Kenneth ONeill

Well, according to my references, two Ju86Ds were converted to running high-altitude Jumo diesel engines, and fitted with pressure cabins, designated as Ju86P. One was a bomber (Ju86P-1) and the other a reconnaissance plane (P-2). One of them flew an undetected high altitude reconnaissance mission over the UK in the summer of 1940. So, yes, I could get away with one, but I think I'll pretend I don't! 😉 ISTR reviews from back in the day explicitly mentioning that kit having the parts for diesel engines as an option. This message was sent from somewhere just above and behind Heather's left shoulder! 😇

Patrick, could you give us the manufacturer as well as the product name? It's not unknown for the same product to have different names in different markets/nations, like "Johnson's Klear" (floor wax; qv up thread) was sold as "Johnson's Future" in North America.

And now a mkIV(b) with the under-nose turret as well.

Well, the problem with block colours now is the number of cars with a re-built engine.

Yes, BMC "British racing green" with a black interior also works. The green engine was based on "cars I have worked on back in the day".

At that rate can I suggest "Olde English White" (slightly yellowed white, so that's a use for that old tin of H22) with ox blood interior (burgundy, but it's actual leather, not cloth for seats, door cards and fascia), black for the hood or tonneau, and the colour formerly known as "Russian green" for the engine block, since that matches at least one actual option for a TR4 (and indeed 4A, 5 or 6).

We were all "naff" when we started out. The thing is, as long as you enjoy what you do and remain happy to learn new techniques, you won't be naff for long. 😎 ive already been torough 1 airbrush and have no intent toget anthother one, ime that naff. id rather stick to brushes I once read a review where the reviewer was bemoaning the 2 hours it took to mask up a component for spraying. The part in question was an RH bar end for a motorcyle, with the grip (rubber), brake lever and hood (silk black paint) and hydraulic reservoir (silk white plastic) moulded in one piece. I had the grip and reservoir both brush painted in the time it took to type this, and after an hour for those paints to dry, another 2 minutes to paint the silk black. So IMO air brushes are at best an additional expensive tool.

Hiya. I'm specifically not asking whereabouts you live, but there always used to be some U-16s at model clubs and shows in Scotland and NE England.

@Gordon @Ratch - I don't know which way you searched, but the "registration database" will only show up active registrations. For example, I think "JAG 1" will show as being on a "Jaguar D-Type" (well-known racing car which was road registered with this number in the 1950s). "JAQ 1" may well show on a Jaguar Motors registered car, "THE 911S" might show as a Porsche UK plate (I'm deliberately picking plates that were last heard of by me on famous and/or company owned vehicles). Checking the DVLA "plates for sale" portal might show up "presently unallocated plates", such as maybe "R4 TCH"?

Quick pickup on a couple of points - a twin SU intake would tie the car down to only being a 1750HL, where a single means any non HL 1500 or 1750 is possible. @GNR-Gordon-4 - You may be able to find out what's presently/last on a specific registration number on the DVLA website.

Well, a bloke who lived near me bought a "hearing aid beige" Nissan Bluebird (U11 series) with a bodykit!

If we're going to do a new Jaguar, can we please get the intake doors right? That is closed unless the aeroplane is crewed, engines running, and static or taxiing.

Great build, and also the only, repeat only, time I've ever seen photos of this kit.

If you can find the "Stratos 4" Anime boxing of the TSR2, it can be built as any of the 3 surviving prototypes straight from the box (including decals). I'd love a "flying bedstead", and Airfix have (or had) a P1127/Kestrel tool.

{channels "The Battle of Britain"} Messersmitt!

No camera => no pics, but the old Airfix Bloodhound missile kit arrived. The only "nuisance factor" moulding issue is that the hole for the trailer kingpin in the bogie wasn't moulded.

I presume you mean you have "Microscale Krystal Klear"? If so it's basically a white PVA adhesive that will also allow you to form small transparencies up to about 0.25" square (EG Mossie PR camera ports and landing lights). The stuff that most modellers refer to as "Klear" is now labeled as "Pledge floor wax" I think. The trouble here is that one 0.5l bottle lasts most of us literally decades!

Addition in-line, bold. Also, for the OP, note that the Mosquito is a great start point because it's very smooth skinned and will avoid any issues with re-scribing lines except for the one hatch around the aerial post.

The MB kit is 1/32 scale, and effectively a "first sortie rev by rev" vignette based on the figure poses.

1/24 Spitfire IX or XIV (low back) please? I know some people keep neeping on about another early 6-stub Spitfire but I'd certainly be more likely to buy a 12-stub Merlin or Griffin variant.

And really looking good. Anyone who reads the entire thread will realise that I'd not say that lightly.

That's not actually the case, this clause is repeated several times in the AMO, including before the phoney war period: 'The letters are to be 48 in. high and are to be made up in 6 in. strokes in width. Smaller letters are to be used only when the space available on the fuselage makes such a course unavoidable'. Yeah, but I'd suggest that the "flying tadpole's tailboom" is a classic case of the space available on the fuselage making such a course unavoidable.

I decided to leave the pistons off in the end. ... muddled early in the year. Well, that's pretty much all what I was arguing re-worded (except about spray margins; there I was realising that understanding the spec and model scale actually defines how thick a model's spray margin should be).

As elsewhere, the specs for feather edging RAF camouflage say 1" overspray. This means that the scale factor also states the width of a feather edge on a model in inches. That's about the width of the line drawn by a ballpoint pen in 1/72. I really don't think you'll notice that if you just paint hard-edged camo in 1/72 or smaller. As to the Hampden codes, sizes of codes (and serials) are usually stated as "N inches high" for all types, although diameters of roundels and fin flashes are sometimes given relative to chord (wings) or height of fuselage, and no-one's suggesting that the fuselage roundels are "too large" therefore I suspect the codes are correct. In "other stuff" I thought we'd just agreed that DF loops are made from a circular section and not a flat? By that logic then flat hydraulic cylinders and brake lines would be wrong too.

@Heather - I'll cheerfully agree that a wire DF loop looks better than an etched part. As you say, the loop is formed from a circular section and not cut from a plate.