What's on your workbench?

[Rana Temporia]

I think the accident at the side of the M602 in Manchester was caused by a passenger train running into the back of a train of tankers heeding to or from Trafford Park. I think it was i the early 80s as I was still at school. 

[atom3624]

Amazingly, all still works - nowadays, I expect to have to replace the circuit board, but I think it's simply the overheated, BIG motor which has lost some of it's continuity ... never mind.

 

Every day's a school day, fun or not, I may need to change my habits - less wasteful anyway!

I'll certainly 'test pull' the trains prior to hooking up.

 

Sometimes I've had 698, 699, 698g on the kitchen scales - nowadays pretty accurate - so 700g give or take a gnat's hind leg - beast in operation - near-silent and hauling power quite substantial, and with a reasonable turn of speed, if required.

 

Definitely one of the better proprietary locomotives available.

The fact that the plastic 'brace shim' was part-deformed, not major, but pretty obvious, visually, says it all.

 

Al.

[Jimbo1707820979]

Very bad luck, Al.  Glad the damage was not worse.  Several times I have left locos running unattended for a few minutes and the outcome has been unhappy.  It proves the advice I have read "don't do it". Also, for the benefit of some other readers, running analog locos using a DCC controller  -- don't do that either, even using the ' 0' setting -- don't do that either.   It has cost me two nice locos. 😢  The fatal whiff of smoke.

[atom3624]

Cheers JP.

I'll find out if there was any other damage once the motor and 'shim' are received, and installed.

It's a fantastic locomotive - just waiting for a certain other manufacturer to distribute their TPE Mk.5 coach sets ....

TBH I've found a few Hunts couplings which haven't been a tight fit in the NEM sockets but don't want to resort to gluing them - think I should consider shimming / packing them to ensure a tight fit.

Task for the weekend it is then !!

 

Al.

[Twintop]

I have just been running all my engines after about a 4 month gap so have found a few issues. 

First was a LIMA Class 121 railcar. I found the gears to be very dirty and with some ballast in amongst. However, to cut a long story short, I had to remove a gear to make it just drive via one axle and it works perfectly well. A tiny gear was wobbling on its "axle" and jamming, so in effect I just switched it out. 

Then, a LIMA class 117 3 car unit. That also needed a good clean and a wire re-soldering to a brush.

Next problem is a Bachmann Class 46 D193 which runs then slips to a halt. When reversed a short distance the drive re-connects and you can then go forward again. A good clean and lubrication seemed to have solved the problem as it completed 28 circuits of around 30 feet a circuit, but then failed again. The problem mainly occurs on a curve.

I can fathom out where the slippage is occurring - between a flywheel and the gear tower, but can't get to it to inspect it more closely. It seems like unsoldering several wires may be the only way to get to the offending area. There seems to be a plastic collar by the flywheel that may have a split in it - could that be the cause ? Or maybe that is how it should be. Has anyone had similar problems - is it worth me disconnecting the wires to get the heavy chassis block off for a close inspection ? 

Next on the list are two "wobbly" running Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2Ts that I think will need the white plastic axle bearings replacing. Super engines, with current collection off the front pony truck unlike later models. 

I assume my issues are that these locas are 20- 25 years old.   

Finally, lots of coupling hook to replace, most makes just seem to fall off on a whim.     

[atom3624]

Running and stopping - probably pickup fingers dirty or not making contact. Some rely on a clean axle running inside a copper / bronze ring, so can be over-oiled.

Running then slipping - perhaps there's a dogbone not located in the drive cup, or even the 'bone is broken.

 

Al.

[81F]

 I've just resumed work on the Layout and have turn my attention to Chirk (GWR) Station itself. Having £D printed the buildings I am now working on the road bridge and "earthworks" up to it. For the main beams I have adapted a Wills Vari-girder bridge span kit (needed 2 because I was one plain panel short and thanks to SWMBO for cutting out the parts).

 

 Next step will be to consult photos and Google again to see how the footbridge abutments tie up. I had ordered a Triang footbridge off eBay to cut up for one of the stair cases but found that it was in rather too good condition so have added this to the collection and ordered another. 

  

I am also awaiting the delivery of some Wills Concrete rendering sheets to surface the platform. This will raise the abutments to something closer to the bridge' scorrect height, though I suspect I will need to raise the span a bit further to give sufficient clearence if I am to ever run my any of my American stock and possibly the Bosh Buster, although I will need to chisel awau some well hidden scenic supports before there is enough lateral clearence!

[Jimbo1707820979]

I have just been running all my engines after about a 4 month gap so have found a few issues. 

 

Finally, lots of coupling hook to replace, most makes just seem to fall off on a whim.     

            For sure, those coupling hooks are a real pain in the neck !  And so many different types too.

            I feel there are at least two glaring design faults that Hornby, Bachmann et al. have absolutely  FAILED to address.  Coupling hooks and points. Am I howling to the moon ?  (Don't answer too quickly)  Do you have other things to add to this ?

[81F]

The worst I find for falling off are the narrow NEM type the worst being Dapol but closely followed by the the old LIMA wide and Hornby Wide with NEM pockets and ex airfix. The intermeiate ones are arned too cleaver with at least one comming off per packet. The Dapol intermediate ones are generally better but the best for staying on are the Hornby wide plastic tension locks and Bachmann/mainline intermediate couplings. However, if the latter does come off finding the little spring is a real problem.

 

Of ourse the best for not loosing Hooks must be the Triang oe Wrenn wide tension locks - you really have to try hard to "break" one of these.

 

Any way back to the topic. Just about to assemble a PECO permanent way hut.

[Rana Temporia]

With the rain today I decided to get out my box of 'bits' to see if there was anything worth fixing and in it was an incomplete Tri-ang Hiawatha that I got a couple of years ago out of a box of junk for £1. When I actually looked at it the valve gear and rods were virtually complete with the motion bracket, but no wire from the pick-ups, no motor and no rear pony truck. Luckily the front bogie wit the cow catcher was present. 

 

I also had two incomplete Tri-ang Princess chassis from the same period so replaced all the missing bits and assembled an X04 motor up from parts. The motor didn't work too well when tested so I swapped a better magnet out of another part motor and instant success. 

 

When I placed the chassis on the track the last thing I expected was for it to work first time but it did, without me having cleaned the wheels or pick-upS. I put the body on and ran it for a while with no problems whatsoever. 

 

From the remaining bits from the other chassis there are enough parts to build up a complete Princess version so I'll probably get on with that tomorrow and send all the remainder off to someone else on an internet auction site. 

 

Great fun for an hour or so!

[Postman Prat]

 

Without doubt you cannot beat the old Peco/Hornby-Dublo buckeye coupling.

 

[Simmo009]

I have just been running all my engines after about a 4 month gap so have found a few issues. 

First was a LIMA Class 121 railcar. I found the gears to be very dirty and with some ballast in amongst. However, to cut a long story short, I had to remove a gear to make it just drive via one axle and it works perfectly well. A tiny gear was wobbling on its "axle" and jamming, so in effect I just switched it out. 

Then, a LIMA class 117 3 car unit. That also needed a good clean and a wire re-soldering to a brush.

Next problem is a Bachmann Class 46 D193 which runs then slips to a halt. When reversed a short distance the drive re-connects and you can then go forward again. A good clean and lubrication seemed to have solved the problem as it completed 28 circuits of around 30 feet a circuit, but then failed again. The problem mainly occurs on a curve.

I can fathom out where the slippage is occurring - between a flywheel and the gear tower, but can't get to it to inspect it more closely. It seems like unsoldering several wires may be the only way to get to the offending area. There seems to be a plastic collar by the flywheel that may have a split in it - could that be the cause ? Or maybe that is how it should be. Has anyone had similar problems - is it worth me disconnecting the wires to get the heavy chassis block off for a close inspection ? 

Next on the list are two "wobbly" running Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2Ts that I think will need the white plastic axle bearings replacing. Super engines, with current collection off the front pony truck unlike later models. 

I assume my issues are that these locas are 20- 25 years old.   

Finally, lots of coupling hook to replace, most makes just seem to fall off on a whim.     

Twin top, on the Ivatts,  look at the driving wheels from the bottom and check that the spokes are still perpendicular. I had one where the centre had popped out and this caused a hell of a wobble. You can get spare wheel sets from Bachmann if this is the issue.

[81F]

 

Without doubt you cannot beat the old Peco/Hornby-Dublo buckeye coupling.

 

Hi PP, I would agree with this statement now I have a few pieces of stock with them. Sadly, like the demise of Brunels broad gauge, it would be too much work,fiddly, costly to change all my stock so have opted for wide/intermediate tension lock couplings except on fixed rakes.

 

What would be useful is a converter wagon, presumably the easiest would be a Wrenn Fruit D assuming I can get the screws one that is not too good to convert! At the moment I ham having to use an nem fitted wagon to convert from Tension lock to continental next to an old Jouef wagon to convert from continental to PECO!

[atom3624]

After recently purchasing Tulyar I decided to install some lighting.

 

Cab lights - debatable but I like them - and also directional Domino / red lighting.

I'm waiting on some 2.2mm diameter optical fibre for the Domino lamps, and have inserted the smaller optical fible for the reds - to be trimmed back.

 

Once the larger fibre is received, I'll insert into the holes I've drilled - hopefully I can tidy up the black lines around the lamps, but shouldn't look too bad.

 

Once all is inserted, glued and trimmed, I can them line up the lamps and mount - permanently.

 

I have connected to a micro-connector, which goes to the chassis - permits easy removal of the body for future maintenance.

 

Hopefully I've got the polarities the right way around - joking, I have!!

 

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Cabling is tidied up inside the body to ensure easy mounting.

The zig-zag is me not wanting to trim back the cables too short - fear of getting too short, so I always seem to need to do this - no bad thing anyway.

 

One thing I've noticed with some of these older 'new' locomotives is the glazing can easily be pushed out, so I've been around all glazing with polystyrene cement to ensure they stay put!!

 

I hope to receive the larger diameter optical fibre, then will insert in the same manner as the smaller diameter fibre - target is to 'flush mount' it, superglue into the holes, trim back - ensuring the light unit lights up directly, then seal all up once working installed - should be this coming weekend.

 

Al.

[atom3624]

Just posted my latest 'project' - lighting install in a Bachmann Deltic.

 

Photos included, so 'watch this space'.

 

Al.

[Jimbo1707820979]

Interesting post, Al. Will look for your further report.  What are 'domino' lamps ?  Also why do you need to use optical fibre ?  (I'm never too old to learn !)

[Chrissaf]

...why do you use optical fibre?

.

Optical fibre in models is used as a 'plastic light guide' to transmit light typically from a central larger light source. The table lamps in Pullman coaches is a good example of where 'light guides' are used. This time in the form of clear plastic mouldings rather than actual plastic fibre. The diameter of the plastic fibre can be very small, far smaller than a traditional LED. So the use of plastic light guide fibre can enable very small sources of light eminating from the front / rear of a loco body. For example 1mm or less. Another advantage, is that using a plastic light guide means that you don't have to find space directly behind the light location on the body shell for a relatively bulky LED. The LED can be mounted remotely from where the light is required and a common LED can be a shared resource for more than one plastic light guide.

.

What are 'Domino' lamps?

.

Domino lights are the lights on the front of a locomotive that are enclosed within a black oblong box ... see example image below. Called Domino because the black box and two white dots (lamps) look a bit like the 'double one' Domino used in the game.

.

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[atom3624]

Couldn't have put it better myself!!

 

Many thanks to Chris - perfect explanation.

 

I'm hoping the larger diameter optical fibre can permit a fairly uniform transmission of light for the Domino lights - it's only ~2mm diameter, so should work, and help keep the hole 'plugged' - a hole was needed to permit the Domino lights.

There is a sort-of 'Plan B', as the kit was made for normal Domino lamps - pair of lit white circles on a black panel and comes with an adhesive printed sheet to cover the hole - I'll use this, trimmed, if necessary.

 

I used one of these kits in my Hornby 08 shunter and with a bit of fettling, and reminding of skills I once had, found it challenging and quite enjoyable - and works perfectly - off Ebay.

 

Will update when able, hopefully fully operational!

 

Al.

[Jimbo1707820979]

Thanks Gents for your shedding light to The Dim One. 😛   Ironic to think that my alma mater's motto is "Fiat Lux" !  Right now I am working on magnetic couplings using a couple of converter wagons, one for Goods, the other for Passenger. Trials went OK using ferrous magnets and small round-headed bolts and hauling 8 wagons but I am upgrading to neodymium for stronger connection. The round heads avoid cornering problems.

The converter wagon solution does not solve the problem of easily removing one wagon from a rake (as with Hunt couplings) but is a useful method for changing complete rakes, which could be kept on sidings, and adaptable for older non-NEM couplings, which most of my rolling stock have.

I like the idea of Hunt couplings but it would be expensive to convert all my wagons and coaches.

[Twintop]

Thanks for the responses on my Bachmann class 46 and Ivatt 2-6-2 Ts running problems. I ended up with 2 Ivatts as when they first came out they had pickups on the front pony truck and were heavy, so current collection was excellent - far better than most steam locos of the same era.  However, the plastic bearings encasing the split axles are a weak point, leading to "wobbling" running. 

 

Similarly, I have a Bachmann std 4  4-6-0 and the plastic spoked wheels are distorted. On my chinese version, I got replacement wheelests off Bachmann and that runs fine now, but the earlier "75078" in black was made in Hong Kong apparently and no wheelsets were available for that version.   

 

We have been decorating during the bad weather - wet most days for over 2 weeks now, so no progress on any more repairs for now, but hope to get back to it soon.  The class 46 is a problem as I just can't see where the problem is exactly. Something is slipping and I know it is between a flywheel and a gear tower, but the heavy chassis block stops me seeing what is happening and to remove it would mean de-soldering several joints, which are on to a circuit board and so a risk in itself with my lack of soldering skills ! 

 

I am stil puzzled as to why it can do 28 circuits without a problem then suddenly slip to a halt, then when reversed it re-engages and sorts itself out for a while.  

 

The Class 44 works fine, so have just cleaned and oiled that.    

 

Regarding the coupling hooks, I have lots to put on as the modern ones are so flimsy they just keep falling off and it is a mystery how they ever stay on in the first place as they are weakly clipped on. The old Triang ones looked ungainly, but worked and were also better with uncoupling ramps !!  

[atom3624]

Not certain about this, but found something with my Class 68 from Dapol.

The drive cups, or 'yokes' push into the brass flywheels.

 

If this is how Bachmann have done this, it's possible the yokes are slipping inside the brass flywheels.

Just an obscure option.

 

Others are simply that there's a gear or 2 slipping on their respective shafts.

 

Al.

[atom3624]

Quick Deltic update.

I purchased and received some 2mm optical fibre, so with the huge excess I'm working on how to trim it neatly - easiest is with a scalpel.

 

My main concern is to ensure a neat, tidy black seal / line around the optical fibre.

I've got trimmed pieces fitting neatly in the drilled holes - fit snug up to the light units without problem.

 

I've another alternative coming - some more 2mm optical fibre, but with a 0.75mm black sheath around it - this could be the perfect solution, so I'll see how neatly I can cut this.

If it's without issue, I'll use it, drill the holes out further to accommodate, and proceed from there.

 

Al.

[atom3624]

Seems all 'me' here, hardly the case I'm sure.

 

I hate the squeaky clean matt paint look of so-called 'pristine' steam locomotives, so have matted the smokebox and gloss varnished the rest on both my Bachmann apple green BR A1 Tornado and Hornby R2687 (as it should look I reckon!!) Flying Scotsman.

 

Al.

[atom3624]

Bit the bullet on lighting again ...

 

Got another light kit on the way, for the non-lit Bachmann 'disc' Class 40 I bought a few weeks ago.

 

Al.

[atom3624]

Had a minor problem with Scottie - new extra-lacquered look, dulled smokebox look great, but when removing the masking tape, it seemed to have attached to the speedo cable, and pulled that out from the body.

 

Mixing up the 2-pack Araldite, just as I start mounting the speedo, wife calls to be collected from the supermarket ... only 5-7 minutes' time, so should still be OK.

 

Return, cannot find the little slot, so use one of the long, super-sharp 'blade' (name and nature now!!) screwdrivers, but with general disturbances, I lose focus, and the screwdriver goes through the running plate - not visible unless you know where - and into my hand - halfway!!

Pulled out, cleaned of course, sorted out the speedo, but now I've a scratch on the boiler I hadn't before - working on it, but not happy!!

 

Never mind, hand ache is there to remind me to maintain focus in future!

 

Al.