nashjuk Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 I know this is way below some of the questions on the forum, but i have bought the set today from an auction without instructions. How , where do i plug the cables in? What are these little black items (see photos). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 Hi @nashjuk Welcome Aboard! No one is born knowing how to do this, we all learned how. You can too! To answer your questions The red connector, labeled A B slides in between the sleepers of the track, the copper on top of the red makes contact with the underside of each rail. The battery controller takes TWO 5 volt lantern batteries. The springs on top of the batteries slide into the grooves on the underside of the battery controller. The long rectangular pieces clip on top of the sleepers. These are so you can decouple the locomotive from the cars. But instead of reading about this, why not watch Mr. Snooze show you exactly how! https://youtu.be/hUQBU9FzEq4 Its not the same locomotive, but the controller set up is. When you get tired of buying batteries, you can use a controller powered from mains. We can help with that. The most important thing is to have fun!! Bee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Bee has nailed it with his answer. Nothing more to add. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Coming from you Fishy, that's high praise. Thank you Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 I’m not sure if that’s version 1 of the system 6 track, do the end sleepers interlock? The track also needs a good clean (I can see the muck on the photos) otherwise you will get running problems. Use a cloth with IPA or a track cleaning rubber to give it a good wipe over the surface, don’t use sandpaper as it is coated steel and if you damage the coating it’ll rust ridiculously quickly. Some people recommend using a small square of hardboard to rub on the surface but I have never tried it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nashjuk Posted August 13 Author Share Posted August 13 Thanks, all watched the video, i think i am missing some straight sections. Also need to sort the battery connections as per the video also. May have to sell this on and try a modern (more expensive) version. What is IPA? (Indian Pale Ale?) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellocoloco Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 IPA is Isopropyl alcohol. Look for 99%. It is great for all sorts of cleaning applications. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Battery on the right needs to be rotated 180°. Its backwards. Nashjuk, if you like the locomotive, then the price of some track pieces and a DC controller (to get away from the batteries) is going to be far less than a new set, which will include a new locomotive. In other words, the expensive bit of kit is the locomotive, followed by the carriages and wagons. A DC controller and track pieces are much more reasonable, provided you do not go nuts with track. Bee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Hi @nashjuk To get you started, here is a link to HORNBY TRACK. Unfortunately, I can not pre-filter it for you. Select the "filter" tab, then "Gauge" and "OO". TT:120 track will not work with your locomotive. Its for a smaller gauge than your locomotive. There's lots of guys doing TT:120. Its a new and exciting scale. Lots of new guys getting on board too. Check out the TT:120 sub forum to see what it is about. You may like it better! Bee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nashjuk Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 Is this the correct controller to go for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelerXYZ Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Thats the one, but be sure to get the P9000 transformer with it too. XYZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LTSR_NSE Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 @nashjuk personally I’d be wary of that controller… it is really only designed for modern 0-4-0 train sets & the ringfield motor in your older 1970s loco could be a little too much for it! Your loco would respond better to either a Hornby HM2000 or one of the Gaugemaster controllers etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Hi LT&SR_NSE What is the current draw of a 1970s locomotive? Here is what @The son of Triangmanhas to say https://community.hornbyhobbies.com/forums/topic/8858-a-helpful-guide-average-current-draw/?do=findComment&comment=122374 So, the answer is: it varies. It could be under, it could be over 500 milli amps. I believe the P9000 is rated at 500 milli amps. @nashjukDo you have a multimeter? We can measure the current draw using the batteries as the supply and insure that the controller you buy is sized to your locomotive Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LTSR_NSE Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Completely agree with the multimeter test, however it isn’t just about the transformer rating, the controller itself has a thermal cutout which appears to be far more sensitive! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 12 hours ago, nashjuk said: Is this the correct controller to go for. I have H&M Duette spare, I think it might be just the correct controller (more experienced modeller can confirm) and should handle your loco quite easily. I can post it to you if you would like this controller. Please contact me through private Message. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 Hi Deem The H&M Duette was rated at 1 amp, so should easily handle anything on Son of Triangman's marvelous list of 1970s current draw. Do you know how old your Duette is? Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 Please see the pictures of actual controller 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nashjuk Posted August 17 Author Share Posted August 17 Where does this go. I have no instructions and no knowledge whatsoever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelerXYZ Posted August 17 Share Posted August 17 hold up a peice of track to the light. Between the sleepers and the rail there will be a pair of holes. Push the prongs of the power clip into the holes between the sleeper and rail. XYZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted August 17 Share Posted August 17 A picture is worth 1000 words Bee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nashjuk Posted August 18 Author Share Posted August 18 My nephews friend is a model railwayer and has taken on the clean, testing for me. I will get there with it, just need a shunt. Thanks for the help. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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