Coupling systems

[AndyHead78]

I'm considering changing the coupling system on the few locos I currently own, and on future purchases, to move away from the typical tension lock couplers. I like the look of the magnetic Hunt close coupling system that I've seen on a few YouTube videos, but they all seem to show more modern diesel or electric locos or HSTs. My question is this: Would they a) Work, and b) Look realistic on steam locos?

Any feedback or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

[walkingthedog]

They look no more realistic than tension lock. I think one of the problems is that to uncouple you have to pull the rolling stock apart. 

[atom3624]

HUNT COUPLINGS:

 

I find them very easy to use.

I also find modern micro (relatively) tension locks often difficult to uncouple without physically lifting up on or other vehicle and twisting.

 

BUT ...

The plastic used is simple 3D printer plastic, not that flexible and often dimensionally variable - resulting in some pulling out of NEM pockets with heavier trains / powerful locomotives.

 

My fault for leaving alone, but I ended up overheating a Class 68 - Dapol - and had to replace the motor and mount.

 

They don't concertina, which is great, leaving the distance between wagons / carriages near constant, but they still move in the NEM pockets.

 

I have glued mine in place, knowingly having no intention to change.

 

There are other option fittings similar to old Airfix / Hornby HST Mk.3 which are very secure with the clasp fitting.

 

Pluses more than negatives for me, but each to their own.

 

Al.

[ellocoloco]

@AndyHead78

 

As WTD points out, none of the model couplings are particularly realistic but some work better than others and some give a more realistic appearance to the whole trains.

 

I would like to offer a couple of recommendations based on my experience. Firstly, you don't have to change everything, and you don't have to have all your couplers the same. It may be that certain couplers work better with some wagons than others.

 

I model (collect!) in HO scale and a large number of models I have bought over the last 20 years have been from Electrotren - one of Hornby's International brands. These are all 16.5mm gauge and although to a slightly smaller scale than OO models, operationally they are pretty much the same. Around 30 years ago when I first became interested in continental models I discovered kinematic coupling mounts and NEM 362 pockets. To appreciate the advantages of these a close coupler is really need and I have settled on the Roco 40270  coupler for making up fixed train formations.  An almost identical version of this is produced by Hornby as R8220. The Hornby version is slightly longer than Roco's and I expect this is to accommodate the fact that OO buffers are longer than HO buffers but they will operate together. I understand that NEM coupling pockets and kinematic mounts are now fairly common on OO stock so swapping couplers is a simple task.

 

/media/tinymce_upload/8bd5a11485594aabceb9624c21e21c06.JPG

 

Hornby Electrotren E5231 and E5219 postal vans with Roco 40270 couplings. These will operate on Roco R2 curves - 358mm radius. Tighter than Hornby R1! These pull the wagons together and in my opinion give a much better look to the train. 

 

I also use Kadee couplers where I find these useful and most of my locos now use Kadees. This means that I keep a wagon at the end of the formation with a Kadee - the actual formation using Roco couplers. It works for me! I have other stock that uses either HO hook and loop or tension lock types but these tend to be older or I've just not got round to changing them. Other than my NHS 66, none of my OO models have NEM pockets.

 

/media/tinymce_upload/872c7d1d5b2c10cb9cf9fe7bd9f290ef.JPG

 

Hornby Electrotren 18003K Type 8000 coach and 3806 AZVI 303 diesel shunter with Kadee couplers. Kadees to fit NEM pockets are available in four lengths as Kadee 17, 18, 19 and 20. They are metal and can be uncoupled with under track magnets. These represent an North American coupler, but to me look a lot better than a tension lock though still not realistic for the UK.

 

I have seen reviews for the Hunt couplings - often hailing them as a game changer! I do not have any myself so cannot comment. Atom3624 gives some fair comment on these above. I do not think they would offer any advantages over the Roco/Hornby types and don't look any better. Another thing to mention is that a vehicle with either the Roco/Hornby or Kadee couplers can be lifted straight out of a formation without any twisting or pulling. Roco/Hornby and Kadee prefer to couple on straight track. I think the Hunt couplers would be less fussy.

 

I would suggest you buy a pack of Hornby R8220, a pack of Kadee 20s (longer ones) and a pack of Hunts and play about with them and see what you think. Other couplers are also available!

 

@atom3624

 

Please elaborate on what went wrong with your 68? I'm trying to picture how a NEM pocket failure could result in a motor burnout.......................and don't want to experience similar!

[atom3624]

Like I mentioned earlier, it pulled the Hunt out of the pocket, smashed into the back, part derailing and weight / lower power didn't save the locomotive - stuck where it was, I entered to that hot plastic / motor windings coating smell .... not nice!!

 

Motor actually did work when all was cooled down, but 'something' had happened, as higher speeds were not possible.

 

Fortunately the circuit board had not burnt out. All functions, lights included are fine. Superb locomotive.

 

Al.

[ColinB]

I bought some Hunt couplings because I got fed up with the modern type of tension lock uncoupling themselves. I think they are great, the only issue I found was what atom3634 found, that they sometimes pull out. I then found out that the supposedly standard NEM pockets vary in width. On one of the Hornby Mansell coaches the NEM pocket is quite thin so they work ok, on some Backmann coaches the NEM pocket is quite wide so they pull out. In the end I put them in hot water and bent out the ends slightly so that are a better fit. The close coupled ones work really well. Hopefully if they take off, the plastic will get better.

[atom3624]

One more thing .... he says!!

 

On a couple - of perhaps 50 or so that I have - the magnet has pulled out of the retainer, so 'test them' as in gently hold on until the uncouple ... to check the magnet strength (normally more than good enough for 10-12 couach / wagon trains), the magnet doesn't pull out of it's moulded holder, and the holder doesn't pull out of the NEM pocket.

 

Al.

[ColinB]

Funny on one of mine the magnet pulled out, I superglued it back. I agree they need a bit more development. Funny on a lot of the model railway stuff I buy, I find it fails for lack of decent detail engineering. It is a shame because with a bit more effort some of the stuff could be really good. I only have two packs of them which is probably why I haven't seen more issues, I just think it is a good idea.

[96RAF]

The logical thing for magnetic coupings is to have the magnets lodged in a recess behind the buffer beams and the couplings of whatever shape and form could be simple iron or steel links. No having to worry about polarity or suchlike.

[walkingthedog]

I don't like the fact that to uncouple, for instance, two wagons  you have to physically pull them apart. . 

[atom3624]

The electronic Kadee coupling would work for you then.

 

Tension lock couplings are so inconsistent between manufacturers nowadays, and trying to mix some rolling stock with others, you're often with older, larger tension locks against micro tension locks .... and the micro tension locks have different-sized hooks, hence my comment about needing a couple of 'hands of God' physically lifting the locomotive to uncouple.

 

Al.

[RDS]

The electronic Kadee coupling .....

 

Please tell us more

[atom3624]

OK, simply playing with magnets is all I mean - hands free.

 

The point being made is that there are reliable, hands free systems available, not requiring the 'Hand of God' to uncouple, by whatever means.

 

Don't have them, so have no experience with them, have just seen videos, etc.

 

Al.

[ColinB]

It is not beyond the realms of someone to come up with a system to pull the magnetic couplings apart electrically, perhaps by holding one truck solid and pushing the other apart by a lift up ramp, or possibly a lift up ramp that pushes both trucks apart.  As for electronic couplings I do remember seeing an article on them somewhere, but when you consider I have issues finding space for DCC decoders in some locos and some tenders, where would you put the electronics, added to that is the cost. I must admit I find pulling a pair of Hunt couplings apart, a lot easier than tension lock ones. The biggest issue I have is fitting them to old Hornby coaches with old tension lock couplings without damaging the coach.

[96RAF]

There have been various ‘in-train’ DCC uncouplers, ranging from micro-servo actuated to memory wire, etc.

[AndyHead78]

I'll probably use Hunt couplers for rakes of coaches and wagons that will not change very often, and kadee couplers for ones that I want to use for shunting.

[81F]

 Just to reinforce ellocoloco's point that the Hornby "roco" style coupling is longer due the OO buffers being longer.

 

I bought a pack of the genuine Roco type only to find that they were too short for the pullman coaches I bought them for to the extent that they would not couple automatically and when they did wagons tended to derail on curves.

 

With a bit of care and a lot of trial and error you can find 00 stock that will work with them but a lot won't

[threelink]

Of course the ideal thing would be a device remotely to couple and uncouple scale or near scale screw and three links at the pull of a lever. Do forum members think that there would be a market for such a device, if one existed?

[The son of Triangman]

How about electromagnetic couplings controlled by a decoder in each vehicle? Must be possible for DC and DCC? Controlled by function, a simple button push to address the right decoder for a vehicle and another button push to switch off a function switches off power to one of the electro magnets on one of the vehicle's couplings? You could use two decoder functions so each coupling could be individually controlled.  The same method could be used for coupling as well.