Rallymatt Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 It’s probably easiest to ballast the track and then drop your level crossing after. That is an advantage of making the approach ramps etc. In the UK level crossings for vehicles tend to have stable ramps and centre sections to prevent vehicles getting stuck. Tarmac, concrete and wood rather than loose gravel. The level crossing on High Fell is a recent addition, I used ‘Model Splodge’ my homemade version of Sculptamould to make the road including the ramps. The centre section was made from Das modelling clay. Using ballast doesn’t always work well, it depends on the type of road, most roads in UK are sealed, farm tracks etc are frequently gravel but much more irregular than a ballasted rail bed. There are some great resources on YT from war gamers etc who model dioramas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 27 minutes ago, Rallymatt said: Tarmac, concrete and wood rather than loose gravel Also now there are hard rubber panels in set sized metal trays used in many locations 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Regarding level crossings, one thing I don't ever remember seeing on a model is the pedestrian access gates on one side. Many of the old gated crossings used to have a small gate where pedestrians could use to walk across when the cars were held up. I don't remember any signs saying "no access if gates are closed" you went through and if the train was not in sight you walked across. Obviously the modern era with faster quieter trains and automatic barriers means the public access gates are not allowed but I have never seen them modelled on layouts, so, when I put my modified Tri-ang TT level crossing on the upper level I will add this feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moccasin Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Those side gates are still interlocked with the signals I think but yes you’re right that these don’t seem to get modelled. They’re not always present but old photos of Lincoln city centre crossings might show them and Grosmont on the NYMR has them for platform access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taunmarc88 Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 Thanks for the replies, I’ll ballast as normal but I might leave it a little lower to allow me to pop the road on top. I’m thinking of a quiet county lane style crossing so I’ll have to do a road surface I think, I can use my gravel for a yard area perhaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taunmarc88 Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 Help! I have a power issue and I’m not sure what I’ve done… when I open the point at the far side of the layout all power is dead from the point at the front round the curve. So I’m assuming the point at the front is not deliveringpower onward around the loop. When all points are close the loco will move as it is passing both ways. The power is supplied from the left side of the station as seen in the pic. I’ve cleaned the point but maybe I need to be a bit rougher? It was fine until I ballasted so perhaps the glue has got in somewhere? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Almost certain there is some glue on either the blades or the contacts on the point you have ballasted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dBerriff Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Do not risk ruining your track work by using abrasives. It would be better to have multiple power-feed points than rely on fishplates and point blades. Unfortunately the curves do not have cutouts where you can add Hornby power feeds (TT8027 or 8028). Can you solder? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 (edited) The reason why you have power when top point is set to straight ahead, is the power has a route to the other side of the interruption on the lower point. As soon as you set the top point to turn out, its isolating properties break that power supply. Be careful with cleaning that you don’t bend the small contacts on the point. This is where adding an additional power feed to the right side would be a plus. Even with good conductivity, if you open both points as it is now the section to the right will become isolated @dBerriff makes excellent comment on abrasives, water will loosen PVA and you can wipe it away with a cotton bud, IPA would be helpful too. Investing in a soldering iron is worth it in this hobby, so useful. Edited May 1 by Rallymatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taunmarc88 Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 Thanks for the quick responses guys, I’ve tried a few of the quick things you advised and the point has responded - I have to really push the point into position for the power to run through it but then it will. Just flicking it is not enough for contact to be made. I think this has proven to me that I do need another power supply to the other curve as you all have suggested. I do not have a soldering iron yet nor have I tried it since school but I’m more than willing to do so as I’ll need it for future larger layouts anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dBerriff Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Do not rush into soldering track droppers or feeders. Ask for advice here, watch YouTube videos and practice on old track before committing to the real thing. There is nothing overly difficult about soldering but you do need to get a few things right. I have chosen to stick with Hornby track for my first TT:120 layout so I can let you know what works for me. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 18 minutes ago, dBerriff said: I have chosen to stick with Hornby track for my first TT:120 layout so I can let you know what works for me. Ditto. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taunmarc88 Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 @dBerriff It will take a while to get the bits I need but I’d love some pointer or links to videos you think are really worth watching. It’s surprising how many experts do things differently even down to track cleaning so I’d love to be pointed in the better directions first. Now, it’ll take longer to get together but is this the time to be thinking of getting a better controller? I’ve seen a walkabout one from gaugemaster or they do double track ones (I’m thinking the second could be for an extension or even for future layout). I’m just thinking if I’m soldering can that still be compatible with my starter controller or do I need to go the whole hog now. Thanks for all your advice, always appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 A lot of DC layouts run a power bus similar to DCC practice just for the extra reliability. A decent soldering Iron can be bought for £20-30. Already mentioned is watch some tutorials, there is an excellent starter guide here on main section. The trick is good kit, the right temp (300-350 for most model railway stuff) get surfaces clean and practice practice practice on stuff that’s not important. You will very soon pick it up and it’s very satisfying to do these things yourself. Both the Peco and Hornby TT Track solders well, I make a light pass on the underside of the tail with a fine file, I use a dab of flux and ‘tin’ the rail, ‘tin’ the wire and then bring to two together and with iron and they will take every time without melting any sleepers. Quick dab with IPA to clear a flux residue. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 If you follow Rallymatt's advice about soldering you should be great. Always use separate flux even with prefluxed core solders. You can clean the track with a small block of Balsa wood, it's cheap, kinder to the track than a rubber, slightly absorbant for oils etc and it won't damage paintwork like IPA. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taunmarc88 Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 Thanks both that’s good advice. I’ve just watched Chadwick model railways video on soldering so I understood what you were saying about tin the wire and flux so now I’ll get to looking into getting the bits together. I’m starting from scratch so my tool box is bare of anything useful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 You don't need to spend a fortune on tools, my latest soldering iron came from Lidl and it's perfectly OK, just bought some wire strippers too from there, they'll do for what I need. Should the time come you can always buy better (more expensive) stuff later. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 A soldering iron you can alter temperature on is really helpful and usually a good sign is half decent. A cleaning pad for the soldering iron is a must too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 'A cleaning pad for the soldering iron is a must too.' DO NOT under any circumstances use your trouser leg to clean the tip like I usually do with my paintbrushes after rinsing them in water😵💫 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dBerriff Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Non-leaded solder is now the norm and many will tell you it is nothing but trouble. I have seen excellent results using non-leaded but it does need a hotter iron. Antex irons seem to work ok and it is easy get replacement bits for them. I have a "made-in-China" temperature controlled model and that works well but I don't have high expectations for its longevity. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moawkwrd Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 Same, I upgraded my soldering iron a couple months ago to a Yihua branded model with temperature control and its miles better than my old cheapo one. It takes the same tips as Hakko etc too. Think it was £30-40. Regarding DC controllers - definitely worthwhile investing in something better than the Hornby one included with the sets. If you want a handheld one you’ll be looking at the likes of the Combi, or Model W but that requires an AC transformer so I’d go with either the Combi or Model D (non handheld) to make life simpler. You can pick either up on eBay for less £50 and still benefit from the lifetime guarantee too. On your point power issue - I’m actually experiencing something similar with my points that were painted and ballasted and since removed and cleaned and relaid - on some I have to hold the blades against the rail to maintain the power. I need to do some more cleaning I think. Could also be that the blades have bent out of shape slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taunmarc88 Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 @moawkwrd I still have to really push to engage the points but I did try to lightly bend them and I think it has helped. I still have two points to go and I will be much more careful with those that’s for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taunmarc88 Posted May 4 Author Share Posted May 4 The track in the front short siding is now dead, not from the points but actually where one R6 curve meets the straight piece. It worked okay a few days ago but now even the long locos will not go into the siding past the curve piece. I’ve tried cleaning the track but that doesn’t seem to be it. Not sure what to do, it’s already ballasted. I'm starting to think I wouldn’t ballast in this method again, it seems to cause a lot of problems (but that may be my technique?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew-372848 Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 Try applying some pressure on the fishplates at that joint with a screwdriver or similar, they may have lost contact during the ballasting process. I had one siding where connectivity appeared ok when measured, but the weight of a loco passing over the joint was enough to lose contact. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taunmarc88 Posted May 4 Author Share Posted May 4 @Andrew-372848 Thanks I’ll try that when I get home from work. I’m hoping it can be sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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