81F Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share Posted June 7, 2019 The chassis showing the large motor fitted to these early locos./media/tinymce_upload/9ee56eedc311c842011850cb896bd89e.jpgThat motor looks the same as the one in my Joeuf 231C pacific. A very fast and free running loco which took some driving before I learned when to cut the power so that I did not overshoot the platform! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 Lots of things to do but its chucking it down with rain and I am loath to going out in it to the train room. Looks like settle down with a train magazine for the afternoon Instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 81F, The motor in the D6100 is very similar to the one in the Playcraft pacific, and the early version of the 040 tank. The two steam locos have a version of the motor that is single ended with just a bearing at the other end and as you say, you have to learn to drive them as he gearing allows the loco to coast for a couple of meters if running at high speed once you turn off the power. The original version of the pacific has gearing to front and rear axles, a later version has gearing to just one set of wheels and the only one I have had was constantly going out of quartering as there was too much stain on it and the centre of the wheels are a push fit. I ended up replacing the chassis with an earlier one which works perfectly. An even later version is brown, has better scale wheels, a tender drivE and costs a lot more. These early motors are very good and were designed to run with battery power so reach high speed with just a few volts. The later version of their motor which replaced all the big can motors looks similar to an X04 and can be very good but I have had a few poor examples. They are now spare parts!. Later versions of the diesel and electric models also lost all wheel drive and the brass gears were replaced with rubbishy plastic ones, later Jouef mversions having rubber band drive which is rubbish, often slips/breaks and can be a lot of hassle to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 Only a temporary bench visit, fortunately, and VERY STRANGE - with a happy ending!! Decided I'd lift out one of my favourites, a Bachmann A2 'Blue Peter' - beautiful locomotive!! Had it facing off against my R3443 FS BR Green NRM. Whilst 'admiring' it, on rails on a bench alongside my 'TV sofa' watching the cricket, I noticed the front LHS locomotive steps on BP were missing!! I went back into the 'storage area', looked all around floors, and it's wooden box - NOTHING!! NOT HAPPY!! Then I remembered - some months ago, I'd had a set of steps from 'somewhere' in my work area, which I'd no idea where they'd come from .... PERHAPS ... Amazingly, I found them, and YES, they were indeed BP's steps!!Re-glued back onto her again - HAPPY DAYS!! Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LY shunter Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 Old Triang hopper wagon bought for £2/media/tinymce_upload/95e305c7c9917766f2c163846185fb5c.JPG After stripping paint with Mr Muscle oven cleaner/media/tinymce_upload/3951319ff1dccc72a1b70bda0bab446d.JPG After rebuilding with new wheels in new bearings and new couplingsadded vacuum pipes, vacuum cylinders and buffers.Still a fictional wagon with ficional company logo but I think it looks a lot better than original/media/tinymce_upload/937ca8ac88dcc1a43c002714ddc9e8a3.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony57 Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 Nice conversion.What couplings did you use and how did you attach them to the bogie? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LY shunter Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 On metal bogies I use Bachmann 36025 or 36026 couplingsOn plastic bogies I use Dapol couplingsI use peco hardlon bearings as these can be put in from the outsideI have a small milling machine so on some bogies I mill out a slot to lower the wagon and buffer hightOld triang wagons are made from a type of plastic that glues easily with MEK. /media/tinymce_upload/ca5c6ee2f0ab113e42a93f1aa93d039c.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/ad49f8c44372bbacdb02d1d181eadd1a.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 I have a Tri-ang R.59 2-6-2 BR 3MT on the bench at present, it came in to the workshop as a complete wreck for restoration, totally worn out. The puzzle is an as an when project. The loco is looking better now and is progressing as time permits. /media/tinymce_upload/2d227fee8b687fb9eb22a5a7305e22a2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 The couplings you use are a godsend, they can be fitted to just about anything with glue or a screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry50 Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 I've almost finished building my first baseboard from a youtube video. So at the moment, I've got a spirit level, some clamps and a bunch of these lock nuts that are left over:https://www.accu.co.uk/en/hexagon-nylon-locking-nuts/7950-HNN-M10-A2. I used the lock nuts for the angle brackets rather than the lock washers that were mentioned in the video because I already had some in my workshop. I originally planned to make a sturdy baseboard for under £30, but I ended up impulsively buying an Insize adjustable engineering square for over £100! But at least it will come in useful for other projects. Further down the line, I'm going to build another baseboard and connect them together somehow, what is the best way to fix them together please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 You can use pattern makers dowels for alignment and suitcase clamps to pull the modules together or just bolt the modules together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony57 Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 Hi l&y shunterCan I be cheeky and ask can you post a side on view of the coupling fixing onto a metal bogie please. The reason is I love Triang Transcon but I have a number of wagons with the MK2 (open loop) couplings which are in a poor state of repair, I would like to fit a more modern style of MK3 coupling or kaydee type, which is why I an interested in how you have fixed a new couplings I have been using brass top hat bearings to change the wheel sets on the Dummy A and B loco units. The wheel sets being Hornby 14.1 dia. disc sets. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 The motor is in the Tri-ang R.59 3MT, today's job is a remag for the motor and re-glazing for the coils and anvils, then correct paint colour and shade for the anvils. The anvils of the motor were orginally green. It runs but not happy with it, a bit noisy running forwards, a chassis block change is on the cards later today. The original block has too much wear so I will be fitting a good replacement. /media/tinymce_upload/787b7b7881e078949b6c2f6060a45388.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 Didn't that also have synchrosmoke? Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 It looks like one of the earlier chassis type that used the Princess cylinders and a screw down the chimney/funnel. The later version with the screw in front of the smokebox had a tube type smoke machine rather than syncrosmoke that went through the middle of the cylinder block. There may have been a later version with synchrosmoke. I think this is the only early loco that they made that you can quarter the wheels out of the chassis as there is a plastic/Bakelite base that holds the axles in place. I think the later chassis did away with this, I have a couple but have never had to dismantle them as they work fine. When set up properly I find these run really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 Impressed by the 'cheese cutters'!! Thanks for the clarifications on the smoking and vaping!! Any thoughts / need to consider reprofiling the flanges? Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 I just bought this off eBay as ‘untested’ as it is the only early Jouef/Playcraft loco i didn’t have. I have a couple of the later ones and even a clockwork one!. First thing I noticed was that as t had the fixed pantograph it should have had a motor bogie with an unbelievable number of gears on it and the trailing bogie just a dummy. So at some point this has had a replacement chassis. No problem as the bogies and motor are the same as the D6100 loco that was sold in the UK for which I have plenty of spares. Still, it would have been nice if it was original. Tried to power it up, nothing, no problem I have spare parts, opened it up.......NO MOTOR........ still no problem as I have a couple of spares. /media/tinymce_upload/2b518e13836a94ecf72e3970b6fa00e3.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/641b0a2253a011d86d1780b0939b2446.jpgSo I get one of my spare motors, different fitting bracket!!!!/media/tinymce_upload/e6bd938e6bc191d8bda1c417f436f4d0.jpgThe D6100 bracket has four holes, two of which take screws, the BB9200 has differently located pegs and no screws. The chassis is also a slightly different shape so I can’t just do a complete swap. My choice is now to re-drill the bracket or remove the pegs from the chassis and drill the plastic chassis to take two self tapping screws. I will probably choose the latter!Also, to run with my other Playcraft/Jouef stock it will need the PECO type couplings so at some point when I have time I will need to do a bogie swap with one of my spare D6100 chassis. I don’t have time today so this is a project for when I get time, nothing difficult in it. So do I feel let down by my purchase? Not really as I would have paid the little it cost me just to get the body which is in very good condition, although at the time I thought I could just drop it onto a D6100 chassis. Also, just for comparison here is the British version of the chassis alongside./media/tinymce_upload/a6a6926e8e7ae0f17347ec7509e33ddd.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/abbc07e9bde78f22f214afeaea4bc554.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 MR's R.59 BR standard 3mt is one of the early ones... The cylinder block with a hole for the Seuthe type smoke unit, from 1961, was a problem, as the hole weakens the cylinder block. Synchrosmoke was introduced to the range in 1964, but the R.59(S) was on a break from production, and it wasn't until 1969 that a Synchrosmoke fitted R.59S was introduced.It uses the smaller smoke unit, as in the R.52S Jinty, but with a long extension and cover plate, to reach the chimney. Sadly, the cylinder block was not retooled to loose the hole, so the weaker blocks remained...leading to more broken models. The same chassis was used in the German Style TC series Continental 2-6-2 tank loco, also from 1969. The very last R.59 locos, from around 1970 something, have the plated driving wheel tyres and ponytruck wheels with metal plated tyres... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 On our workbench lately.. Two of the 1970s R.258NS Princess Elizabeth's in LMS livery, with smoke and exhaust steam sound. Both have had a general overhaul, with new X.549 elements, and the tenders have had the sound box and contacts re built, and are now working well. One is a solo model in the box, the other is from the R.506 Train Set...we have the set rolling stock, but not the box, etc. Also serviced is the Tender Drive Princess Royal Class 46210, Lady Patricia, and the Princess Coronation City of Chester... Two China built Princess Elizabeth's, in LNS livery, but with BR overhead live wired warnings, so as preserved, have had general overhauls.One has been converted to DCC ready, with an 8 pin socket mounted on a cut down front weight. The other is lacking a tender at the moment... Both chassis have had repairs and fettling, as they have mild Mazak rot in small parts... Luckily not too severe. There has also been a Tender Drive 28xx, this has been checked over, as it has been replaced in the collection by a more recent DCC ready version. It will be passed on later. It had already been converted with an 8 pin DCC socket in the loco, and fitted with more recent China made loco pick ups and base plate.It has a DCC decoder fitted. The Tender Drive LMS 8f has also been replaced by a later model. This has not been modified as much as the 28XX, and will also be being passed on later... Lots to do still! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 Finished the motor rebuild today. The magnet wouldn't hold a remag properly so a replacement and then a remag worked wonders. /media/tinymce_upload/f1f97846485a24eb869e9725a9032848.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LY shunter Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 Hi l&y shunterCan I be cheeky and ask can you post a side on view of the coupling fixing onto a metal bogie please. The reason is I love Triang Transcon but I have a number of wagons with the MK2 (open loop) couplings which are in a poor state of repair, I would like to fit a more modern style of MK3 coupling or kaydee type, which is why I an interested in how you have fixed a new couplings I have been using brass top hat bearings to change the wheel sets on the Dummy A and B loco units. The wheel sets being Hornby 14.1 dia. disc sets. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 My Bachmann Pannier tank just got a loco crew - surprised me how easy it was to remove the body AND access the cab!! This close-up is perhaps 4x actual so exaggerates where it shouldn't, but you can see the line at the back of the cab where a couple of screws underneath permit you to remove the whole coal bunker!!Body came off easily enough as well, another surprise. /media/tinymce_upload/1e97176013bd9f62f1f2c30c00b500fb.jpg Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 Paint and Transfer work has started on the 3MT. The buffer beam and bunker need a little paint work, coal was glued into the bunker, a bit of freshen up will almost eradicate traces of the glue used to fix the coal. Original Tri-ang small lion riding wheel transfer has been used. /media/tinymce_upload/69b04a2e71be02a2d035d8b919d28f63.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 Looks very nice M-R. You are definitely getting the hang of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 You should get a set of etch brass number plates. It will transform the model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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