Mico11

PD I use magnets to provide uncoupling in the situations you describe. There are several types on Youtube to give you some ideas. One important thing to remember is that the uncoupler must be non magnetic, Hornby unfortunately are. Presumably Kadee couplings, as decribed earlier, over come this problem. Check this out. Mine are cheap installations on existing track, with the magnets held in position between the sleepers by superglueing them to a thin strip of metal under the sleepers; 6 magnets per installation. All readily available on the net. A Rexel No. 10 staple, shaped and glued to the coupling (Youtube) completes this non permanent arrangement. I have 6 on my layout and they work well. Make sure you adequately glue the staple/ coupling to provide minimum maintenance. .

Thank you Joe, it gives us all confidence.

Bogmonster I am no expert but offer the following advice:- Loco Flanges It is important that you can distinguish, apart from visually, the difference between old stock and new stocked flanges because, as explained above, old heavier flanged wheels do not take kindly to new track and should be avoided unless their modification is contemplated. You state much of your equipment is Hornby, and I have read in discussion here that a general yardstick in differentiating the difference between the two is :- Hornby R1-1000 old flange, Hornby R1000> new flange. This has stood me in good stead over the years.

WTD With 20000 entries WTD I would not be welcoming you to the group, would I. I am trying to help a newcomer.

Welcome to the group. It might help you to comprehend what is at issue here if you, on the discussion group, top right hand side, in the "search forum" column, insert T9.

We can never be sure of your modeling background, and I appreciate the nostalgia mentioned, but I doubt if anyone on here is going to recommend you procede with such outdated, troublesome to say the least equipment. You have done a good job with the photos illustrating the hazards. Don't procede with it, full stop. If this is just not a passing fancy for the children why not try a kit set, ie rolling stock, track and power. There is plenty of variation available.I am sure you know where to look. And by the way welcome, you have come to the right place for advice although on occasion can be difficult to accept.

Looks like there is plenty of work ahead and supplementing the advice given above you might like to consider:- Me being old fashioned, and perhaps in trying to keep the cost down I have used, over the years, the Peco PL 20 switch to isolate any area you wish by cutting the track and more particularly with keeping 2 locos active on the same line. I notice you have several terminal lines which could incorporate this scheme and I have used magnets between the sleepers to uncouple automatically, then isolate the loco, for carriages/wagons to be taken away from the other end of the set up. Or perhaps, for steam, with magnets, an express loco to pull up in an intermediate station to auto uncouple and be replaced with a fresh engine. It all works, just a thought.

Hello ktp, you don't give the size of the board in question, which would have helped with the suggestions. If all else above fails,is it possible to cut off the offending section and replace it? Do not proceed with the warp, you will forever be regretting it. All the best.

I have to chuckle to myself for once again we get a question from a newcomer to the hobby who, unwittingly, does not provide the vital detail to enable an accurate answer to be provided . It is to be expected. In this case the essential question is, where is the layout to be installed? Instead we often get from the members their experiences, what was best for them in their environment. Perhaps from our replies and further considerations, I might offer the following observations:- BOARD 18mm ply Sundeala (framed) Installed in the house, normal temperature XXXX XXX Installed in the house unheated or garage XXX Deld. cost of 9mm board nominal 4x2 £16.50 £18 Quietness of running stock XX XXXX With basic loco sound incorporated XX XXXX Ease of installation/maintenance of track in house XXX XXXX From the experts, Sundeala is considered old hat XXXX X Let us hope this may further help Holbeck.

Look on ebay R076 spare parts might be of assistance.

Hello Freypal, and welcome. On this page and in the "Search Forums" column you may care to type in 28XX to find previous discussion on this subject.

Hello Andy, I am back. Have you now done the Mazak Rot research suggested to you? I cant personally answer your question. You are now getting a wealth of problem experiences from others on this subject. Do what they state precisely match the problem you have? If so you now have the answers. If not, and I can imagine your predicament, professional help might be the way forward. You state that it was bought from a well established source. If it was recent, they know the score regarding selling faulty goods although I must admit this class has multiple sales. I note your latest intensions - good luck.

Hello Andy, I think we can be a little more helpful here. If what you describe is mazak rot you probably have a serious problem on your hand. Others on here can be more specific but if its distortion you have you might consider getting a refund, it could be that bad. Look up mazak rot, it is well documented, even on here as "search forums" and the best of luck.

It's the same engine as an AEC coach if that helps,

Hello, looking at your blog and relative newness to OO gauge, you might like to consider that this valve gear item is no longer being produced, as with some other Hornby valve gears that I can't get, more's the pity. Don't know for sure but it might end your frustration if others on this forum with the same X8848 problem could confirm my thoughts. Let's hope I am wrong.