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Worm gear puller recommendations ?


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Hi does anyone have a good worm gear puller than can recommend ?

I bought one a while back, and went to use it for the first time today, it made of cheese as it bent the removal plate and didn't even shift the worm which appears to be fused on !

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I have several I've accumulated over the years.  My favourite for small work such as N gauge worms and gears is a Walkera W010 set (often sold for RC helicopters and similar).  There are usually plenty of them available online, some come boxed others are just loose parts in a bag but they are the same set.   I also have one from Expo Tools which is probably a bit more robust but I've not tried it. My others are old ones from GW Models but it's nearly always the Walkera which comes out. 

Some worms are indeed very firmly fitted. On a couple of occasions I've given up trying to remove intact to transfer to something else, and simply sourced a new part.

Edited by ntpntpntp
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My experience and strictly my experience, others may had/have better luck. None of them works other than if you removing plastic worms from spindle of the Motor. Any brass worms or Flywheels won't budge until you heat them with some thing i.e. blow torch or any other source of heat, then they will come easily off, even with cheap Chinese knock off. I hope this will help.

I have this from china and looks very decent quality but I have not used it:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004790203185

Edited by Deem
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@Deem that one looks the same as a Walkera set.   I have managed to transfer brass worms and flywheels using the Walkera set.

I do agree that sometimes a bit of heat is necessary when dealing with a brass worm on a steel shaft, but of course in some situations you could end up destroying whatever the shaft is attached to 😞 

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Extracting a steel shaft from a brass worm will require quite a bit of force to overcome the retarding frictional force of the interference fit.

That is, the ID of the worm is typically 0.002" (50 um) smaller than the OD of the shaft.  In this way, the torque of the motor can be applied to the gear to gear interface without the motor shaft slipping.  It also happens to be the most economical way to do it as well.

Most gear pullers in this size will not have the material strength (Youngs Modulus of Elasticity) to resist deformation and bending.  The puller reaches yield and bends like a pretzel, unable to overcome the extraction force necessary.

If all you want to do is save the brass worm, then applying heat primarily to the worm will expand the worm relative to the steel shaft.  The motor is likely burnt out anyway.  It cannot get anymore burnt out than it is.

Bee

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I bought a model aircraft propeller puller. The trouble with most pullers is their jaws are too thick to fit behind the worm. I did at one point use a 5 pence coin with a slot cut in it fitted into a normal puller.

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I have one I got from TramFabrique, they list on eBay too. They also sell replacement narrow diameter shafts. Thermal expansion rate of Brass V Steel means heating a brass worm gear will release it from steel shaft quite easily. I have a gas soldering iron that I use for small localised heating jobs. Just remove the tip to expose the gas flame. Other option with a dead motor is pop in the oven for 15 mins @200 degC, a heat proof mitt required! If a locking compound was used, that will release with these temps too. 

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I have three, one I bought from a model railway exhibition years ago and is specially made for Tri-ang armatures. It works perfectly without heat but is a bit flimsy and I have since bought two others, both off eBay. One is rubbish, the other works quite well and came with two different diameter screws, I have also used it to get stubborn wheels off axles. I can’t get to them at the moment but will post a photo later if I get the chance. 

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21 minutes ago, Rallymatt said:

I have one I got from TramFabrique, they list on eBay too. They also sell replacement narrow diameter shafts.

Sven's offering is basically the Walkera set I've mentioned above, but it's good to know he also offers alternative diameter pins.

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Here are mine as mentioned previously:
Expo Tools with two sizes of pin.
GW Models with different sizes of pin (one of the bodies I've widened the slot)
Walkera W010 boxed set.  This is the one I use the vast majority of the time 🙂

IMG_7330.JPG

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8 minutes ago, Brew Man said:

If you guys rate it I might get one.

It's certainly my "go-to" tool unless the wheel or worm I'm trying to remove won't fit within the body, in which case the Expo tool suits better. 
You can get similar tools to the Walkera set cheaper on ebay, AliExpress etc.  I think mine was less than £10 but I've had it some years now.

Edited by ntpntpntp
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Mine are similar if not the same as ntpntpntp’s. The rectangular one shown with an X04 in the working position is the one I got from an exhibition for Tri-ang motors but you do have to be careful with it as it is a bit flimsy but works perfectly if you are careful. The Anchor one looks to be a copy or re-brand of the Expo one, I suspect a copy as it was very cheap. It is actually very good IF there is sufficient room to get it behind the worm/wheel or the axle diameter is sufficiently small to fit which isn’t always the case. I can’t find the other but it’s no great loss as it’s rubbish and was a waste of money. 

IMG_0039.jpeg

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16 minutes ago, ColinB said:

I found the blade that it pulls against was a bit too thick to go behind the gear on my ones.

The plate on mine has slots on either end, one end is thinner than the other. 
IMG_7332.thumb.JPG.9814924cfffeac11fcf727d31efd718d.JPG

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9 minutes ago, ntpntpntp said:

The plate on mine has slots on either end, one end is thinner than the other. 
IMG_7332.thumb.JPG.9814924cfffeac11fcf727d31efd718d.JPG

Yes exactly the same as mine, I do remember it being an issue. In the end I filed down a 5 pence coin with a slot in it, to fit in between the jaws. Perhaps my gears were pushed on tighter, I do remember I had no end of issues with it.

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