From manual to motorised points...

[Steamdrivendavy]

Hi there railway fans.

I need to motorise just one single R8073 type point while adding/extending my layout. It will be out of reach otherwise and wont be able to switch it manually.

Would be grateful for any links offered, that will take me to an ideal solution please.

SDD

[96RAF]

If within reasonable reach then wire in tube is a simple and cheap solution.

Else the point has to be motorised, either by way of a solenoid motor, which requires specific switching arrangements, a stall motor, which is usually much more expensive but offers greater advantages like built in auxiliary switches, or servos, which are cheap but need a specific controller to operate them.

[Buz]

Hi Steamdrivendavy

For a quick electric solution Hornby R8015 Adapter Base R8014 Point Motor and R044 point switch black.

I would however suggest looking for a better switch solution for the momentary contacts needed to drive the point.

READ THE INSTRUCTIONS that come with them.

As different brands do use different color codes and terminal paterns for the wiring.

Don't ask how I know.

Do also note it is better not to use the accessory terminals on the train controller.

But instead to have a dedicated transformer to drive the accessories and points.

So throwing points doesn't slow down the train, or the cumulative effect of adding more and more electric accessories.

Doesn't start causing nuisance tripping of the thermal cut out or other type circuit breaker your train controller is fitted with.

For one only point a CDU is probably not needed but once you start electrifying crossovers and double ended points combinations it will be needed.

regards John

[Mac-_-]

I like RAF first suggestion of a rod running too the point, and cheap as chips ;).

As for going motorized, do your home work on what your going to need going solenoid, it doesn't come in one package. Some i know at the start thought they only needed the solenoid motor only too find the needed the polarity switch, a mount for attaching under the board and a CDU.

If you tally up Hornby's offering in John's post above you could get well over twenty quid, and that's a slow action motor right there.

Slow action motors on the other hand come in one unit, and although dearer there's not a big pile in it, if needing all the bells a whistles that come with solenoid. In my opinion slow action are a far superior motor, and a better investment over the solenoid.

Another thing that might be worth thinking about is the almighty clunk you get when throwing a solenoid point motor, i don't know about other's but it sent a shiver up my spine every time you threw it. On the plus side you knew you threw a point over ;).

In saying all that RAF first suggestion is the cheapest and most satisfying in my opinion, and if possible the way i would go. It could be as simple as a wire with a ninety degree angle on one end, going from the edge of the board to and through a hole below the point. All held up with staples, to as elaborate as your imagination can take it.

[Buz]

Hi Mac-_ -

The only hassle is its getting harder and harder to get a choke cable at the wreckers yard.

Many modern cars don't have a choke cable, auto choke doesn't have the long cable with convenient operating knob and means of mounting it on the end.

So it now requires a bit of engineering ingenuity to use the wire and tube and that can get costly as well.

As for the clunk as the solenoid goes over, that I like you know its gone over,

though some don't like it at all.

regards John

[96RAF]

Wire in tube can be any suitable materials.

Curtain wire sold for net curtains makes a good outer conduit, others are windscreen washer tubing, brass or copper pipe. Supports as required, from hot glue to P clips, etc.

Inner wires can be any from rigid piano wire (model aeroplane shops), bike gear or brake cables, even bike spokes can be used as is with support as suggested. Some folk use choc block terminals both as supports and connectors. Knobs can be bought in most DIY shops and epoxied to the wire especially if the wire is kinked and the hole in the knob is enlarged.

Many use a slider switch as the knob hence getting electrical indication or frog switching as well as a knob.

The bonus with stall motor driven points is they come with additional microswitches for indicator leds or frog switching. Some can even be rigged for DCC and manual switching.

[Mac-_-]

The only thing that always holds us back John is the mind it self, well me any way. I know that if i go to my local council recycling centre, with today's throw away society you'll get numerous things that can make a lever for your points.

And all that you need, could cost you nothing ;).

[Steamdrivendavy]

Thank you all for your contributions. I've had an idea from reading your thoughts.

For an insert, I used a (straightened out) wire coat hanger. It's perfect and also the right length once I straightened with pliers and cut away the 'twisty' bits. Am still looking for something to use as tubing but I do have one or two ideas.

I guess the whole point of all this and indeed the best ideas are those where an everyday item can be adapted for use accordingly. It just needs a little imagination with a touch of perception. It seems that throwing money at it is in some ways - a failure.

Anyway, thank you again all for your help.

Regards,

SDD