Just purchased

[JS84Z]

After some lengthy homework, I've decided to settle with R3824 BR 35028 Clan Line Centenary Year Limited Edition 2000:

Initially I was going to go with:

• R3221 LMS Duchess of Sutherland & support coach, but it was discontinued and I couldn't find one anywhere in Australia

Then I eyed:

• R3828 BR 60163 Tornado "The Aberdonian" train pack, but that turned out to be a Railroad model (see my other post about this)

What's everyone here's opinion on the BR 35028 Clan Line loco? I'm planning to go full DCC for my layout weeks down the line and I'm wondering which sound decoder should I get for this loco? Is it difficult to install a decoder on a delicate model like this?

[Going Spare]

Because this model has gold-plated metal parts, including the wheel tyres and all the motion, it is really intended as a display model rather than a loco to be run.

[96RAF]

The best sound decoder is likely to be a full fat but more expensive one, however there is a TTS decoder for MN and it fits in the tender so less chance of damaging things, although from memory with my earlier MN there is a fragile plastic part joining the body to the chassis that needs to be carefully unclipped. Ladder or handbrake - can’t remember now.

[new lad on block]

Hi John, I take it that you have already bought the Clan Line.If this s correct, I am with GS, I think it is a display item.I know some may say why do Hornby produce a locomotive with full running potential but Is not usually intended to run.Yes it could be produced a lot cheaper without the electrics.Thats a question for Hornby to answer.

As GS has said, one lap of your layout and the gold plating has worn off, massive mistake, massive price loss.Also I would think a gold plated loco would not look quite right.Your layout though, your money, run what you like.

A better choice to buy second hand may have been R1073 VSOE premier set, or R1162 VSOE set.Both have Clan Line in. Early Clan Line R2169, I think you may have problems fitting a chip in, so I would avoid. Another choice may be to buy a newer MN and change the name to Clan Line.

What ever you decide, enjoy.

[atom3624]

I think its quite a novel model of a superb actual locomotive.

Detailed up, is fantastic on display.

It is an unfortunate finding of all - not guilty - who have purchased gold plated parts locomotives - with contact and running, it does wear off.

Very nice model nevertheless.

Al.

[JS84Z]

Would it just be the actual "contact area" where the gold plating wear off or the whole wheel due to electric current? I personally don't care too much about the gold plating, looks odd on a train tbh.

[new lad on block]

Hi John,I have not personally seen a used gold plated MN. Others I have seen at toy/collectors fairs including, Flying Scotsman, Mallard, and Hogwarts all had the gold plating on the contact area of the wheels, gold plating was missing.

I did not take too much notice of the motion, so cannot comment on that.

I have some of the other gold plated locos Hornby have produced, and as a collector, they are a nice addition to the display area.

Perhaps to get the best of both worlds, it may be an idea, to acquire a MN as a donor swap tender, and loco running gear. Then you could preserve the gold plated components.

[ColinB]

I have several of these not the gold plated version, but just the ordinary version. Really nice model that in my case goes well. Your one is the later version so the DCC socket should already be in the tender which makes life a lot easier (I converted all mine) especially as the valve gear on these is very fragile so don't touch the loco unless you have to. The part I think 96RAF refers to is the speedo drive, I have broke many by forgetting to disconnect it off the rear conrod nut. I did buy Hornby's latest version and noticed that they had stopped adding it, so I suspect that they found it to be a pain. As I said nice model that is super reliable. I think you can still get the gold plated wheels, so buy a pair and fit them if you get fed up with running it.

[96RAF]

I was talking about the tender Colin but yes the speedo drive on the loco is another gotcha if you are not careful.

[ColinB]

Yes 96RAF the trouble with the tenders not only with this model, is a lot of them you have to pull the back back to release the hook that holds the top on. This usually wipes out the vacuum pipe and sometimes the ladder. If the tender is the same as my ones, it is held on by a small hook at the front and either a central screw or two screws one either side, so not quite so bad. Oh and then there are the issues of relocating the water control (I think that is what it is, it is a long shaft) and the two front handrails when you refit it.

[Bulleidboy]

Some of the M/N Class did not have speedometers - so therefore not modelled with them - depends on which year the model is meant to depict. Tenders are another problem - as they were swapped about especially when the loco was serviced - it may not come out of the works with the tender it went in with. There is a fairly comprehensive list on "BloodandCustard.com" of Hornby loco's and how they can be made to represent the correct formation - it also lists the full thirty loco's and their tenders - it's worth a look.

I was not tempted, but the "gold-plated" M/N has been widely advertised at a greatly reduced price compared with RRP.

[JS84Z]

Hi guys, thanks for all the replies!

So for this particular model, which sound decoder would you guys recommend that's appropriate for the Merchant Navy class? How about this one?

https://littletrainshop.com.au/hornby-r7141-tts-sound-decoder-merchant-navy-rebuilt-plug-play/

I watched a few YouTube videos and I'm assuming the pin is inside the tender and that's where the decoder/speaker will be housed in.

[96RAF]

There are two versions of MN TTS decoders,

R7141 for the rebuilt loco and R8115 for the unrebuild one.

[JS84Z]

There are two versions of MN TTS decoders,

R7141 for the rebuilt loco and R8115 for the unrebuild one.

 

 

What's the main difference between these 2?

[LMSFan72]

Well, keeping it simple - the model you have purchased is a rebuilt version of the loco. I don't know how different they sounded, the main modification that might affect it being the valve gear being changed. However, I suspect that to the layman they won't sound much different at all. I cannot answer how different the decoders sound!

[atom3624]

Plenty of recent - last 2 years - videos of 35028 and 35018 for comparison.

2 of my favourite preserved locomotives - always appear to be performing very well.

Al.

[JS84Z]

Well, keeping it simple - the model you have purchased is a rebuilt version of the loco. I don't know how different they sounded, the main modification that might affect it being the valve gear being changed. However, I suspect that to the layman they won't sound much different at all. I cannot answer how different the decoders sound!

 

 

but from a technical point of view, there's really no reason why i cant use the 2 decoders interchangeably? like the sound of the wheels turning would still match the cadence of the loco etc?

[LMSFan72]

... the answer is “probably”. The problem is that TTS decoders cannot be adjusted to synchronise the sound. Hornby will have set the decoder for a certain motor/gear/wheel combination. They are likely to be the same for both rebuilt and unrebuilt but I cannot say for certain. Note that even different locos of the same model may have slightly different running characteristics. It may also be that they are not exactly in beat anyway. So, I would think that if a TTS decoder is acceptable to you, given their limitation, then I don’t think you’d be unhappy using either in the loco.

[JS84Z]

@LMSFan72

... the answer is “probably”....................

 

 

I was actually thinking along the lines of "maybe I could just use any Hornby TTS decoder made for the same 4-6-2 arrangement and the sound would match the cadence" but I guess not after reading what you said.

[96RAF]

There are several differences between the MN prototypes affecting sound, such as the valve gear and also blast pipe modifications that alter the exhaust.

There may be subtle differences twixt the MN TTS decoder variants, but as stated probably only noticeable by the guy who made up the sound file, likely on a hi-end sound mixer deck using quality headphones, not through a tiny speaker in a plastic box, however good/bad these speakers may seem.

As regards using any Pacific TTS decoder the main and very noticeable difference will be the whistles and the beat from the number of cylinders. There may be several other particular to type sounds like mechanical coal pusher versus hand shovelling, injectors, fans, etc. Only you can say if you will be happy with any decoder in lieu of a pucka to type one.

Synchronising chuff rate is a bit hit and miss and may or may not match on any particular model regardless of how much effort Hornby puts into this. This is due to the sound files being made up of lots of bits of static chuff rates, like gears on a car, which increment as speed increases. The more bits of static chuff you have the better the apparent smooth transition of sound, thus synch may be OK at one speed but goes out above or below this sweet spot. On hi-end decoders this can be adjusted or held in synch by a wheel sensor. In my case once the wheels are turning past very slow or the model is past arm’s length I can’t count the chuffs versus wheel revolution anyhow.