John Symmons

Hi Wolfe 10 The set-up mentioned earlier from Amazon look like the one I have and it works fine. The included airbrush is OK for most uses, but I do find it some times does tend to clog-up. The compressor has a cut off and a pressure regulator and water trap that sort-of work most of the time, but sometimes a small splattering of water comes though if used on a humid day. The thing with hose connections can be a pain but if you buy the set the hoses should be set-up to connect to the compressor and airbrush. I also have a Badger and an old De Vil Bliss, I think is older than me, and finding connections was a pain. Fortunately I found a place that supplies medical compressores and vacuums to hospital opperating thearters and they were able to fix me up with every thing I needed even put a water trap on my very old piston compessor powered by a Singer sewning machine motor from the 60's. I would recommend you buy a set like the Amazon one, and practice then practice some more as it's quite a learning curve, even trying to get an all over even finish is not that easy. Then if needs be you can always up-grade to a better airbrush next Christmas. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi Jongeirr Love your experimentation using variours mixtures. I went through something simular trying to make waves for water-line models and found that Vallejo pastes while very good do work out expensive. Ended up using dry wall acrylic tile cement, it's reasonably cheap, (much cheaper than Vallejo or artists pastes) sticks to anything, water based, can be mixed with any water based paints and take any paint once set, (About 1 hour plus depending on thickness.) can be sculpted into almost any shape, and it stays there, and is non-toxic, and can easily be cut as it retains a slight rubbery texture when set.. I've used it on a couple of builds and they've all turned out fine. ( see my posts on HMS Manxman & Cambletown and the Ju 52 floatplane.) Give it a go it really works I can recommemd it. You could either mix it with very fine sand or sprinkle the sand over it while still wet and give it a light spray with water, a little goes a long way. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

If Airfix have any doubt about a market fo nautical models, that must now surely be put to rest seeing that this discusion has gone on for 10 weeks & 6 pages. So come on Airfix the market IS there, please some hint or teaser pretty please or something from admin. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi Robin Flower. As mentioned above most moden jets are gloss finished (Matt slows them down) but with the dust in the air it soon becomes a semi-gloss or satin finish. I've used Humbrol Clear gloss vanish using a brush and found that using one coat it quickly (2 to 4 days) takes on a semi-gloss or satin finish. I haven't tried airbrushing it, but reading other posts, other modellers have found the same thing happening. Be very wary of Humbrol Matt & Satin varnishes both enamel & acrylic as many have found you can easily end up with a milky finish. Personally I can throughly recommend the Vallejo acrylic Matt varnish No 70.520 (192) for brushing as there seems to be no matting agent in it & it goes on beautifully, & I see no reason why the Gloss & Satin varnishes shouldn't be as good. Another make you may lokok-out for is Tamiya, many modellers swear by it, if using an airbrush it needs to be thinned down quite substantially, (Maybe someone else can add more info on Tamiya varnishes.). Which-ever way you choice to go make sure you do a practice or check run on and old model or some painted scrap first to ensure you don't ruin you current model. Good luck, and it would be nice to hear your results. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi Russell & William Morrison Your original question "Where have all the ships gone" there haven't gone it's just Airfix isn't producing them at present except for the ones they NEED for the museums like HMS Belfast etc. Some of the new models sold out VERY quickly, and the fact that they are no longer available is proof of this, both ships & aircraft, as it seems Airfix with limited resources like manufacturing and money can't re-run a model as soon as stocks are exhaused. (Like the ski equiped Galdiator I brought last Febuary with faulty decals. At the time still on their shop catalogue, but was told when I contacted them, a few days after purchase, for a new decal sheet that the model was "out of stock". I'm still waiting.) Seems Airfix is concentrating on new wingy things; which helps me with fine quality Luftwaffer models & related ground wheely things as and adjunct to the wingy things. Persumably there are less rescource intensive to bring to market and the customer base is known. I agree with William Morrison's comments and I re-itterate my own arguments and comments from further back in this discusion there IS a market for ship modeling. Just look at ModelWarships.com and see all the adds on their home page, and their new stuff for August. Ship modelling IS alive and well, which is why Tamiya, Trumpeter etc are still making model kits of ships. While I do mainly model aircraft as they are generally fairly easy and quick a decent model ship even a Hobby Boss one, does require quite a commitment in time and dedication to complete; far more than a mere aircraft (Now that should get some responce.) I know that to be true because I have quite a few ships waiting in dry dock, including the Dragon Sharnhorst and to be honest it scares the bee-jee-bers out of me. I'm looking at nearly a years commitment in time. Maybe that's why the old Airfix 600 ships were so popular; in there time you got a reasonable model that you could finish to a basic standard or go full-out with all the photo etch etc if you wanted. ( See my post on the Manxman & Cambletown) But by todays standard they're now a bit too basic compared to the current Eastern 700 scale; although the KGV, Repulse, Prinz Eugen, Victorious, Ark Royal, Manxman, Hotspur, Narvik, and Fearless could be re-issued as all were quite good kits and might just stand up to modern scrutiny, especially if some basic brass etch like railing were offered. As for the rest they sould all be scuttled even the Warspite with those horrid gun barrels (what were they thinking). Maybe some could be saved with some new sprues but is it really worth it. Is releasing model ships such a gamble I think not after all just look at the interest this post has garnered, and ships do seem to be the bread-&-butter of Trumpeter and Dragon and I'm sure Tamiya wouldn't have kept their 350 scale ships available for over 45 years if they weren't selling. As I said before all it takes is for Airfix to have the WILL, and they CAN have a world beater. After-all the Royal Navy must be one of the oldest armed forces in the world with a history of inovation second to none. Come on Airfix it needs to be celebrated, We can always live in hope. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi DavidC I,m really sorry about your Meteor problems, I know how it feels as I've done the same with some Revell kits, So awfull that they were not even worth starting and went straight in the bin, but that won't stop me buying other models from the same manufacture. As for the Trumpeter HMS Hood I see they're now issuing a 200 th scale version at about the $300 mark the 350 scale one is going for $100 or less. Yes I know thar's still expensive, but believe me you get a LOT of kit even in the 350 version. I dread to think what the 200 scale ones like. Last time I looked at Trumpeter they'd just released to Missouri in 200th scale and now I see there's four or five new ones in that scale, not sure about the 350 or 700 series but my point here is that there is a market. And yes I still do believe that Airfix have the kudos, expertise, experiance, etc. to make wonderful models just look at their new Tiffy and other recent now toolings. It's a pity that the Meteor had that problem hopefully Airfix can fix it for future releases. I recently finished some old 1970's kits ie Fw 189 & Ju 52 and I was pleasently surprised at the general fit especially the Fw 189, also building the Hs 123 & 129. the Hs 123 almost clicks together while the 129 has some real problems but I'm trying my best to sort-of fix them. ( Posts later). I just hope Airfix personal reads these discusions and takes note, but I'm going to continue living in my fool paradise and hope we get some new nautical surprise. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom.

Hi guys, Been following the lively debate on model ships. RussellE this question has been raised several times, and always seems to generate quite a spirited debate. Personally I’d love to see some new ships from Airfix even though my current interest lies in the 1/72 Axis WW 2 aircraft. I agree with all, or most of the comments mentioned above, especially the one by DavidC. ( Very neat idea.) Sort-of on that vein, if Airfix is a listed company how many of the guys hankering after new Airfix models have invested in Airfix shares? That would at least allow you to voice your opinions and question Airfix at their next share-holder meeting. ( Oh to be a fly on the wall.). Weren’t Airfix or should that be Hornby looking to raise some capital recently, there’s your chance to make a hobby company responsible to the hobbyists' it serves. In the very early years of Airfix they produced some quite interesting historic sailing ships in a very small scale, ( I believe the Santa Maria or Mayflower were actually in 1/350 scale. Looked for one when I was doing the Tamiya US Missouri for size comparison, but it was like hens teeth.) and certainly by today’s standards very crude but still cute. These little kits were ideal models for beginner’s and still are in that market segment, with maybe some small tweeking. Maybe the 600th range could benifit with some tweeking, replacement sprues etc, avoiding the complete re-tooling costs. The 600th scale range came into being in the late 50’s or early 60’s and again for their time were great kits and even now with the advent of photo etch still can be made into decent models; bit fiddley with the PE, and not suitable really for old-timers like me, with failing eye-sight. ( See my post on the Manxman & Cambletown. ). I still have a few 600th ships in my stash (3 in various stages of construction, whether I’ll actually finish them is doubtful.) and several 350th scale which I now prefer. These are all Trumpeter, except the Dragon Sharnhorst; which quite frankly scares the bee-gee-bers out of me. My point here is, there are quite a few companies continually producing 350 ( & 700th ) scale ships from the relatively inexpensive, simple ones from Hobby Boss to the expensive super kit models from Dragon, ( I believe there’s a rumour that the Sharnhorst is being re-released in an earlier fit.) and Academy and Trumpeter some here in the middle and all still releasing new models constantly adding to their range. Tamiya recently put out two new models of Japanese cruisers ( at typical Tamiya prices?) and have revamped the Missouri to a Gulf war fit. So there is a market out there for Airfix to tap into. I can’t help feeling that the Belfast, Victory and Cutty Sark models still being available is that they’re good good sellers at the real ships exhibition places. ( Must be grateful for small mercies ). A local model shop has just received the re-issuing of both these Airfix Victory and Cutty Sark models, and I’m very tempted to try one, especial;y after reading the above comments. My point again is there is a market for model ships of all types and all scales and prices, ( Just look at the continual selling of Billing etc wooden ships kits and the various online ship modelling forums.) all it needs is the will to take the bull-by-the-horns and and Airfix could or should that be CAN have a world beating kit. Trumpeter did it with the HMS Hood that’s; with all it’s faults; still selling, (Can’t help feeling Airfix missed the boat [ pun intended ] on that one.) and have since released several WW2 RN ships to universal applause. I see I've not mentioned the 1/72 scale launches Airfix made, these still stand up well by today's standards, and none have been done by other companies, so could be prime candidates for re-releasing. So Airfix can revive their place in the model ship market, they have the kudos, they have the expertise, they have the experience, they have the loyalty, and there is a market. All they need is the WILL. Come on Airfix you CAN do it. That’s my tuppence-worth. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Thanks Heather. Part two Decals and final assembly. Now for some clever bits, the decals. I have some very old Letterset dry decals from the 60’s so decided to see if they still worked. Tried an upper wing cross first only to find it worked in bits and the backing plastic foil just broke with the rubbing, the damaged decal easily removed with selotape. Tried a second one only this time covering the whole decal with selotape and sticking it onto the model, then rubbing down with a roughly sharpened brush handle, then gently lifting one side of the selotape to see if it worked. I was able to replace the decal back down in register and rub down the odd bits that hadn’t stuck, and it worked. I now have a method of using my old Letterset dry decals. Decal-ed the wing crosses and the tail swastika using these old dry decals; no carrier film, no silvering and a totally matt painted on finish. Why these decals are not used more often I’ll never know, as they’re in many cases far better than the old water-slide decals. I did see somewhere that there’s a new decal that’s a cross between the two in that the decal is first a water-slide, but with a plastic top film that’s removed once the decal has dried on the model, again leaving no backing film. The remaining decals were made-up by me in Corel Draw and printed out onto Bare Metal Foil (Micro Sol.) decal laser paper, one whole sheet of US letter size costing R5 (that,s about 26P in UK money) plus the cost of the decal paper. When I made the decals to be printed I made plenty of stencil and walkway markings with loads of duplicates and other decals for some upcoming builds, not bad for 25P. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Other%20German%20Markings%20amp%20Stencils%20Decals_zpsw8hs7opp.jpg Photo of my 25P decals. Plenty of spares. Decals applied over glossed areas then covered with Vallejo matt varnish, ( If you’ve never tried this matt varnish, do so its far superior to that clouding Humbrol stuff and it’s water soluble. ) the stencils were placed with a combination of whatever of references I could find and common sense or what looked right. Time to finish off with the final bits like propellers, undercarriage; one small aside the undercarriage is made as un-weighted, the trailing arms should be at right angles to the main legs if supporting the aircraft on the ground, and not drooping at 30 degrees as modelled; the only thing I had to add was the aerial under the fuselage made from stretched sprue as Airfix had omitted to include it. Some Fw 189’s did have an aerial on the canopy top, so check your references. Final piece glued on was the pilot tube, just a few touch-ups and add some weathering, when you check photos of the Fw 189 you’ll notice that as it was in such demand they were invariably very grubby and weathered.I tried a new way of weathering this model using oil paints and he dot method, saw demo-ed at the club recently so thought I’d give it a try. Used Yellow Ochre on the under-side to grubby it up a little, and Lemon Yellow and Viridian plus some White were I’d over done it on the winter white camouflage, then added Burnt Sienna streaks under the wing and cowling to indicate the muddy environment. Not to sure the result was totally what I wanted or if it’s that much better than dry-broshing, but it certainly holds some promise; more practice needed. Exhaust and gun port stains were done with some cheap metallic make-up mascara and Tamiya pigments. Yes I did buy the mascara especially for this type of thing; word of warning; do not try this with your sister’s, wife’s, girl friend’s make-up if you value your models and or life. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Airframe%201_zps6al3maut.jpg See green contrast on starboard wing tip & tail-plane. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Airframe%204_zpsc3x9sjwu.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Airframe%205_zpswpjonj4f.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Centre%20Nacelle%201_zpsjzymo7fa.jpg Very crowded crew compartment. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Centre%20Nacelle%202_zpsqji2wud1.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Centre%20Nacelle%203_zpsk90hzxt8.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Centre%20Nacelle%2010_zpsg0dp5fhy.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Centre%20Nacelle%2011_zpsknmmh0nc.jpg I must admit I really enjoyed this model and would recommend it whole heartedly certainly one of the 70’s Airfix better efforts. Even though it’s now deleted form their catalogue It certainly bears re-releasing at a later date, I doubt that Airfix will retool the whole model, but they could easily up-date it with a few extra sprues, and there is a real plethora of camouflage options. A fresh sprue for new clear parts just make the new one thinner and a touch smaller, and a new sprue for the interior would go a long way to improving the basic kit, and if they could include the camera and scribe the inside of the wing centre section with a cut out for the camera window the reconnaissance version could be modelled quite easily, and some smaller (1/76) crew . Even though not many versions of the real thing were made, Airfix could easily do them all; the A-2 was basically the same as the A-1 only with twin defensive guns, they could even do the night fighter version, and with a new centre fuselage include the trainer and the experimental ground attack version without the expense of a complete re-tooling. Come on Airfix you could have four new models with minimum lay-out. Suppose we can live and hope. The final result.I haven't rigged the wire from the airial to the tail-plane not sure if it's worth it, maybe do it later. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20final%201_zps7jjmlhnp.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20final%202_zps0295ocwk.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20final%203_zpsdwy8rxmu.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20final%204_zpsfjloi6xb.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20under%20side%20final%201_zpsiwmaztmq.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20under%20side%20final%202_zpssqir09kf.jpg Mascara gun stains came out well. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20under%20side%20final%203_zpsiwsn0vbd.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20under%20side%20final%204_zpsdqsa5uye.jpg Supposed to show exhaust stains but the light is catching it wrong making high-lights That's it hope you enjoyed mu Uhu Eagle Eye, and maybe given some inspiration. All comments welcome. So what’s next; as mentioned at the start I have dug out the Henschel 123 and 129 from the stash, and as I seem to be on a roll with winter camouflage I’ll probable be doing those also in many shades of white. Maybe add a few 109’s, a Ju 87 and or 88, a Do 17Z ( old Frog or Monogram ) I’ve even found a He 177 in winter camouflage now that should be an interesting challenge. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom.

Not sure when I brought this kit but it must have been in the early 70’s, as it was only first issued in 1970, it,s since then been waiting in my collection of to-be-built kits I think it must have been in the red stripe packaging but that has long been discarded. When I’d finished the Ju 52/3M floatplane I was digging through my kits and came across the Fw 189, Hs 123 & the Hs 129, they all seemed interesting the only one I’d built before being the Hs 120 way back when, so they’re are all now waiting on my work table. I was going to try a Dragon Arado 234 variant but decided as I enjoyed the old Ju 52 winter camouflage so much, I’d stay with the theme and continue with the Fw 189, so’s here’s my attempt at the Eagle Eye. Just decided on the Fw 189 when I saw the write-up in the Work-Bench section of this forum and took it as a sign that the Fw 189 was the right choice. So Mr work bench writer / blogger if any of these photos appeal to you feel free to use them. Finished photos will be part two of this build. After some basic research I settled on a fairly simple winter scheme of a Fw 189A-1 4E+MK of 2(H) Augk1 Gr13 at Brinokmisk Russia in 1942. The scheme is one of several schemes featured by Authentic Decals in their set for the Fw 189. I’ll not go into detail about the Fw 189 Uhu as it’s readily available on the web. I did learn that it was one of the more successful Luftwaffer aircraft so much so that the Russians operated captured examples, and were so impressed with it they even copied the design for their own air-force only they made theirs bigger and with big radial engines. You could even argue a case that the Americans also sort-off did the same with the Bronco. I saw somewhere that someone commented that the model looks quite small and delicate, when in fact it’s slightly larger then the Lockheed P-38 Lightning. Even though the kit was first issued in the 1970’s it’s certainly one of Airfix’s better efforts and a credit to the designers back then. It has since been issued by Italeri and now Revell, Aoshima and MPM all in 1/72 scale, plus a whole slew of 1/48 and 1/32 scale models. The Fw 189 was still available until fairly recently from Airfix, but I see it’s now been deleted from their range, Pity as I would love to get another one, maybe I’ll have to try the Revell one, which I’m led to believe could be a re-boxing of the Italeri issue. Any way on with the build. This starts with the interior which is rather basic, and Airfix have made a small blunder with that , in that the floor piece goes right through the fuselage with a step up just behind the radio operator’s position thereby reducing the already limited space where as should drop down. Fairly easily fixed just cut the floor just behind the step up and use the fuselage as the floor, unfortunately I didn’t realise this until I’d made the whole assembly. The crew figures are good even though the radio operator is an amputee, but the rear gunner is totally wrong, looks like he’s been seconded from the He 177 crew set complete with oxygen mask and helmet, he was sent back to his unit and a Revell infantry man commandeered as a rear gunner. With all that glazing the interior cry's out for something to be added, This I’ve added, many being generic using photographs or builds from the web, I tried to add the panel that runs along the top of the canopy, but it inferred with the pilots head. ( Maybe a case for 1/76 scale crew. I often feel that Airfix crew figures are too big and would be better at 1/76 scale. ) Various instrument panels were added from Evergreen strips ammo drums for the machine guns cut from stretched sprue, and like-wise the various flare tube etc. While not much can be seen through the thick canopy parts the bright colours of the various bits do show and add quite a bit to the final very crowded result. I know that a brass-etch is available and seeing the results in another build looks very impressive, I decided to scratch what I comfortable could. Note to Airfix: If you re-release this model how’s about some new sprues for the canopy and interior. The interior was painted up in the usual colours, and the canopy hand painted with-out masking, each piece taking about half an hour then cleaned up where needed with cocktail stick, came out better than I’d hoped. The wings were assembled after first gluing some silver foil inside for the landing lights. The twin booms added together with the tail-plane and wing centre section the assembled central fuselage slotted into place to ensure all was true. I must say I was very impressed with the general fit of all the parts there almost clicked into place when dry fitting, unfortunately when it glued the wings together I used some clamps (not that they were needed) and managed to slightly skew one wing a touch,which messed up the superb fit of the central fuselage,but some judicious sanding and Evergreen strip sort-of fixed that; (Do not use clamps they’re not needed.) the undercarriage doors were added; I do like the way the doors are engineered makes assembling them a breeze just a pity some detail couldn’t have been added. Similarly with the engine cowlings , where’s the exhaust, I take it’s those small bumps either side under the cowlings, come on Airfix you can do better. The underside was airbrushed with Vallejo pale grey blue No 153 which equates to RLM 76 after first masking the landing lights, and after some rough masking the top of the wings, booms and tail-plane shot with Tamiya matt white the central fuselage was brush painted, then the remains of the green splinter camouflage added by brush using Vallejo German Camouflage Dark Green No 97 which is half a shade lighter than black green, and Luftwaffer Camouflage Green No 86 to get some contrast with the two greens. These greens might not be really true RLM colours but there are near-enough-to-jazz that it makes very little difference and helps with the scale effect of very dark greens, if you check out the photos you’ll there is a some contrast between the two. The yellow theatre bands and wing tip were masked out and Humbrol yellow brushed on. That sort-of completed the painting apart from the undercarriage bays, undercarriage, bombs, guns etc which were painted in the usual colours, ready for final assembly. the landing lights and the rear gunners small windows will be glazed with Krystal Clear on final assembly. Some photos of the of the central fuselage http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Interior%201_zpsxdd3ocoa.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Interior%203_zpsuwypezyw.jpg Control stick not installed can only be done after pilot is secured in place. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Interior%205_zpsmvkv2u9m.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Interior%207_zpsyssfxzjq.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Interior%20amp%20Crew%201_zpsaunnv1gl.jpg The airfix crew. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Interior%20amp%20Crew%203_zpsjsyjbcfn.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/idiotone/Eagle%20Eye%20Fw%20189A%20Uhu/Fw%20189%20Interior%20amp%20Crew%204_zpsjya9a9vl.jpg Crew and seconded infantary man only place in position for photo. Couldn't get rid of that top seam as the roof was slightly concaved even though I tried. More to follow hope you enjoyed it so far. All comments welcome. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom.

Hi Ratch. Nice Scharnhorst (double post ?? ) Made this when it first came out, but somehow it left me sort-of dissapointed can,t remembert why now. Yours looks better maybe it photographs better than seeing it in the flesh. Now wish Airfix could re-release it maybe I'd give it another go. I still have the Dragon 350 scale one waiting to be built, but to be honest it sort of scares me. Maybe one day. Thanks for the Scharnhorst and keep them coming Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Wow! This really is a magnum opus. Well done Ratch. There really seems to be no limit to your modelling prowess. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Amazing how those shows have lasted, wish I could get them on CD in SA but alas. Still groving to Jackson Browne, Mike Oldfield Tony Cox & Steve Newman if you've never heard of the last two and like really good acustic gitar try them on U-Tube. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Looking good Ratch. Another solid good looking build. I know the kit's no longer available, but a little How-To would be interesting. A little while ago I did post on seeing this kit for sale at a Cape Town model shop and recieved an answer for details as the shop owner did say he would post it world wide. Haven't heard any more. Thanks for sharing this model I must admit to being tempted but in the end gave it a miss. Remember vwe do this for fun John the Pom

Very nicely done, the mozzie is such a photogenic aircraft and you photos show that. Did you have any problems with the build, maybe a short explaination on the build would be appeciated. Thanks for sharing. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi all at Airfix Forum. My last big build was a Tamiya 350 scale usn battle ship unfortunately I can't discuss it here but while I was adding the rigging and concentrating on the brass etch I treated myself to some music in the CD player, Just to help me concentrate and relax, same as surgons do when opperating, and was wondering do other modellers use the same thing. So my question is what's favourite grooves in you CDor MP3 player when your modelling? When I was doing the Missouri there was the gentle strains or Van Morrison, Mr. Zinnerman (Bob Dylan), and Ricky Lee Jones with a few Jackson Browne songs thrown in for good measure. found that mixture very therapeutic at the time. So whats in your ears? Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi lightmaster Re your query on enamel paints, the replies above you should follow, as for thinning you should start with the paint makers own brand of thinners, or you can use "white spirits" from an artists supply store, or try the usual house hold turpentine easily available and cheapest option from most super-markets. One thing I always do with new paints; both matt and gloss; is drop a half a dozen 3 to 5 mm ball-bearings into the tin or bottle then when you shake the paint the ball-bearing sort of re-mill the paint, simular to the rattle spray cans. (an old dodge from way back in the 60's but still works.) If you end up with tins of paint that have been standing for a long time ( 1 or 2 years ) you can make a stirrer from a piece of wire bent to a "T" shape and mounting it in a cordless drill at a SLOW speed you can re-mix it quite easily. DO NOT use a mains powered drill as I have found to my detriment that they never spin slow enough. I have done this with paints I originally brought back in the 60's. Matt paints usually dry quite quickly ( +/- 1 hour ) and should not need any help, thinning or otherwise; gloss paints can take anything between 24 hours to 12 days, but the norm is 24 hours or over night+. Do not use a hair dryer as you will blow dust onto the wet paint, better to cover the newly painted model or parts under some sort of cover; ( plastic container ) your mother's, wife's etc Tupperware is NOT recommended of obvious reasons, trust me, us old-times know; just raise the container a touch off the surface for some ventilation, this should keep the dust off un till the paint has dried. As for brushes you will find the best ranges and assortments at an art supply store, and they are usually cheaper than those at a model shop and you'll have a far greater choice. Sable is the best but very expensive but some of the nylon ones are almost as good and should satisfy all your needs, just buy the best you can afford, and take care of them. When cleaning brushes DO NOT leave them standing on their bristles in thinners or turps, you will quickly end up with bent brushes, first wipe off as much excess paint with modelling tissue, then dip do not stir the bristles into your preferred clean thinners and wipe on said modelling tissue letting the tissue soak up the paint, repeat until the brush is clean. If you brush does start to become stiff clean as before then wash in hot water and washing-up liquid and finish with fabric conditioner; this even works on house-hold brushes and it will bring the back to as new. after washing you brush again do not leave it standing on its bristles, but leave it to dry laying flat. You can re-point brushes by setting the bristles by setting them in bar soap and letting the soap harden, just remember to wash out the soap before re-use. Hope you find this helpfull and good luck. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom Re modelling take that to read toilet tissue; 2 ply of course; or kitchen towel tissue. JoP

Hi PhotoPhil When cleaning brushes I've found it better not to swish in solvent but first wipe as much paint off the brush with Modelling Tissue ( Toilet roll or kitchen towel). Then dip the brush into the solvent, (White spirit or normal mineral turpintine for enamals; do not use the natural turpentine made from pine trees as this can set in your brush as a gum.) or water and/or acrilic thinners and/or ordinary meths, and wipe again on the tissue, let the tissue suck all he paint from the brush, repeat untill all or most of the colour has gone. Then wash the brush in hot water with some washing up liquid loaded on the brush, do this about two or three times and finally rinse with a strong solution of hot water and your wife's fabric softener. Finally re-point the brush and leave to dry upright NOT resting on the bristles. If you have any brushes that have gone stiff with just cleaning with solvent the hot water wash with a rinse in fabric softener usually brings the bristles back to better than new. To re-point a brush with a bent point or miss-shapened bristles try the above then set the bristles with ordinary soap and leave to dry. These were tips I learnt from being in the Printing industry. My father was a process engraver and I was in the Gravure etching and revision so we both had quite a lot of experence with brushes. All the best and hope this was useful if you take care your brushes should last a lifetime, I still use some of my father's brushes from when I was a school kid. Remember we do this for fun. John the pom

Hi Bruce Just checked-out you build. Very impressive and given me food-for-thought. Have you ever seen the RE 8 at Duxsford? Back to pilots: Saw the new Airfix DO 17Z last month, and again all I can say is Wow what a super kit it is light years ahead of all the older model such as Lindberg Frog and Monogram seems I'm going to have to ditch them all, the Lindberg one was only going to be used as a practice piece anyway. Check out the crew on the new Airfix Dornier; with the quick scan I had the crew look pose-able and very very good, and I see that Airfix in the 2 new releases for 2016 the Focker E and the BE 2 both have digital sculped figures. So Please Please Pretty Please Airfix do these figures as seperate sets in hard styrene and with some ground crew. As an aside if you want to see something impressive check-out the crew of the Zeppelin Staaken R.VI on the Roden web site and see what James & Linda Fahey Wellington, of New Zealand have managed to do; that's really impressive. Love to know where they sourced the figures. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom.

Planes need them to fly; fact. Now if you wish to hang your models from your bed room ceiling ( Admit it. We’ve all done that and probably would do again if the wife would only let us; even if only to hide from close inspection those models we’ve made that we made for fun and not to ultimate accuracy). You are going to need a pilot of some sort. Most early kits had pilots even those old Frog models except the V bombers and airliners as you could not see inside any-way. OK most of those old kits only had the heads and were moulded integrally with the fuselage haves with no other cockpit detail; think Frog Gannet and, Sea Vixen etc. Actually those little blobs were quite good representations of the pilots of that time. Even Airfix had moulded in pilots at first ( Spitfire and Me 109? )Then Airfix had the bright idea of moulding the pilot as a separate figure in their WW1 kits and that is were it all went wrong, and to my mind they missed a golden opportunity. Check out those pilots from those early Airfix kits, if you can find one. They were usually referred to as ‘Jimmy Goggles’. As a start they were OK-ish as a boys toy but Oh why did they last so long. For those who have never seen them, think of an anorexic pilot semi reclining with arm at his side or clutching his groin like he’s been kneed there and wearing goggles that Elton John would have been proud of ; you get something of the picture. They really were awful, But at least you had a pilot to fly your plane around the bed room ceiling. Well as the years rolled on not much changed. The Airfix Lysander for instance had a flat filled in cockpit with two half pilots. No better than the original spitfire. Airfix pilots did improve a touch in time, the WW11 pilot put on a bit of bulk but they were still on the skinny side but did start to wear May-West’s and better flying suits, but those poses. About the best you could do was lop of the head and glue it back looking to the side. I still feel that some of the best Airfix pilots and crew figures were in the He 177 Grief. In the late 1960’s Airfix did do a much better job in the Roland_C-11 and Hannover_CL_111a WW1 kits in that the observer is standing and wearing a more-or-less correct great-coat, and the pilot has an arm raised and is wearing a wind blown scarf, and what is more to a more correct size so hopefully ‘Jimmy Goggles’ has retired. I must say that Lindberg, Frog and Matchbox were not much better even the Japanese manufactures in their early attempts seemed to follow the Airfix example. The best pilot figures seem to be in the Revell kits like the F89 Scorpion and the F100 Super Sabre also the Revell Lockheed Neptune had some very nice pilot figures, non pose-able but beautifully sculptured. I have seen some 1/72 military figures that are fully pose-able with separate arms legs and even heads. I think again they are a Revell products.I’ve had a look at the 1/72 scale figures in the Airfix E Boat and the Revell Naval Figures and both are about 24mm which seems about correct although I seem to remember officers were not really known for their stature, and were often dare-I-say height disadvantaged, so maybe a few officers at around 22.5mm would be good humour. Those Naval figures are really well done and a credit to both Airfix and Revell, also check-out the Armourfast figures, very well sculpted and pose-able, so what is the problem with pilots and or ground crew. I have a set of WWI pilots and crew from Dark Dream Studios. and apart from being moulded in dark red they look very good and with some amusing poses, including a lady in very period dress, very nice. Roden seem to be making some very very fine WWI aircraft models but NO pilots. Those models are just crying out for some crew; in fact I did write to Roden on this subject but as yet no joy.So Mr Manufacturer how about some WW1 and WW11 pilots and crews in multi poses or poss-able assembly, after all if the modeller does not want them he can always leave them out , but if they are not included we’re stuck with grounded aircraft. With today's technology I’m sure its possible to include some personal together with all the other optional parts that seem to festoon the current models. Whooooops! I’ve just checked some of my more recent purchases and found that the new Airfix Mosquito Mks II VI & XVIII kit has 2 much improved crew figures and Italeri still include pilots although the Ju 87 is crew-less the Do 217 N-1 has some pose-able crew; separate arms, legs and body. Way to go! Now if Airfix could make some pose-able crew and or pilot sets or some-one like Dragon and Trumpeter or even Roden could give it a go.Remember we do this for fun John the Pom