Darren-373700

Good old Hornby Silver Link wheels I think .. caused havoc on my Streamline Peco points ... with a 'test coach' .. swapped for the plain R8096 wheels which I also slotted into an old DMU set (middle and trailor) and now runs smoothly, quieter and doesn't wobble.

Great stuff NTP ... I may even get this up and running before the decades out ..

I'm thinking more like your second reasoning NT .. only following the diagram of the MTB motor above ^^ the positives go to the motor not the switch.. and the negatives are on the middle peg of the On On .... scratches head I don't want multiple points to switch at once .. yet .. 4 switches to control 4 points at each 'corner' of the layout as it were.

There are loads of Youtube ambient sounds, from country side to bustling city's and stations rip them to an MP3 file and play on loop.

Hi chaps .. me again, am I right in thinking that because I'm using MTB motors which have an auto power off at the end of each switching position, I can 'daisy chain' the power feeds to each point motor .. and daisy chain each negative from the 'On - On' panel switches?

Is this 4 amp PSU recommended for all Selects on larger circuits?

Maybe i could come down to the 2x 0.50 then .. and still be in spec? But use the 2x0.75 for the rails bus? The lay - out is roughly 25ft long and 8ft wide, single track apart from a passing loop at the station. Was thinking of having several distribution boards along the way to sort of create hidden power sub stations for different areas, lighting houses and street lights etc.

2 x 0.75 .. Would this wire be suitable for an accessory bus .. be used mainly for LED lighting and a few other bits and bobs. Can't really tell from the description, I need a piece in my hand to judge it!!

Cool ... thanks, once you see it in your mind makes it clear .. I didn't realise for some reason there would be two sets of power going into these modules. Thanks for sticking with me NTPNT' .. and Baz, good thinking, glad you told me.

So the common is the frog green wire and the other two are spliced from the red and black droppers from the points/DCC bus?

OK .. so I am kind of starting to put some point motors in soon .. MTB mp1 to be exact, I have the points (Peco Electrofrog Streamline Code 100) I have watched the videos ^^ and can't see the points for wires everywhere. I have cut the two linking wires, bonded the stock rails to the closure rails and included two dropper wires from this area! Also added two insulated joiners at the frog bit. I have shortened and added a green wire to the flimsy frog wire, so from under the baseboard I have a red and black wire (track) and the green frog wire. Is this all I need? From the picture below, where do I put the wire to the frog? The aux is switched one way or another, so do I need TWO frog wires?? Else how does it change polarity..This is what is confusing me, I just cannot see the obvious. I have soldered in lights and breakout boards etc in new and old locos, but this electrical voodoo is killing me. I am using a switch only (on-off-on) , no electronic control automatics, please help.

Cheers fellas ... I'll sleep on it, I will go with the bonding tip and go with a switchable frog no doubt, but I've just broken my wire strippers so that's it for today. I have managed to set my MTB MP1 motors to 3mm swing without breaking anything!!

Another issue is the wire size ... it ranges from 7-02 to 16-02 for track feeds ... which is best? I've opted for the 7-02 but then when you see the size of the frog wire on the points and its very thin and fragile, nothing like what I've been advised to use ... can ethernet cable be used as a frog extension perhaps .. got loads of that kicking about 😁

A little more complicated you're not kidding especially if you want added extras such as the panel lighting etc ... what adds to the problem is on the right side of the layout the boards are lower to add depth levels for the landscaping and this has caused the problem that the points on that side will need to be on an elevated section and so the point motor will have to be surface mounted or some right fiddly wiring between boards if you know what I mean?

Hi NT .. I'm using Peco Electrofrog Streamline points SL-E86 up to SL-E89 two of each left and right.

I know this subject is meat and drink for most of you, but what IS the best points wiring practise? I've watched so many Youtoob videos about it, but still confused. Most of the wiring demo's resemble a rats nest under the boards!! Do I need bonding wires if I'm only running longer locos and not shunters? Or will track connections at the toe suffice?? Do I need to cut off the little joiner wires? Do I need the frog to be switched .. ? All I am 'building' is a single line loft lay-out with a station passing loop (hence the headache with TWO points) and a multi track fiddle yard I'm going to have to switch manually as I'm struggling with two points let alone ten or so.. I want to be able to have a switch, on a control panel of some sort (perspex or plywood) with a basic track plan and control TWO points ..(MTB 1 which I have purchased) ..with an LED indicator to show which line is open for running traffic. I have not got any expensive DCC point command control or sophisticated computer run automation like most of the Youtubers.. just a basic 16v supply, a Select and now my phone with the new HM7000 range. Has anyone got an image of a straight forward, no nonsense basic, layman's easy to understand wiring diagram please. My work in the loft lately has become, getting up there, looking at it for half an hour, moving some wood around, convince myself I don't know what I'm doing for the best to the points, so, I cannot lay them, nor any track as it needs lining up. I need to join a club to get some basic skills🤔 Sorry for the rant but I've hit the buffers before I've started! Thanks in advance Daz Mod edit: your title was held back for moderation as it contained a banned word.

Not sure what all that means to be honest .. I have a length of track I test the running, adjust the speed take off and slow down and tweak a few volumes. And thats it for cv's adjustments for me.

Well if Hornby had some for sale I'd buy a few .. as it is, these look a perfect alternative and I have ordered ONE for now to test. Cheers Sammy's Boy.

😄 Fairy Nuff .. thats put that project to bed.

Ah ok that's a shame .. but still a cheap upgrade for the couple of TTS decoders I have ... I would have thought the electronic wizardry would have been installed on the TXS decoders by Hornby already to utilise their own brand? Does the likes of DCC Concepts and Laisdcc stay-alives mean NOT compatible also? Cheers Daz

Does anyone know what the capacity rate of the Hornby stay-alives for the TXS decoders is? I plan to make my own following the guy at Strathpeffen's tutorial. I figure that after sourcing the capacitors (10,000mf), the resistors, the diodes and the twin pin connectors, they work out to be about £2 each to make plus your time. I realise that the size of the 10k capactor will only fit old loco's and RailRoad stuff, but I have plenty of these I want to keep running and in Jenny Kirk's latest YouTube video, she positively drools over the Hornby DMU 110, which is another old set I intend to breath new life into... Cheers Daz

I've used the Maglights in my Hornby Mk3's .. and they are not long enough. I've had to add two LEDS, one at each end to light up the vestibules else it just doesn't look right. So, they're probably more suitable for your coaches as they are shorter.

I'm glad it's not just me .. I installed a TXS into a Class 50 but all the profile pictures were greyed out slightly and the Hornby logo was a red line .. I thought there was a problem, but it did all load up ok.

Could be .. but the engine sound plays fine! Poor little trailer van can't get the horn (s) 😬

Hello members Hope some one might shed some light on this little issue .. I purchased a twin pack TTS Valenta from a model show a few weeks back and have since fitted both into my old pair of Lima Fag Packet 'back up' HST's. The problem is, one of the decoders plays the engine sounds ok, but as soon as you try any other spot sounds, it crackles, and just restarts the engine sound. I'm living with it as it is in the dummy car and will probably only run in one direction. I think I can turn the horns volume down in this car via the cv's and wont really play many other sounds to be fair. Will be running both cars on one address too. Just wondered if anyone else had experienced this problem and was there a cure? A decoder re-set proved fruitless ... It's definitely the one decoder as it was first installed in the power car, I removed and swapped with it decoder #2 which works fine. Cheers Daz