Mac-_-

This thread reminds me off the saying "how long is a piece of string" we all know it's twice the length of the middle too the end, but what is the size.

If you find space tight, i can remember RAF posting a pic of one he had done think it was 0-6-0, and i can tell you it was well done. Cann't find the thread, maybe Raf will remember and post it again. He must have small hands ;), I'll not post my try too replicate his work, he'd be still laughing this next week. It'll be food for thought though.

Surely i'm picking this up wrong, but your not going to have a DC loop/loops and a DCC loop/lopps together as in on the same layout. If so you'd need to be very careful of where you or any one else puts the loco's. I have two layouts one DC (loft) for my old stock that someone wants to convert to DCC 😢, and my DCC layout (in piece's at present :( ), not in the loft. As i say it must be me being silly ;).

Whoa RAF, i'm lucky i didn't read that last night! Or the wife would have thought i was dreaming of her, oh worse still another woman!! Hmm two six inch ducts conecting the two garages, a two flow and two return lines. We'd need mini camera's on the tunels and block detection, it would be cool :). Wonder is there some where in the world that two railway modeler's have done this? Though i'm sure their wives wouldn't be happy, as that would be twice the fun. And we know they think something is a foot if we're happy 🫨.

I think i'd prefer a back to back to adjust wheel distance, i'd imagine using callipers awkward. Though each too their own.

I would run bus wires a round your lay out, if your going to need more than one power clip, i personally think a bus wire with dropper's from each section of track is more reliable way of doing it. Also not as complicated as one would think, plenty of you tube video's out there to give you an idea. Plus if your talking ballasting it looks like it will be permanent, so would be worth the effort. As for ballasting if using loose ballast, you'd be better too put your track down first. Never seen anyone do loose ballast then track, god it would be a nightmare i'd imagine. You can buy roll out track bed that as a ballast on it and fits the track, i have never used it. I have always used local stone for my ballast. I wouldn't rush into ballasting till your hundred percent happy with your layout, in saying that if you use that roll out ballast foam you could plough on with the ballast, as you can lift it again if not happy or want to add things. Though not sure what way it would lift if glued, as i say never used it before.

Sounds good on the lifting side of things. Might splash out on one, if i come across a good second hand one, going at the right price. Thanks RAF.

No i'm not a big fan of sound either, i like to hear the clickity clank, far more relaxing. From what i have heared at show's and stuff i'll skip on the sound in my locos. Each too their own as the saying goes.

You could try moving the power pick up on to the wheel axle, far better way of powering things on rolling stock in my opinion. If you don't mind, what do you think about the hover side of the track cleaner. I have a Sarge (and love it), and not interest in the rail cleaning side of it. I would love too have the hoovering done by loco, and have been thinking about this track cleaner for that reason. Would it be woth it for just the hoover side, does it pick much up?

There's one important rule i live by when it comes to the airbrush, let my son do it ;). Sorry couldn't resist, but true, all joking aside, it's going to be trail and error im afraid. Test out what your going to spray on something you don't care about, paper/wood, before going near anything of value, and do this all the time, even when used t the airbrush. As for the mixture i'm not sure, i know he thin's but what ratio i don't know. I googled thinning airbrush paint and there's a tonne of them, never looked at them though as i have no interest. Might be worth a look. Good luck, oh another tip, remember to take your finger of the trigger when turning a round :O.

Also just watch lineing the decoder up, them pins are easliy bent, and a nightmare to straighten.

I asumme every thing is clean.

There's only one thing wrong with that set up RAF, your not my next door neighbour :(. Love them bridge's. I was think of putting my bridges canal area at the door/ lift out section. Great minds think a like ;).

We where all novice's at one stage or another, i'm still a novice, bad day when you don't learn something :). As RAF said, coulpe of great getting started posts stickied at the top of the forum home page (wrote by Chis i believe) they will help you out on most thing's. As for your track, you shouldn't have to be pushing it back together. When i lay mine i alway's run my finger over the joints too make sure it's smooth (not stepped), it's surprising how many time's you don't get it slotted together properly. Also check is something catching the track fromm the loco or rolling stock. I wouldn't rush into ballasting the track, it's a slow and expensive process (depending on where you get your ballast) and you want to make sure you have your track the way you want it, before ballasting.

Just watch if using fairy liquid or it's equivalent, and only use a small amount.

I alway's wire my lift out section, where the power feed goes to the track bus wires on the lift out section with a plugable choc block (i don't like my trains running when there's a three foot gap in the layout). I like too keep things simple, though truth be known, i wouldn't have the brains to do it any other way ;).

If there was a model railway club close, you could approach them, see if they would be interested. They might even take it down for you if needed.

Did this work Rob, or was it a bit over kill. I was thinking of plumbing one upto my tea strainer.

I haven't read what way you built your applicator, or what way you powered it. If it was mine and i wanted to know the answer's to your questions, i'd run a temporary wire from the bolt too the mesh. Disconect any power when working with the applicator, and wear a rubber glove's for safety when powered up, unless your bald and not worried about static 😉.

Looks really good, i'd say you have nice smile watching her in action 😀.

Only you can really answer that question OP, I have old timber in my workshop, and it's as good as the day I got it. As long as the timber is in good condition, well braced, and level and sturdy I see no probs. You also don't want any mistakes on your table top.

I wouldn't doupt this RAF, from what i have seen your alway's able to help with out being patronizing. I know i'll be pestering you once i get my mojo back. Oh and your right it is a good day when we end it more knowledgeable, sadly i seem tobe going in reverse 😳.

No nothing as exciting as that, just the way I talk Sorry should I say type

Hi CDRC, would it be posible to solder a wire back onto the old spot where the wire broke of? If your not comfortable with soldering, maybe your a member of a club, or have a club sorta close, you could take it there. I'm sure they'd be happy to help.

Hi, What did you mean by the above please? The Sharge track cleaner is for cleaning track, and you fill it with your favourite track cleaning fluid. I have the Esso one, and it looks that good i sometimes empty it (makes it easier to tow) and pull it along with my other freight.