Mac-_-

Brian, you say having to push it clear of the points, do you have IRJ's separating the points from the rest of the lay out?

I like to support my local shops too JJ, but a tenner thinking_face. If your soldering for power too the tracks then like RAF said above the sides (can be done when track is laid) or under before gluing/pinning down. I personally go for soldering under the track, easier too hide, plus I'm lazy, one hole does both droppers wink.

Hmm how do you work out that you'd be in strive using IRJs Fishmanoz. Really would love too know how. I hate to break it too you, IRJs have more uses than just for the sole purpose of making power districts.

Most I know only split the bus wire too save four inches, they say you can do a lot with four inches, I wouldn't know thankfully. When I ask why they have their bus wire split, they just look at me as if I'm some sort of fool joy. I'm certain most don't know why they split the bus wire. Your right on the bus wire size Brain, on this occasion size really does matter smiley.

Your right RAF, forgot that JJ put the majority of his layout on shelving brackets sunglasses. I personally think the lift out section is the better way forward (if your able too lift it out), less restraints with it.

If your going left and right with your bus wire, i'd put some IRJ above where the two bus wire's running in each direction end. If you don't your only connecting the loop back up again and wasting your time spliting the bus wires. Your controller won't get confused, either way.

Really in interesting video Brian, wonder how far it could go. Probably cost a fortune in wire to find out ;). Mind five hundred metres is a right length.

It's a simple thing for me it's on the layout's, i don't believe in having stuff too store in boxes. The only thing i would store in drawer's rolling stock related would be spare's.

Until the missus lets go and starts chucking stuff ;). Just caught up on the big move JJ, looking very good :). One thing about putting a hinge section on or near a wall, you have too think about what you will be placing on that section. And take into account the height of the highest piece on that section, for at least a foot from the wall (depending on the height), and move your hinge to suit. And one of the things i would have against mounting the hinge at the wall, and would go for mounting it at the left hand side as seen from the photo's (if it where me), then you'd only have to think about the height of things near that joint.

Good points as always RAF, especially the price, they aren't cheap. If they where in or around the twenty quid mark (i'd need five of them :( ), i think i'd have shown more enthusiasm, and emailed them about the current carrying capability. I think i'll leave the good old choc block alone ;).

I'm maybe late too the party with these, but these powerpoint dowels look ideal for a lift out/slide in section. I think i'm going to give these a go, and do away with my plugable choc blocks which can be abit awkward. PowerPoint Dowel Installation Guide (dccconcepts.com) Thought i'd post it in this thread, as it was about cut out switch for lift out sections. Plus it kills two birds with one stone, being a switch and an alignment tool :).

No it's not shocking, a company only cares about one thing profits. The only way a company would shift manufacturing, would be if someone else would produce and whip their works cheaper and harder. They ain't going too produce something for nothing, so it means cheap and cheap, or cheap and expensive.

I know nothing of economics, two of my close friends did it university, joy to go to the local with when it was open. That said i always felt refreshed after, nothing beats a good sleep. The thing is, is this hobby dearer than what it was year's ago. I think about it when i see threads like this one, and try to remember back. It's easy to look at the past with rose coloured glasses. I do know that i and those i knew in this hobby year's ago only really had one train set to play with. And it took a life time to build a biggish layout, if you where lucky. People now can go straight into a biggish layout with all the bells a whistles within a month or two. How many loco's wagons, coaches and such did your average person have back then. I see some youtuber's with shelves of loco's and rolling stock. Sorry for derailing the thread OP, as for moving back to the UK, it would be great. Would it be good for us, i don't know.

It would be good if you could purchase the Maglight cheaper with out the magnet.

The only thing that always holds us back John is the mind it self, well me any way. I know that if i go to my local council recycling centre, with today's throw away society you'll get numerous things that can make a lever for your points. And all that you need, could cost you nothing ;).

Sorry Chris, i had a touch of little man syndrome there blush.

Is that note at the bottom of your post a dig at me Chris?

Hmm is it different too any other loco (foreby the shell ;) ), can't see why it wouldn't it run with the select. The Select is a good controller.

Before you take it a part, how's the power around the track.

We're all dummies when it comes to things we know nothing about ;). As for DCC it's like everything in life, it can be as hard or as easy as you make it (one step at a time solves most things). Though there is people out there that try to make it sound complicated.

I'd try a bit of loctite (thread locker) on it, only a small amount applied with cocktail stick. I'd imagine the thread locker would react better to oil than glue would. Forgot too say if you do try the loctite i'd go with the loctite 243, it has a bond break at around twenty Nm (if you ever need to get it off again), if my memory isn't playing tricks on me ;).

I like RAF first suggestion of a rod running too the point, and cheap as chips ;). As for going motorized, do your home work on what your going to need going solenoid, it doesn't come in one package. Some i know at the start thought they only needed the solenoid motor only too find the needed the polarity switch, a mount for attaching under the board and a CDU. If you tally up Hornby's offering in John's post above you could get well over twenty quid, and that's a slow action motor right there. Slow action motors on the other hand come in one unit, and although dearer there's not a big pile in it, if needing all the bells a whistles that come with solenoid. In my opinion slow action are a far superior motor, and a better investment over the solenoid. Another thing that might be worth thinking about is the almighty clunk you get when throwing a solenoid point motor, i don't know about other's but it sent a shiver up my spine every time you threw it. On the plus side you knew you threw a point over ;). In saying all that RAF first suggestion is the cheapest and most satisfying in my opinion, and if possible the way i would go. It could be as simple as a wire with a ninety degree angle on one end, going from the edge of the board to and through a hole below the point. All held up with staples, to as elaborate as your imagination can take it.

Not sure about conductive paint, i have never used it. As Chris says Hornby are normally insulated both sides, what i did done one time i was stuck is cut a grove on inside face of one wheel and put a bit of solder in it and filed it down. It's a lot of faffing about, best too buy a Wheel set for the job they're not dear. Or you could try and get some tinfoil around the plastic insulator in the wheel, could also work.

Excellent stuff Colin, most if not all would have binned it, but I've never used that decoder.

Have a look at this Geejbee might answer a few of your questions.