Jimbo1707820979 Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Dramatic photos ! Congratulations, Atom.Yesterday I removed 2 Hornby power rails R8241 which I thought looked rather ugly on the layout. Instead I used the fishplates with ready soldered-on wires for power from the controller. Virtually invisible and only needing 2 very small holes drilled through the baseboard directly under the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellocoloco Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Just replaced split gears on an Electrotren 594 - a lovely model but the drive system is over stressed as a result of keeping the motor (and any signs of running gear) below window height./media/tinymce_upload/4a092481623ab4b859ca1e0b58c6950e.jpgA quite fiddly part that will replace the plastic original. Its slightly noisier than before, as its now brass on brass rather than a plastic gear onto a worm screw. It does move on its own though - a success! /media/tinymce_upload/5c7b71ab41102a4f6381f6d4fd8921f5.jpgWith a bit of luck I won't have to do that again........................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Thanks JP.It was one of those 'surprise' locomotives - looks better than you'd expect, and a little more detailing brings it up close to the real thing. The DoS I remember didn't have blinkers on - at Bressingham - and looked a beast!!Royal Scot looking quite small alongside, and even Oliver Cromwell - quite a collection they had there!! Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/1d006f6f702372ce50f5538abfb5ed3e.JPG My LIMA 94XX is currently in bits. Even with a new neomagnet the thing is totally uncontrolable so I've bought one of those CD motor remotoring kits. However, as I do not like the idea of gluing the motor in and think centring it will be difficult I am developing a 3D mounting ring for it. My first attempt was a good snug fit on the CD motor but rattled around in the old Lima mount so I've redesigned it and am providing lugs so that it can be screwed into the loco chassis if all lines up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 Received a used 46100 Royal Scot yesterday.Condition seems excellent but it's one of 'those', with many questions ...The flexible link which bolts onto the wheel crank was disconnected. When I asked why the vendor, apparently owner not simply a shop, didn't know .... When I removed the lid, to grease and oil, I found out it had a chip in it. I've read, depending on setting that this is just fine, and they can run DC, but I wanted to play safe, and removed it. I replaced with a blanking plate I had from the 'Pendolino affair' I had a couple of months back ... When I tested it, it works perfectly, so it appears 'job done' there. When received:/media/tinymce_upload/ac24a406151c4bd8ee5c53c2da5164cc.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/eab991c2f5eea2d0c3e987ab4ac2be42.jpgI noticed the 'arrowhead' smokebox door clamp had disappeared. Looking closer at the original photos from the vendor, it wasn't there previously ... not a problem.Also, much of the 'detailing' hasn't been added ... This is as it is now ... did a bit of work last night ... looking good, but it appears the vacuum pipe 'dropped' a little overnight - I like them flush against the buffer beam, which is how I had left it ... easy, if potentially brutal fix!!/media/tinymce_upload/2cd39be455c6e370b24fb1374ec0bcba.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/200f9020c8a5fe0f3a2502fe2a6b4317.jpg Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted September 30, 2018 Share Posted September 30, 2018 Arrowhead smokebox door clamp looked fine in brass but I wanted to go for the 'steel' look - unfortunately a bit of 'creep' ocurred under the masking.Thought I'd play safe and mask around, then brushed painted - which 'ccrept' under the masking ... !!Angry face!!Decided would remove the clamp, mask off the number plate, shed plate and wherever spray may go (worked OK, no problems here) but when removed, part of the shed plate came off.I have loads of plate transfers - not sure of location, but for me at the moment, its effect rather than absolute specifics - and a new plate is on. Mount is being glued in position ready for the handles - might be able to use the old ones which were painted - we'll see. Not a disaster, but delaying and annoying. One of the 'it happens, never mind, move on' situations ... Still looks great. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Got as far as writing up an article as I was converting my pair of Class 43 HSTs to TTS sound and incorporating other improvements to them. See - http://myweb.cytanet.com.cy/honnor/page18.htmlPlease note the article is still work in progress as is the actual work on the pair of locos. The article may be of use to others with HST conversions in mind.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Al, do you mean the darts. Why did you need to mask anything, just use a very small brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/653fc4db2a2f08fc966b82f6b3ea840b.jpgA little bit more than a renumber but not much of a conversion - GWR 3265."Tre Pol and Pen" The Prototype dukedog from a Bachmann Version. Aside from adding the etched plates I have polished off GWR using brasso and will appy GREAT WESTERN to the tender and no 3265 to the buffer beam, added rain strips to the cab roof and sprayed out the copper chimney cap. The handrails on the cab sides should be lower but that would probably require a full repaint If you want to fit name plates to these I found rhe springs very useful, just apply a small drop of superglue gell behind the two ends that stick up above the splashers and push the lates in from behind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/5c67a38220d15107a46a9ba536605a70.jpgPlates finally added to my repainted 28XX. I chose 2818 simply because it was the only one I could find evidence for it retaining inside steam pipes and a straight frame long enough for it to possibly be painted into wartime black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 That looks great 81. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Postman Prat Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Well done - it looks really nice 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Looks so good ... it's easier to comment.The only thing I'd think, being a workhorse, and wartime is the GWR seems too bright ... doubtless something you'll be doing anyway. Looks great. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 We are talking about the GWR, not one of the minor companies. 😆 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 No comment!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 This mega rare beauty is in for clean and a restoration, full strip down to it's components and restoration is needed./media/tinymce_upload/168ee4c2f6fd506f95abe48f00b730a9.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 That'll be without magnadhesion won't it? I seem to remember my brother's Princess Victoria not having magnadhesion, and the solid drivers - as they are here - it was really old even in the early 70's, but did run well!!(Even if the body was a HO scaled length!!) Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 It is indeed good sir. A very special model too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony57 Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Hi M-R (SoT) Nice Loco you have there, are you going to do a pictorial blog on its restoration and repair back to a pristine condition please?One thing I love about old Triang is it use and modified use of a chassis, 0 6 0ts, 0 6 0 3f, 2 6 0 Davy Crockett, 2 6 2t 3MT all used the 0 6 0t chassis block. the Princess Elizabeth chassis was also used a the basis of several other 4 6 2 locos. Princess Class, Coronation class, Hiawotha, Britannia Class maybe early Flying Scotsman? As for Triang chassis blocks I do like the chassis made up of two long side plates with the two packing blocks that are screwed together they seam more like the real thing, having looked at real stripped down chassis at Ropley on the Mid Hants (Watercress) Line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 I will indeed do a step by step blog of it's restoration, Tony. The loco will be brought back to decent condition. Interchangeably of parts in the old range was definately a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Finally bit the bullet, got some matt black and decided to 'dust from the front' several locomotives.These photos don't do them effect justice, but I'm not adding more, for now.Patriot, Scottie and DoS ... there are more already done, including the recent Flying Scotsman and the Bachmann Apple Green Tornado./media/tinymce_upload/19107b98b478a31ae8b2eea386151c7a.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/68c5ac217b3a5592787138d72354afbc.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/a26554e1f3e7ce914f554579fe8ebcb7.jpgEarl of Mount Edgcumbe is more heavily 'smoked' and I'm very pleased with it. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted October 5, 2018 Author Share Posted October 5, 2018 Plates finally added to my repainted 28XX. I chose 2818 simply because it was the only one I could find evidence for it retaining inside steam pipes and a straight frame Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 Got a bit carried away with the spray can on the Earl, but kind of like it - I see endless photos of it hammering up and down the tracks, so could easily get covered .... Royal Scot is much lighter, but typical of photos I've seen of it, and particularly that series of it serving on the NYMR. Need to look at the wheels next ... and consider electrical contacts of course!! /media/tinymce_upload/c27543e7d476063b10f9f02e04ac15b1.jpg Together with Scottie .../media/tinymce_upload/b7eb5215e266abb72dcdd4c18cba50c6.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/7de9396c55c4b4fd29dd836a5a0a0f82.jpg Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 My 'distressing' time has continued - onto the BR rebuilt Coronations - Liverpool and Chester. Chester is much more heavily 'weathered' than Liverpool, and I also took the opportunity to detail some of the pipework - 'coppering' it with Tamiya copper paint - cap on the tin doesn't do the paint justice, it's fantastic!! /media/tinymce_upload/131c8108161193515de4392e65f5b7b4.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/ab0aa339ef940a1c7be4c9824054a8c3.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/b7f8bcd01ff6fdb7ef259875d586b6b8.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/d5a16dc8ffba5a767fee753ec29b7e9b.jpgI'm very pleased with the results. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 A couple of days ago, Hornby's 6223 streamlined Princess Alice arrived.The body is a moulded double chimney. I carefully drilled out the rear one - front is already done, rear chimney isn't, then set about some lighter weathering and crew, plus adding some weight. Turns out it's nowhere near as 'brand new' as advertised, but I have the missing parts to complete. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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