How do I add a Removable Flap to my Layout

[Neil1944]

I have just started my first train track, Iam a wheelchair user and require info for the possability to make a flap in track  so i can get in and out of round circuit

Edited May 21 by RDS
More meaningful Title

[SteveM6]

There are many useful articles for new builders on this link.

https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Layout_Building.html

[RDS]

Hello Neil and welcome to the Forum. 

I would suggest that we change the title of your thread which will give others the chance to help you and an idea of what help you require.

Maybe something like 'How do I add a removable flap to my layout'

I (or one of the other Moderators) can do this for you if you wish

[Neil1944]

6 hours ago, Neil1944 said:

I have just started my first train track, Iam a wheelchair user and require info for the possability to make a flap in track  so i can get in and out of round circuit

 

6 hours ago, Neil1944 said:

I have just started my first train track, Iam a wheelchair user and require info for the possability to make a flap in track  so i can get in and out of round circuit

how do I add a removable flap to my layout

[What About The Bee]

Hello @Neil1944

A completely removable plate is certainly do-able.

In order for it to function properly, you need to consider a few basics.  Geometry, registration and power distribution.

The geometry consideration is one of being able to remove the plate and replace it all whilst maintaining the level before the plate, the plate and after the plate.   That is, you have a dead flat plate that straddles two abutments, each of which are level with one another.  When the plate is placed onto to abutments, all three pieces are at the same level.  This ensures best running of your trains.

Plate flatness is readily achieved by making the plate a shallow box.  The large flat on top, and the four sides the shallow part out of some lumber.  Take the time to ensure the sides are all the same height.  You want a rectangular box, not a twisted pretzel.

Getting the two abutments co-planar is a matter of spanning the gap with a spirit level and shimming here and there until the level reads parallel to the horizon, no matter where you place it on the abutments.  Take your time, get this step perfect.

I suspect you will need at least a 6 foot spirit level, or perhaps even 8 foot long, so as to span a gap for your wheelchair.  You want the level to sit on the surfaces of the abutments, not just the edge.  Assume the gap is 3½ feet (I cannot know your requirement, but only guess) then you need at least a foot on either side of that gap.  Better with 2 feet on each side.

With the abutments coplanar, span the gap again with the spirit level.  This time, however, we are to bring the top surface of the plate even with the top surface of the abutments.  We are using the level merely as a straightedge. You will need some method of temporarily holding the plate to the spirit level, for example clamps.   Two straight edges are better than one for holding the plate in position.

You will then fix two additional boards UNDER THE PLATE to the abutments, such that the plate is fully supported from either abutment.  The clamps and spirit levels can be removed.  The plate is supported by the two boards you just added.

At this point, the geometry is complete.  You can lift the plate out and replace it.  The horizontal nature of the three surfaces is maintained.  The coplanarity is maintained.

It is important to note that the gaps between the plate and the abutments should be as tight as you can make them and still remove and replace the plate.  The tracks that sit on top of the plate must meet the tracks on each abutment, and your locomotive must cross the gap.  Accuracy here will reap reward.

The next part is registration.  How to keep the tracks on the plate in alignment with the tracks on the abutments, side to side.  One solution (there are many others) is to use tapered pins on the plate that slide into a tapered holes on the abutments. One on each side of the plate.  When both slide home, the plate is now fixed from side to side and due to the previous geometry, the plate is coplanar with the abutments.  

Voila, a plate that you can take completely out and replace in the same exact position.  

Next, Lay your track.  Most run their tracks across the gaps, fixing the track by the gap firmly.  Then cut the track at the gap.  

Finally you must bring power to the track.  There should be a connector, like a molex connector (or similar) which will bring power from the rest of the layout to your tracks on the plate.

~~~~~~~

You should take your time and enjoy the process.  This is all part of the benchmark you must design and consider.  Its really just a bit of specialized bench work.  I urge you to really think about what we are trying to achieve and not just blindly follow this advice.  If something is unclear (goals, methods, tools, etc) just ask.  This is non-trivial.

Oh, and Welcome Aboard!! 

Bee

PS: this is for a REMOVABLE flap.  If you would like a hinged flap, there are different considerations.  Think about which way you would like to go.

Edited May 21 by What About The Bee
Postscript added

[96RAF]

Mine has a slide out section, due to it carrying twin tracks at two levels. This makes it too heavy and too difficult to either lift out or hinge up.

Another consideration of the hinged flap is to have it swing like a gate, but in any case the overriding consideration is exact track alignment when the section is in place and some form of locking is recommended.

There are various ways of getting power to the section but again thought must be given to isolating the section and enough track either side of it when it is open to prevent train cliff diving.

[Neil1944]

thank you

[ntpntpntp]

As well as the great advice on here, also search youtube for something like "model railway hinged flap" and you'll find ways of constructing vertically hinged flaps, horizontal (gate) style, fully removable etc.

[Moccasin]

Depending on precise manoeuvring needs, I think you’d need a width of about 1m/3 ft?

If it’s a simple baseboard structure, one option would be to just have a simple lift-out section resting on ledges either side with some form of electrical contact beneath (which could be formed by metal pins/brass dowels) to locate the section accurately?

Edited May 21 by Moccasin

[Moccasin]

something like this - with the lift-out section made as light as possible and track feeds soldered to the metal pins/dowels (2 each side) which slot into holes drilled into the ledges (better aligned than shown!). various solutions are mentioned in baseboard advice that allow alignment and electrical contact to be combined.

 

Edited May 21 by Moccasin

[Rallymatt]

Developing on the removable board like @Moccasin illustrated, there are some very clever expanding hinges available, used in kitchens and on some windows, that could allow the removable section to lift up and over the fixed sections. It might be easier to use whilst seated and mean you don’t have to try and suspend any weight for lining up etc. 

[What About The Bee]

Hi @Neil1944

The real railways sometimes have a similar requirememt, to have a removable section of track.  They use Railway Lift Bridges (images).

Since in real life, there is not a man alive that can manually lift the section, it is done mechanically.  

If done properly, you would press a button, and the lift section would go up.  You would then enter or exit the railway.  Press another button, the lift section goes down into perfect alignment.  No fiddling around with toggles, pins, etc.  No strength requirements.  Just two buttons, up/down.  

If the railways can do it, so can you.

Bee

 

[RDS]

That's not a bad idea WATB. 

Something readily available in a car breakers yard (if you can find one) that could be adapted, like a Car Boot Mechanism maybe.

[What About The Bee]

Hi RDS

Lionel made one for O scale.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/296278731637

While likely not raising the bridge high enough, nor wide enough for a human, the concept is fairly straightforward.

Something to think about

Bee

Edited May 21 by What About The Bee
Spelling

[Deem]

Can't find the link I wanted to share, maybe in the morning I will have better luck to find and then share.

Quite interesting how this modeler have done things.

 

 

Found it, please see

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FqYC3NSk1wU&pp=ygUebW9kZWwgcmFpbHdheSBsaWZ0IG91dCBzZWN0aW9u

Edited May 21 by Deem

[ntpntpntp]

Quite neat, I like the positive "click" from the door catches.  I must admit as soon as I saw he'd tried to use those sprung power contacts I thought they'd be trouble in terms of pressure, so not surprised to learn he abandoned them other than for alignment.  

[atom3624]

Agreed.  Nice video and relatively simple solution.

Al.