Mico11

PD I use magnets to provide uncoupling in the situations you describe. There are several types on Youtube to give you some ideas. One important thing to remember is that the uncoupler must be non magnetic, Hornby unfortunately are. Presumably Kadee couplings, as decribed earlier, over come this problem. Check this out. Mine are cheap installations on existing track, with the magnets held in position between the sleepers by superglueing them to a thin strip of metal under the sleepers; 6 magnets per installation. All readily available on the net. A Rexel No. 10 staple, shaped and glued to the coupling (Youtube) completes this non permanent arrangement. I have 6 on my layout and they work well. Make sure you adequately glue the staple/ coupling to provide minimum maintenance. .

Thank you Joe, it gives us all confidence.

Bogmonster I am no expert but offer the following advice:- Loco Flanges It is important that you can distinguish, apart from visually, the difference between old stock and new stocked flanges because, as explained above, old heavier flanged wheels do not take kindly to new track and should be avoided unless their modification is contemplated. You state much of your equipment is Hornby, and I have read in discussion here that a general yardstick in differentiating the difference between the two is :- Hornby R1-1000 old flange, Hornby R1000> new flange. This has stood me in good stead over the years.

WTD With 20000 entries WTD I would not be welcoming you to the group, would I. I am trying to help a newcomer.

Welcome to the group. It might help you to comprehend what is at issue here if you, on the discussion group, top right hand side, in the "search forum" column, insert T9.

We can never be sure of your modeling background, and I appreciate the nostalgia mentioned, but I doubt if anyone on here is going to recommend you procede with such outdated, troublesome to say the least equipment. You have done a good job with the photos illustrating the hazards. Don't procede with it, full stop. If this is just not a passing fancy for the children why not try a kit set, ie rolling stock, track and power. There is plenty of variation available.I am sure you know where to look. And by the way welcome, you have come to the right place for advice although on occasion can be difficult to accept.

Looks like there is plenty of work ahead and supplementing the advice given above you might like to consider:- Me being old fashioned, and perhaps in trying to keep the cost down I have used, over the years, the Peco PL 20 switch to isolate any area you wish by cutting the track and more particularly with keeping 2 locos active on the same line. I notice you have several terminal lines which could incorporate this scheme and I have used magnets between the sleepers to uncouple automatically, then isolate the loco, for carriages/wagons to be taken away from the other end of the set up. Or perhaps, for steam, with magnets, an express loco to pull up in an intermediate station to auto uncouple and be replaced with a fresh engine. It all works, just a thought.

Hello ktp, you don't give the size of the board in question, which would have helped with the suggestions. If all else above fails,is it possible to cut off the offending section and replace it? Do not proceed with the warp, you will forever be regretting it. All the best.

I have to chuckle to myself for once again we get a question from a newcomer to the hobby who, unwittingly, does not provide the vital detail to enable an accurate answer to be provided . It is to be expected. In this case the essential question is, where is the layout to be installed? Instead we often get from the members their experiences, what was best for them in their environment. Perhaps from our replies and further considerations, I might offer the following observations:- BOARD 18mm ply Sundeala (framed) Installed in the house, normal temperature XXXX XXX Installed in the house unheated or garage XXX Deld. cost of 9mm board nominal 4x2 £16.50 £18 Quietness of running stock XX XXXX With basic loco sound incorporated XX XXXX Ease of installation/maintenance of track in house XXX XXXX From the experts, Sundeala is considered old hat XXXX X Let us hope this may further help Holbeck.

Look on ebay R076 spare parts might be of assistance.

Hello Freypal, and welcome. On this page and in the "Search Forums" column you may care to type in 28XX to find previous discussion on this subject.

Hello Andy, I am back. Have you now done the Mazak Rot research suggested to you? I cant personally answer your question. You are now getting a wealth of problem experiences from others on this subject. Do what they state precisely match the problem you have? If so you now have the answers. If not, and I can imagine your predicament, professional help might be the way forward. You state that it was bought from a well established source. If it was recent, they know the score regarding selling faulty goods although I must admit this class has multiple sales. I note your latest intensions - good luck.

Hello Andy, I think we can be a little more helpful here. If what you describe is mazak rot you probably have a serious problem on your hand. Others on here can be more specific but if its distortion you have you might consider getting a refund, it could be that bad. Look up mazak rot, it is well documented, even on here as "search forums" and the best of luck.

It's the same engine as an AEC coach if that helps,

Hello, looking at your blog and relative newness to OO gauge, you might like to consider that this valve gear item is no longer being produced, as with some other Hornby valve gears that I can't get, more's the pity. Don't know for sure but it might end your frustration if others on this forum with the same X8848 problem could confirm my thoughts. Let's hope I am wrong.

Welcome. I am not going to advise what is best, as others will ,but an absolute pre requisite is that the board must be flat, at all times, to avoid warping . Over the 6x4 measurement this must not be ujnder estimated.

Ken, hello. I started this one some time ago. I note the ex patternmaker advice but I would be interested in knowing what instrument you used to obtain purposful accuracies. Mike

I have recently introduced, and after considerable development, am rather pleased to be using these in fiddle yards and theoretical main line stations; where the locos have to be changed mid journey:- vis Waterloo to Ilfracombe, change at Exeter. All in an uncoupling environment, 6 magnets per set. I used the Youtube scenario 56-17 magnetic coupling. With 3x3mm Neodymium magnets between the sleepers Magnet height same as top of sleeper. 0.38kg pull advised. My question is this:- Is there any detrimental effect to be expected on the loco (steam) motor when it is parked either occasionally or for longer periods above the magnet set?

HBM Thanks for the info but they are also OOS. I have changed direction now, with the current info.from here. I have a gauge that I made myself some years ago, but it's precise accuracy was unknown. I believe that with the mic. reading of 571 thou. = 14.5mm. I can. with the caliper, make the gap on the home made gauge precise. Thanks to all concerned for their input. I'm happy.

WTD Good try but OOS. Thanks. Cant find it elsewhere

So all the time on here we are reminded that the correct OO measurement should ideally be 14.5mm. And so I bought a £5 electronic digital caliper from China. “This site” is awash with supposedly the same instrument at various low prices, all with no accuracy stated. Now I know what you are thinking – you get what....... But all my measurements over 10 locos do not match the 14.5 caliper reading. I smell a rat. But how do I know the caliper measurement is accurate? And so I decided to check it against my 80 year old Moore and Wright Micrometer in thousandths of an inch – an adequate solution, do you think? The discrepancy was +5% and on an initial consideration of that ideal 14.5mm, gave a revised reading of 13.8mm on the caliper. Now the locos matched. Can anyone suggest an accurate, only to be used for this job, instrument that is not going to cost the earth, please.

I am not exactly sure of my facts here, and I am sure someone will come back with more positive information, but Mainline locos ( if that's what we are talking about) were manufactured in the wide flange era, and with modern Peco points they will be trouble. I have a Collett and it is no problem but you don't want to walk into this one if what you are looking at is applicable to flange width.Spares for this period are becomming difficult if not unattainable, as recently, I am beginning to find out. Sorry to sound pessimistic - see what future comment comes up here.

Ken, I used to think like you regarding tender drive, but no longer. Your dialog infers that you are an experienced operator, but have you had that side cover off the commutator to expose the armature for a good clean? This operation solved my general problems and I hope it may help you. I had a hell of job getting the motor out of its chassis. Ringfield went out of fashion many years ago and most modern loco drives are a general improvement. But don't give up.

LC&DR Tremendous! You have done us all a favour.

I find this subject really interesting. I assume early Triang/Hornby Princess Victoria/Elizabeth locos all carried the same running gear. They still provide volume sales today. It would be a useful future reference point if someone here could provide which "R" numbers are suitable for current Peco (100?) points. I have noted earlier comments made here. From all the pictured online sales, none can be distinguished with chrome wheels. Most sales, I would say, are bought online. I visualise:- R30 R50 unsuitable (I'm guessing) R2823 suitable (still guessing) Perhaps siutability cannot be determined by R number. If so please advise, otherwise I hope this challenge to produce a list will be answered. It is going to save considerable anguish when the problem sale arrives to most of us. Many thanks.