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What's on your workbench?


81F

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've a 2-tone green Bachmann Class 47, which is definitely in the top 10 of my favourite locos - looks and performance, except I noticed it wasn't as smooth as it should be over 'express points' and further investigation showed pick-up from one bogie only despite being 12 wheel drive.

Bachmann confirmed it should pick-up from both bogies.

 

I found a YT video of how to remove the body - let someone else damage theirs to see what not to do, etc., then removed the body.

 

Bachmann have a system of clips which push over wires slotted into the contact holes of the PCB, and 1 clip was missing, letting a pick-up wire fall out.

 

Super easy fix, in theory once I get my hands on another clip.

I've asked for a couple - let's see what they say.

 

I was going to solder it but I'd have to be really careful to avoid excess and a short.

 

Al.

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After that PCB soldering I did on the Pendolino I decided to bite the bullet and solder the wire on the 47.

As there's a hole in the contact for the wire, and it's 2-3 mm off the ZAMAK weight moulding there's a serious risk of a possible drip and short.

Performed quickly at adequate temperature - I set it at 400C (!!) as the PCB, it soldered well and quickly with no problems - then covered with a blob of 'liquid insulation tape'.

 

Whilst the top was off I decided to oil a little and grease where accessible.

The 47 now has both bogies picking up current and runs better than ever!!

Al.

 

The Class 

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I seem to have a black 5 problem! They seem to be multiplying and on is turning into a Capirott 

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I love all of these '5's!!

I remember as a lad in the 70's going to Carnforth to see the 5's and Sir Nigel ...

That's one A4 I still haven't got - needs to be blue with no splashers to be correct 'for my memories'.

Al.

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The 47 was on track-cleaning duty this morning whilst I was 'getting up, washed, ready ...'

Crawling around for 1 hour - perhaps a scale 25-30 mph so not too slow and absolutely perfect!!

 

Now to finally sort out the Super Voyager!!

I'd received a couple of drive cups off Bachmann and was told there's no need to open up the bogie sides - THERE IS!!

You'll never get the alignment right for the long driveshaft if you don't - so rather than get frustrated, I put it back down and turned the TV on!!

 

Al.

 

Al.

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Had to look that one up, and didn't recognise it as an A4 - which it wasn't really ....

When Googled, the image of the model in original format is fantastic.

Answer of course, NO - and that would certainly exceed £200, and the rest to get a model of that!!

Keep it quiet 'though ... Ho! Ho!

 

Stop press - just 'won' a SNG - 70 year 'limited edition' - and I said I'd stop!

 

As you gathered, I'm happy with the Class 47 repairs - to get the thread back on track.

 

I think I'll open up the Super Voyager bogie and ensure the cup is properly seated - drive cup was broken and replacements received from Bachmann, with thanks. That's my main project for the weekend - no reason why it cannot run perfectly.

 

Al.

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Do have have Pegasus in your A4 collection Atom3624?

Looks like I admire A4's as much as Coronations - another has been added to the list as well ... !!!

 

I like the rebuilt BR look, had a 60022 rebuilt tender drive Mallard way back when - 40 years ago actually - so have just 'won' a 'Super Detail' rebuilt Guillemot.

 

Al.

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Back to the bench ....

 

An ongoing saga I've had - and the seller had been very gracious - gave options of rebate or part refund.

I took the latter and decided to repair the Super Voyager.

 

It's been 'one bogie drive' since purchase - with rattles!!

The rattles have been the driveshaft for one side which was loose, and one bogie's drive cup - in 2 pieces.

 

I'd bought 2 cups off Bachmann not being certain of my repairing skills, and also a complete used bogie off that auction site - just in case.

 

I was advised there's no need to take the bogie apart, simply push in - not happening.

An overnight 'flash of inspiration' decided it's obvious I'll have a better chance splitting the bogie. Perhaps I 'practice' and even use the worm, bushes, shaft and cup from the 'spare' bogie - removing was easy, then I recognised the bushes were squared - didn't help me having greased up as I got covered placing into the bogie.

 

I repositioned everything, took care to ensure the pick-up blades were where they should be, replaced the dogbone / driveshaft / cardan drive / whatever thingy and off I go - spits it out immediately!!

Naughty words!!

I repositioned - it spat it out again.

I thought I'd ensure the replacement cup was inserted and perhaps not push it on as far as the donor shaft / cup - replaced all and - spat it out again ... 

 

I'm normally quite patient in these matter, 'though I'm typically very spontaneous - read impatient!!

I tried positioning the dogbone further into the cup, and ... it pushed in further with a click!!

The bogie dogbone / cup end is used to locate the driveshaft - clever Bachmann ... all SEEMS to be working, now to break it in.

It's oiled up and bogies are both well greased.

Seems to be running well. Fairly fast - for a Bachmann 'though not as fast as the HST and Pendolino.

I think it's time to reassemble - I'm feeling positive again!!

 

Al.

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Looking at lights for my Class 43/253 HST...

 

For starters I have no interest in prototypical day/night light combos. I.e. markers and one side head. All I want is white to fore, red to aft.

 

At present there is a single bulb (arrowed below) behind the light housing which glows generally yellow across the whole light assy when lit.

 

I think the lights on this early version should show individual white and red as marked on the RHS of the picture below. I do not want to rework the lights to have the modern twin lens arrangment.

 

I have dual red/white leds to fit and for simplicity of conversion wondered if a compromise could be acceptable whereby the led shone into the plastic prism to show generally white or red across the lamp housing when lit as opposed to exactly white or red behind each lens.

 

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PS - class numbering.... 253 005 on the front but 43 010 on the sides. Why?.

 

Rob

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Nice project Rob.

 

Please keep us updated of progress.

 

I had another project.

One of my favourite locomotives - real and model - is the 71000 DoG.

It seems more Railroad than 'Super Detail' when looking at the versions available but is still pretty decent and does have some glazing - unusual for Railroad.

Main problem with the DoG is the £0.05 3-pole motor - polite as possible, it could be a bit beefier!!

 

Turns out the Pendolino motor is a 100% perfect fit.

I had to get a worm puller - 2 actually as the first couldn't slot in close enough!

 

Not really necessary, but I decided to replace the brass flywheel.

It was finally geared, flywheeled and wired up, and runs VERY nicely now!! BIG difference.

 

Al.

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 @ RAF96

 

Hi Rob

 

Re nos on HSTs. I'm not 100% certain but I do know the early HST set numbers were applied to the nose - the 43xxx was the side number - 43007/43008 set no 253 004, 43009/43010 set no 253 005 etc.. This use of set nos on the nose didn't last long due to the difficulty of keeping 2 units together when only one had a defect. For a period some powercars had the side no also on the nose. 

 

Not 100% certain, as I said at the start, but logical, given the known facts.    😀

 

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Al

I will make note of that against DoG in my motor database.

Rob

Rob, you're welcome.

It really is a 100% perfect fit - length and mouldings each end - diameter and shape - no changes whatsoever required - and it goes like stink - just like the Pendolino!!.

 

Al.

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  • 3 weeks later...

No major work, just working on a little extra 'detailing painting' of my LMS Duchess of Sutherland to bring it 'up to date' - yes, CRIMSON LAKE is BACK on DoS!!

FANTASTIC!!

Nearly as I remember it next to 6100 (Crimson Lake as well) Royal Scot at Bressingham Steam Gardens!!

Excellent - looks much nicer.

OK, when I saw it it was running without smoke deflectors - which I really like as well, even if it's a tad impractical.

Al.

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Load of my stuff awaiting attention at present and no time to do the work at present, it keeps stacking up.  The class 31's for instance are complete restorations with new(good used) trailing bogies needing fitting.

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After painting the Duchess of Sutherland's links to match the preserved, I decided I'd have a go at the R3336  'previous preserved NRM' Flying Scotsman.

 

All photos indicate bright - steel probably - links, not black - photo shows it worked 100% and matches the hinges and clamp on the smokebox door.

More 'original' but I agree, it's too bright so might 'dull' here and there.

 

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One thing I've noticed is the front tender 'hoop' onto which the canvas rain sheet would attach is high relative to the cab. It's the same for all R3336 photos found on Google, so it's a Hornby oversight.

Can't see a way to remedy it without major surgery on the tender which I've no intention of doing.

Lids on both locomotive (had been removed for grease and oiling) and tender (had been removed to add weight) are 100% correctly placed with nothing jamming / forcing.

 

I'll live with it, but the cab should be higher / tender hoop should be lower - by ~0.5 mm !!

 

Al.

 

PS  I cropped the photo as a rectangle to 'force' the rotation of the image - hopefully it's worked - looks like it when I uploaded!!

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I don't see why not Rob, I used dual red and white leds to light the prism on my HST some time ago.  No pics alas as I sold it a few months ago at a goodly profit which enabled me to buy two more sets one of which is boxed mint at a car boot.

It worked well on my CL395 so I will give it a go on the HSTs, although I do like the simple versatility and price of the Black Kat HST units recommended earlier versus the expensive Express Models offering. Unfortunately not enough time to order them in before I decamp back to the sunshine.

Rob

PS - looks like one of my go-faster stripes has slipped on the red lit car.

 

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Inspired by the news that 6233 Duchess of Sutherland is back in service, and repainted as she should be, I 'added a little paint and detail' to mine - not the most professional but I'm quite pleased with the outcome.

 

I think she looks great!!

(Speedo cable strangely snapped in 2 during the process but Peters were fast to deliver a replacement - duly fitted.)

 

See what you think.

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I used a couple of the lamps from 'Bude's detail pack and painted them ~Crimson Lake (it's supposed to be but I had to 'adjust' a little!!) and painted some of the pipework.

Al.

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