holbeck67 Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 Hi guys. I'm new here and returning to railway modelling after a gap of many years. I'm pondering baseboard materials. I've been looking on ebay and Amazon and found some very reasonably priced MDF boards, i.e. £28 for a 6x3 board on ebay. Trouble is, I then read that MDF is not ideal, that it can absorb moisture and can be difficult to fix track pins into, and that Sundeala is better. However, I then found a comment that Sundeala is not ideal as it too absorbs moisture. Any comments or advice would be very welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDS Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 It depends where you are going to have your layout. I use 18mm ply with a sheet of Sundeala bonded on top. The Sundeal is ideal because pins can be just pushed in and they stay very firm but can be removed by levering gently under the relevant sleeper. MDF is very hard and as you say will absorb moisture at which point it becomes thicker and therefore not flat anymore. I would not use MDF. Unless the layout is indoors, Plywood is probably the best, as it will allow you to drive pins in and will remain quite flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 I use 18mm ply on a strong frame. Good track pins can be pushed into it. Very strong and rigid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 Forget sundeala, forget MDF, use ply - the best quality that you can afford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holbeck67 Posted February 12, 2020 Author Share Posted February 12, 2020 Many thanks for all the replies. They're much appreciated and have pointed me in the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morairamike Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 12mm ply. Measure what sizes you want for the area you have. Then draw these out so they they sit on a plan that represents a large sheet of ply. Then take that plan to B&Q, select a large sheet of ply and take it to the cutting room. Give the plan to the operator and he will cut the individual boards from the sheet. You get so many cuts for free. I got all my individual boards out of two sheets with very little wastage. The resulting boards now fit in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 I had two boards with Sundeala tops for years and they never sagged or warped. If you have your layout indoors (the house not the garage), and the Sundeala is on a good framework, it will be fine and it is quiet. When I built my layout in the spare bedroom (10'x7') I used MRS in Poole (there are other suppliers), who supplied all the framework and tops in marine quality ply - they sell a variety of sizes as well as producing bespoke boards. The old boards with the sundeala tops were thrown away - they were still in very good condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyd 85B Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Like you, I read so many conflicting opinions on the best base material to use and decided to go with 18mm marine ply, as my layout is in an insulated shed in the garden. Having bent a lot of track pins trying to get them into the ply, despite using small hammers, pin pushers, drilling pilot holes, etc, I was introduced to Sundeala on a track-laying course. Back home, I bonded a sheet to the ply and have had no problem with warping after two years, plus the pins are easy to insert, stay put, and can be easily removed. Sundeala also gives quieter running, is easy to cut and misplaced holes can be repaired by adding a little PVA to wetted, shredded, offcuts, moulding into an invisible repair then sanding flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir john Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 I have a layout in a shed at the end of my garden when I built it 6 years ago I used 18mm chipboard screwed to 35mm square timbers it's never moved even with all the extreme of weather Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Lyd how in heavens name did you bend track pins in ply. Did you use a club hammer? I always push mine in with the end of some pliers but................. I only use Gaugemaster pins, very sharp with a perfectly flat head, like me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyd 85B Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Lyd how in heavens name did you bend track pins in ply. Did you use a club hammer? I always push mine in with the end of some pliers but................. I only use Gaugemaster pins, very sharp with a perfectly flat head, like me. Gaugemaster pins are heavier and more robust than the Peco ones I use, which are slimmer, finer and more refined - like me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 The Peco ones are a tad flimsy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffed Out Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Blimey, that Sundeala isn't cheap is it. Blow that for a game of cricket. That'd be almost £90 for my layout.. 😮 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Waste of money in my view. Still each to his/her own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37lover Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 My baseboard is mdf but that is not what I'm posting about. The mdf is covered with fibre boards from a local Builders Merchants, the boards were 8ft x 4ft x 1/2" thick. They are meduim dense and very like Sundeala but at a fraction of the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morairamike Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Track pin fixing, drill a small hole about 3/4 the diameter of the pin. Make hole slightly shorter than the pin. Push pin in. They can be easily removed.Please note this method is not for everyone but it does remove the need to use a 4lb lump hammer which may damage those carefully laid rails which would necitate the removal of the pins just thumped home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Still think it's best just to push them in with no pre drilled hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mico11 Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 I have to chuckle to myself for once again we get a question from a newcomer to the hobby who, unwittingly, does not provide the vital detail to enable an accurate answer to be provided . It is to be expected. In this case the essential question is, where is the layout to be installed? Instead we often get from the members their experiences, what was best for them in their environment. Perhaps from our replies and further considerations, I might offer the following observations:- BOARD 18mm ply Sundeala (framed) Installed in the house, normal temperature XXXX XXX Installed in the house unheated or garage XXX Deld. cost of 9mm board nominal 4x2 £16.50 £18 Quietness of running stock XX XXXX With basic loco sound incorporated XX XXXX Ease of installation/maintenance of track in house XXX XXXX From the experts, Sundeala is considered old hat XXXX X Let us hope this may further help Holbeck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyd 85B Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 As Franklin D Roosevelt said, 'There are as many opinions as there are experts'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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