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What's on your workbench?


81F

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Ordered a replacement motor for my 2nd Dapol class 68 'Splendid', as it's original had started to 'play up'.

Someone on RMWEB had opened up one of these, and it appears the brushes are screwed into place and can become misplaced, which accelerates the wear. With the twin flywheels, maintenance and realignment of the brushes is not really a routine, so replacement motor is what it is.

Brutus, my other one, is running superbly just now, but is on her 3rd motor - 1st replacement was through it burning out - became disconnected from her train, and came back around, blocked, .....

Now I've 2x TPE Class 68's fully operational to haul my new Accurascale coach set - look great!

I gently broke in the new motor on light power, both ways, to assist the brushes bedding in, before inserting into Splendid - now circulating at a near identical speed at same power settings to Brutus.

Al.

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I recently had 2 Gresley tender driven pacifics go through my workshop so to speak.


The locos were 60080 Dick Turpin and 60071 Tranquil.


Even though the motors looked to have been serviced before I purchased them, when I got them home and put them on my tracks, their performance was rather lumpy to say the least.


I gave both locos a full wheel clean and tried them again but performance was still not good even after a clean and oiling by me as I decided to do my own service on them but even then the performance was still not good at all.


Eventually after adding my own pickups the performance improved slightly so I decided to explore through my fleet to see where I could scrounge a spare cd motor from.


1 of them came from a former class 92 which was twin motored and the other a few days ago came from my currently 6 coach hybrid train based on the old class 110 painted in all over yellow as if working for network rail.


60071 Tranquil was the 1st loco to be done and was converted and running in about 30 minutes and 60080 Dick Turpin was done just a few days ago.


Another loco I currently have on my workshop track awaiting attention is a V1 2-6-2 tank locomotive. I will try to describe as best I can what the issue is and if I can get a picture down to the required specification for the forum I will post it.


I only found the problem after I picked the locomotive up from a collectors shop in Birkenhead Market. In short the driving wheels were loose and the main coupling rods for the 3 driving axles were not running straight.


Further investigation after removing the base keeper plate revealed that the plastic axles on axles 1 & 3 were split accross the full width of the loco and I think the 2nd axles which includes the gear was also on the verge of splitting into disintegration status.


My investigation also revealed that the previous owner may have also tried to repair the plastic axles by gluing them but this did not work.


I think I still have a split chassis from a Bachmann V2 which I bought back in 2005 and I am thinking that the 3 plastic axles from that chassis may get the V1 running but I would certainly welcome opinions 1st before I engage in the transplant of parts.


If that will not work, does anybody know where the plastic replacements are available from or if the parts are not available, have Bachmann produced a much upgraded chassis for the V1 that is at the same performance level and standards of the newly upgraded V2 locomotive which is no longer a split chassis loco.


Another possibility I am toying with is finding Hornby wheels or Kit Build wheels of a suitable size for the V1 and using plastic tubing to isolate the axles from the chassis and provide power to the motor via my own self made pickup system.


Opinions on these ideas are welcome


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Further to my post yesterday including the question about the V1 locomotive, I have scrapped the valve gear as 1 of the support brackets that has a pin which snug fits into the chassis halves was broken when I picked the engine up from the place in Birkenhead Market mentioned yesterday.


I was up until 03:20 this morning trying to repair it with the idea of using a screw thin enough to go through all the pieces and after a lot of cursing I just decided to scrap the valve gear and model the loco as if it had been built as an inside cylinder loco ( I know the V1s were not inside cylinder locomotives ) as it will still be a usable chassis and still works although I would say even better without the valve gear.

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Just received two 3D printed Davy Crockett cow catchers off eBay, not for a Davy Crockett but for my two clockwork Wild West locos, a perfect fit as they originally used the Davy Crockett one. Now I need someone to 3D print the smokestack and lamp for them. I will try and match the paint over the weekend!


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That CoL is a gem - strange 'lubricated rattle' under power, but the performance is superb, so not bothered.

I've had my Peckett in the shops for 'alterations' - nothing drastic but I was concerned with the metal bodied tanks, and plastic cab, the weight bias seemed 60% front half, 40% rear.

It doesn't need any weight addition for traction, that B2 0-6-0 for it's size is a brilliant performer.

I removed the coal moulding, and near-filled the scuttle with folded Pb sheeting, then replaced. The 170g locomotive now weights 191g according to the wife's kitchen scales, but the balance is much more even - long-term should assist the little gem, and just feels better being more balanced.

I know it's not a BMW, but it's just one of those things.

Al.

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With the partial assistance of a radiator, the gloss varnish was used today, on my 2 Crimson Lake LMS streamliners.

One a latest model Duchess of Hamilton, the other a lightly detailed previous model City of Birmingham.

Both look considerably better for 'a good sheen' on them.

Al.

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A pile of mixed parts from Hornby, Lima, Triang and other power bogies and pancake motors, most of some age, some rather battered and all collected in dribs and drabs from train fairs and ebay over the last 5 years or so. So far I have fettled 9 working bogies from the pile by swapping about parts and am well on the way to another 4, but running out of small parts (gears, brushes and brush springs). Although bitzas, they run very well. The Triang bogies (EM2 x 2, Hymek x 2, Transcontinental x 1) are indestructible and the Lima not far behind. All I now need are some locos to fit them into.

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After the success of the gloss varnish to both of my Crimson Lake LMS Streamliners, I used a pin drive to drill out a couple of the jewelled Springside LMS lamps, and mounted them on the older tooling 'City of Birmingham', then painted them (leaving the lamp part of course).

They're not the winged 'streamlined' lamps, but still look the part.

I'm still planning of trying to 'Red Bull' the lamps (give them wings!!) but we'll see if it's possible.

Good fun.

Al.

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Couple of photos - 6229 Duchess of Hamilton - latest tooling, but glossed to a good sheen as a top express locomotive should be.

6235 City of Birmingham also glossed - previous tooling but an absolute stunner of a runner - smooth, controllable from crawl to VERY fast!

I've added crew, deflectors, draincocks, then latest are those drilled out Springside LMS lamps to which I fitted tiny triangles to represent the wings, and painted a sort of Crimson Lake - blend of buffer beam red and a touch of black (my C.L. had gone hard!)

Al.forum_image_63ebf6ae5bdba.thumb.png.93ae523eafa9eb05a0f6aceb655779f1.pngforum_image_63ebf6ba69f58.thumb.png.5818480e5a00ee65f40d6a03bd0de1a0.png

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I managed to 'create' a homegrown winged lamp - photo in post above.

TBH I know Hamilton is the latest tooling, but Birmingham is so good I almost prefer it!

Hamilton runs very well, but Birmingham seems in another league - could take the crown off Mallard if full scale I reckon!

I'm toying with 'lining' the wheels as Hamilton. Not sure but not that complicated, and should be reversible.

Al.

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After all of the other detailing additions - 'winged' lamps, deflectors, draincocks, crew, soot over the top, sheen/gloss ... one thing still stood out a lot cf the latest tooling streamliner Coronations .... the silvered hoops and centres of the drivers ... so I had a go.

I'll probably end up touching up a little, but not too bad for a first attempt.

Cruising hauling 8 super detail LMS coaches, a 'Dapol' 12-wheeler restaurant car, and a Bachmann luggage van - all LMS, the Gaugemaster 'D' is set at ~55% and I would guesstimate speed an easy 65-70 mph.

When I 'crank it' to full power, it literally takes your breath away - fantastic locomotive!!

Once authorised, here's a few photos - 1 with Hamilton in the background.

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Currently working on a pair of Ian Kirk Gresley teak coaches - a non-corridor composite and a 52ft brake third. Neither of these are available ready-to-run, and I have the added bonus of the satisfaction of having made them myself. I also prefer my weathered/tired teak finish to the beautiful pristine finish of the Hornby superdetailed range, though my phone makes the coaches look much brighter than they really are!


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Another bash I’ve been doing is upgrading the old Hornby/ Mainline, first of a modest rake. The main chassis has been switched for an open frame type more prototypical of a tank wagon. The one on the left is done the other is has made by Hornby/ Mainline.forum_image_63f26719aaf5c.thumb.png.db665609c264356af5c7b44cfc73b8c3.pngforum_image_63f26723105d6.thumb.png.bde35096c10e8a5744ad2e7a5f79ff60.pngforum_image_63f26729ecc58.thumb.png.4de9509c61f7e93c3c7eeffef6b6131f.png

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On the workbench at the moment is the whole layout on its side for uprating the points CDU output. The CDU until now has been powered by the 15 volt DC auxiliary ouput from my Elite. Although the points (all Peco Electrofrog switched by Peco PL10 motors) switch cleanly almost without fail I have had instances of one particular point very occasionaly failing to throw cleanly. Very minor light adjustment of the motor mount restores normal function.


With 15 volt DC being at the lower end of the generally accepted voltage range I set about installing an adjustable step up power supply module readily available on Ebay at a cost of £5 for two. The ones I bought have a maximum output of 35 volts DC. With the maximum input voltage of my CDU being 32 volts DC I conservatively set the output of the booster to 25 volts using the existing 15 volt auxiliary supply as the source. With the original set up of 15 volts the maximum voltage available across the capacitors was 13.6 (a little low perhaps) but with 25 volts in the new set up 23.7 volts are available across the capacitors.


The increase in positivity of point throw is easily discernible and reliability of switching has so far been 100%.

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I received an R2258 'weathered' Black 5 yesterday.

Photos were of a perfect example.

What was received had one broken window deflector (not difficult admittedly) and the smokebox door 'dart' missing.

The original dart was found within the box, amazingly, 'though I managed to loose it never to be found again.

I managed to create a replacement deflector - doesn't look too bad at all.

I still had a couple of 'spare' brass replacement 3-piece darts - boss plus 2 arms - and have replaced the dart - amazingly without the assistance of a magnifying glass, but threading is not easy!

Locomotive genuinely is superb, and is being 'prepared' - detailing fitted, pending crew, weight added where able to body and tender as I always do - another good addition to the fold.

Yes, the damage was mentioned and a part-refund was received.

Al.

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I've had an old Bachmann Warship on 'the workbench' for a couple of months.

It needed a replacement motor. One was purchased, drivetrain opened up, cleaned, all replaced, and ... she went, occasionally well, then ... slowly!

I stopped before confirmed permanent damage was incurred.

Expecting the motor to be damaged, I purchased a few spare motors.

All was opened up again, cleaned out and checked. Any grease to wax was removed from all gears, and drive worms checked. It appeared the bushings may be the wrong way around - appeared a little tight, but reversed seemed freer.

I lightly lubed and reassembled all, not clamping the metal bogie sides too tightly, resoldering a few wires - collateral damage.

Motor disconnected from the bogies ran very nicely - no long-term damage, which is great.

The dogbones are asymmetric - one is slightly longer, the shorter being the same as used on the Class 24, 25 - strange but true.

I hooked up one bogie - all very good.

I connected the other bogie - still very good!

I trialled the chassis on the track .... WOW!!

It must be as fast as my Super Detailed HST, which is very fast!! Amazing!

Warship is now all in one piece, and apparently running extremely well.

It needs a bit more current to start moving, but perhaps that's the highish gearing.

It seems smooth enough, but that speed really is amazing!

Al.

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45611 has been renumbered 45596, and renamed Bahamas - with great care I don't appear to have 'damaged' the main colour coat and will cover with lacquer once all of the modifications have finished.

Cast 'white alloy' double chimney arrived today.

On comparing the cast chimney with 'Bahamas' as she is, some 'fettling' was required. I cleaned off the fine mould lines, and fettled the raised platform double exits into the 'double ring' as it appears on the real one - to some extent.

Chimney has now been placed, and an initial coat of paint added - won't be the final one, but something for the final matt black to adhere to once all has finished.

Al.

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