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Removing body on R3649 Merchant Navy loco


Pasquin1971

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Hi - hoping someone can help a newbie. I’m planning to fit a DCC decoder to my new Merchant Navy engine. It’s R3649 Ellerman Lines. I’ve followed the instructions and removed the three screws as shown in order to free the body from the chassis. The front end is loose and ready to come off. The rear end under the cabin is fixed though. I attach a pic showing circled the screw I removed at the rear. Also attached a shot showing two bars that appear to extend down from body and round the rear of the chassis.


Has anyone here fitted a decoder to one of these new Merchant Navy engines? And can you offer any pointers to a novice?


Thank you.forum_image_629a5ea825c1d.thumb.png.ad6370bc48d1d5ecdb9f38baf1af2a6a.pngforum_image_629a5eada5195.thumb.png.9d019f32a1cdd4c289acf214d308cc15.png

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Is the decoder not fitted in the tender?

Ah, oops. Yes. I was reading the instructions across tree page - “take body off, then add decoder”. User error. I’ll have a go today.

Not that I can see a need to take the body off now but it does seem a bit problematic.

Anyway, thanks for pointing out my error and hopefully can get it running!

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i found on a lot of the tenders the print/paint acts like a glue to hold it in place when the screws are out. I must admit I have taken the tenders apart but never the loco. Hornby also forget a lot of the time to tell you you to remove some piece of trim, whicj also stops it coming apart.

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I fitted a TTS sound decoder to my Merchant Navy Class East Asiatic Line. The tender body came away easily, the biggest problem with refitting, was that the handbrake wheel shaft goes into the minutest of holes in the chassis, and trying to align the shaft and the hole took some time. Just do everything carefully.

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Why doesn't Hornby make their locos and tenders such that they can be taken apart if and when required without having to disconnect or remove fiddly detailed parts.

Or better still make fitting a decoder and speaker able to be done externally without dismantling anything.

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It is very difficult not to be cynical 96RAF with my answer. I think the answer is they spend all their design time on counting rivets and making it look perfect but don't bother with the practical things. Generally fitting DCC is a nightmare as half the time they have not allowed space for the long wire on 8 pin DCC decoders. Even with the modern locos where they make space for the speaker, frequently they run wires though the same hole so the speaker doesn't fit properly. Then on others when you fit the speaker in the right place and screw down the weight you will find that it is slightly under tension because they didn't design the gap to be big enough. If they are going to continue with small pieces falling off when you fit the DCC, they could at least offer them as spare parts. Personally I couldn't care about the rivets, I have better things to do with my time as I am sure many other people do. On the W1 why didn't they make the front steps an "add on" like they do with all their other models so that 50% of them didn't get knocked off on platform edges. There is an issue on another model with the handbrake wheel shaft, why did they not support it top and bottom with clips so it is not attached to the tender, trying to fit the decoder with its mile of wire and trying to line that shaft up with the tender bottom all the wire being super careful you don't scratch or break anything.

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One of my suggestions Colin has been that as models become more complex both from an exterior detail viewpoint as well as more technical inside there begs the case for an integrated PCB that is not just a glorified terminal block for the lights, etc but also incorporates the essential specific to purpose decoder components, including sound and any other functionality.

I know folk will kick against that idea saying they want to fit their decoder of choice, but some American models have long since gone that way for sound, by total removal of the existing pcb and installation of a replacement integrated sound board, so the idea is not new.

Failing that approach maybe the time has come for a total rethink on how after market decoder installations are provided for in these delicate models.

I have a couple of very well detailed Electrotrens models that are being used as test mules and the bodies are on and off them every few days, to swap decoders, etc, with the inevitable shedding of superfine detailed parts. A clip on access hatch of adequate proportions would maybe have prevented such damage.

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I think the move to 21 pin will help matters as it means as the footprint is bigger you do need to do a bit of design. That still leaves the issue of taking the loco apart to fit it. Hornby needs to get into its Corporate head that people will want to fit a DCC decoder, currently they don't make sound decoders for all their models so people will be taking the loco apart to fit one. So when you do the design try wherever possible to allow the loco to come apart. In the case of loco speedos there is no reason that they couldn't have a thin strut on the chassis that it connects to, that when the body is on you cannot see it, other manufacturers do this. Then there is the case with this loco with the brake handle they could have supported it top and bottom, ok the rivet counters on RMWeb would complain, but so what if they want it without then cut it off and fit your own. At the end of the day if you give the public means of breaking your product there is a more than even chance that you will get it back on warranty.

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Why doesn't Hornby make their locos and tenders such that they can be taken apart if and when required without having to disconnect or remove fiddly detailed parts.
Or better still make fitting a decoder and speaker able to be done externally without dismantling anything.

 

 

Not a Hornby loco but I had so many issues with OR Adams Radials, (I've got a number of them now). First I used to take the body off by removing the front bogie, which is a nightmare waiting to happen. There is a spring, washer and screw, all of which have a tendency to fly out in any direction. Then I realised I could get at the body retaining screw without having to remove the bogie. Then, after watching a Jenny Kirk video, I discovered the decoder could be fitted by simply twisting and lifting the water filler cap and removing the coal from the bunker. That allows removal of a plate beneath and exposes the decoder socket allowing easy installation. What a Eureka moment that was.

Shows it is possible although not documented in the supplied sheet.

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You are not going to believe this Brew Man, I think I have posted this before, but when I was having issues fitting the decoder to my OR Adams Radial I mailed OR to get some advice. They came back with one of those really small US ones, which at the time were very expensive and nobody in the UK had them. Then by accident I found the coal load came out, I think because I noticed the speaker holes in the base. I had even bought a small footprint Zimo one to fit because I couldn't get any others to fit. Once the coal load was out I think virtually any decoder would have fitted. Why though do Oxford, who made the loco not know, or at least put it in the instructions. As I found with my old designs writing it down makes it so easy to remember even if the original designer leaves.

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I think you're right, Colin. I fitted a LaisDCC 8 pin complete with wires quite easily. Previously the only one I could get in was the TCS direct plug, which I think is the one you refer to. As to why OR don't make that information available is anyone's guess.

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I think the thing is they have to want to. Having been an electronics engineer working in a mechanical firm I can understand why, electronics is treated like an afterthought. Mind you the Bachmann V2 wasn't that easy and that is a new design.

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