atom3624 Posted Saturday at 21:12 Share Posted Saturday at 21:12 Just had a minor disaster where my rebuilt W1 60700 I named Pegasus' valvegear self-destructed. She'd been running exceptionally well, forwards, but I needed to reverse, and hadn't noticed the valvegear had locked, then bent ... on straightening all seemed OK, but the linkage mount hole was deformed. I tried to flatten, all seemed good, but on remounting the eccentric linkage just next to the centre driver popped out ... Lendon's were the best-priced - strangely the un-rebuilt W1 valvegear is 1/3 the price of the rebuilt valvegear set - no obvious difference in content, just design. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted Sunday at 11:23 Share Posted Sunday at 11:23 Had some time to make progress on some of the six 3D printed locos I bought to fit on RTR hornby chassis. The ‘Big Bagnall’ has had under the boiler pipe work fitted and just needs the cab detail adding before getting a spray of primer. This Oak Hill Works (Ex Hardy’s Hobbies kit) is designed to fit the Hornby Peckett chassis but I had a spare Hornby/Electroten one available. The body needed some modification and the rear axle is 2mm too far back but near enough for me. I will fit the ladders to the tank filler after painting as otherwise it’ll be too difficult to get behind with a brush. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted Sunday at 12:02 Share Posted Sunday at 12:02 (edited) Having reached the end of the road with lying on my back under the layout in order to install point motors and other accessories, I've decided from now on everything is going surface mount. I just can't do it anymore. With an arthritic back and shaky hands I find I get quite hot and bothered working with tiny screws etc. and the more hot and bothered I get the shakier my hands get. Plus, getting back up on my feet the other day I felt one of my replacement hips click, so that just about did it for me. Anyway, it's not a problem with points as they can just get disguised with buildings etc. but I have uncouplers in my goods yard which work off under-board servos pushing a bent piece of wire up and down. They work great but I had a mishap the other day which caused two of the servos to become dislodged and are now dangling in mid-air from their cables. So, I've started to design something equally effective but with a surface mount operation. Early days yet so no pictures, but hopefully I'll post some when it's finished. Phew! that was long winded 😂 Edited Sunday at 12:03 by Brew Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted Sunday at 12:57 Share Posted Sunday at 12:57 All my point motors are upstairs as is much of my bus wiring, the distribution boards at least - see second image, with the droppers being fed up from under and similar at the rails. Loco detection sensor looms are made up above stairs and the sensors pushed into holes drilled between the sleepers and the plug ends fed back to the connector modules again upstairs - example in the image. Connection from these Tx modules to the motherboard being by way of fibre-optic cable (blue connectors in the first image). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted Sunday at 13:06 Share Posted Sunday at 13:06 (edited) Yep, that's the way to go, Rob. As I said most things are not a problem and can be disguised easily. I just need to sort the uncouplers out, but I have a plan in my head. Like my builder often says, there's always a way. While you're on can you think what the name for those fixing brackets is? the larger ones are used to fix pipes to a surface and comprise a simple arch that goes over the pipe with two wings with screw holes that fix to the surface. I'm looking for miniature ones just to guide point rodding but can't for the life of me think what they are called. Edited Sunday at 13:13 by Brew Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted Sunday at 13:24 Share Posted Sunday at 13:24 Hi Brew Man Try: Pipe strap Pipe Anchor Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted Sunday at 13:27 Share Posted Sunday at 13:27 (edited) I'll try that, Bee, thanks. EDIT: Direct hit, thanks. Now to see if I can find them in sub-miniature sizes. Edited Sunday at 13:28 by Brew Man 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted Sunday at 14:14 Share Posted Sunday at 14:14 1 hour ago, Brew Man said: the name for those fixing brackets is? the larger ones are used to fix pipes to a surface and comprise a simple arch that goes over the pipe with two wings with screw holes that fix to the surface. I'm looking for miniature ones just to guide point rodding but can't for the life of me think what they are called Saddle clamps as opposed to P clips. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/cables-wires/cable-ties-fixings/cable-clips-clamps/?applied-dimensions=4294819471 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted Sunday at 15:14 Share Posted Sunday at 15:14 Thanks, Rob. Yes I think I've found some that will do the job. They are for 2.6mm wire. I'll be using 1mm wire so hopefully not too slack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted Sunday at 15:59 Share Posted Sunday at 15:59 Pack the 2.6 mm pipe anchor with an extra layer of wire insulation. The color blend perfectly, making it camouflaged. The extra bit will appear as a pipe join. And the anchor will actually function as an anchor, a complete bonus! 😁 Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted Sunday at 17:29 Share Posted Sunday at 17:29 (edited) Well I don't want them to be a total anchor, they are meant as guides only that will allow the wires to freely slide back and forth. Edited Sunday at 17:33 by Brew Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted Sunday at 20:28 Share Posted Sunday at 20:28 Whoops! I didn't read carefully enough Brew Man. Hard clamping the rod for the points may not be desired. Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted Sunday at 20:38 Author Share Posted Sunday at 20:38 On 05/06/2024 at 06:51, atom3624 said: When on DC, is the motor needing more power to get going? Just thinking it may be overloading the DCC chip perhaps? Al. Not really, unfortunately the chip has overheated and stopped working so I am wondering if it may be the chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Tall Posted Monday at 13:28 Share Posted Monday at 13:28 On 30/06/2024 at 12:23, Rana Temporia said: Had some time to make progress on some of the six 3D printed locos I bought to fit on RTR hornby chassis. The ‘Big Bagnall’ has had under the boiler pipe work fitted and just needs the cab detail adding before getting a spray of primer. I will fit the ladders to the tank filler after painting as otherwise it’ll be too difficult to get behind with a brush. Having just spent an hour repairing a Bachmann pannier by fixing a fallen out handrail knob and making up missing handrail on one of the door sides from Alan Gibson knobs and 51L 0.45mm wire, I can only deduce you have a lot of patience and skill to fit that lot from scratch, Kudos to you sir 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted Monday at 14:44 Share Posted Monday at 14:44 1 hour ago, Too Tall said: Having just spent an hour repairing a Bachmann pannier by fixing a fallen out handrail knob and making up missing handrail on one of the door sides from Alan Gibson knobs and 51L 0.45mm wire, I can only deduce you have a lot of patience and skill to fit that lot from scratch, Kudos to you sir 😊 The medium handrail knobs aren’t that bad, the small ones are a pain! These printed bodies have holes/indentations ready formed so drilling accurately is easy. I use old guitar string for handrails, usually a B, one string will do several locos and if I make a mess it’s cheap enough to start again. The pipework under the boiler is made from paper clips which provide a cheap source of 0.7/8mm fairly stiff wire. The representations of the couplings for the pipework are made from 2mm styrene rod which is easy to drill with a 0.8mm bit and the wire is superglued in. A plain G guitar string makes good springy replacement pick-ups for locos. Again, one string will make quite a lot. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted Monday at 22:27 Share Posted Monday at 22:27 Just received an old Bachmann B.R. Black 6624 0-6-2 Early Logo - runs extremely well, but have cleaned up and given some fresh oil. I'm in the process of fitting crew and will paint the bulkhead / control panel - it's very well moulded, but not painted, but strangely is part of the chassis, so completely accessible when the body is removed - excellent!! The cab footplate is part of the body, so that's having crew fitted whilst the chassis is circulating forwards / backwards - 180 - forwards / backwards. Then I'll paint up the bulkhead / control panel. Looks like a fantastic locomotive. Chassis uses very little power indeed - best I've encountered - or a totally out of spec motor!! Gearing is perfect for a good locomotive as well. Photo after internal paint and (raised as floor too low) crew fitted .... Al. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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