Kenneth ONeill
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Posts posted by Kenneth ONeill
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I'd agree the Tiger 1 / Firefly "gift set". 2 decently modern kits, paint, brushes and glue, spares (don't throw away parts you don't use) and even in budget.
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It might take a bit of searching, but Airfix have done some MRAPs.
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Firsts - Received HMS Ark Royal (91) Dec 25th 1969
Bought Spitfire IX (JE-J) Jan 1970.
Most recent - 2 Beach Buggies, on re-release as vintage classic.
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Around where I live (then and now) it was generally known as the "cheese wedge" because of the styling and the majority of production being orange.
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...and wound up on the civilian market as MoD disposals.
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Cheers guys.
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Yeah. My point here is that STAAG has to be super accurate because you have to hit what you're shooting at in order to do any damage.
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No photos, but define "oldest". The oldest set of mouldings in my collection are a Tamiya 1/12 scale Lola T70 from the original production in about 1970. I even only paid a fair "builder's price" for the kit when I bought it.
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Does the Revell product actually work on natural enamels (eg Humbrol, Testors) or only on Revell's own artificial enamel?
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Wikipedia quotes Seacat as having a range of 50 to 5_000m (or maybe a bit more guided but unpowered) What I can't see is any mention of the Circular Error Probable for the proximity fuze and warhead.. The L/70 Bofors 40mm could double that range but has a CEP of ~0.
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Well, I just use open shelves. As for cleaning them, buy a blower brush from a camera shop, or I imagine searching the usual on-line fora will find some.
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Andy, thanks for the link. Anything I'd seen previously indicated that only D series were used in 'nam.
As to the high vis insignia, they're the same size as the black low vis.
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Well, I can't find any reference to short tails (B-52 G or H) actually being used in Vietnam.
The high visibility star and bar marking of the period were a standard size across all USAF types.
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Agreed Ant. I normally use Clearfix because I find it has other uses besides small transparencies and gap filling, like it makes a good glue for things like photo-etched cockpit placards (but don't use it on decals).
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Ratch has covered a lot of this, so I'll confine myself to the Vallejo questions. Let me start by saying that I don't really like them, so don't use them much. That said, I don't find that they need thinned when I do use them, but do find that some ranges have some colours that take much longer than others to dry, so it would be helpful if you said which colours you have issues with. OK?
Now, on decal fixatives. Don't use a setting agent unless you have to or it's recommended in the instructions (for example on a Ford or Junkers trimotor with a corrugated skin, or carbon fibre effect decals on anything). If you do use a setting agent, apply it whilst the decal is still wet, then LEAVE IT ALONE until it's dry.
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I had no issues with mine. Is your part 8 maybe short moulded? The prop should be half-way down the duct from both sides.
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#7 - And a new tool "flying suitcase" would more or less complete a collection of British WW2 twin engined medium bombers (The Avro Manchester is not a medium bomber, and wasn't really a success either).
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Dust! tired_face
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It took a little digging, but here's the Wikipedia:
And it's handily been converted into a hyperlink for me. smile
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Hi John, yes the DC3 was a Roden kit. Besides all the Airfix 1:144 airliner range - (I'm only missing the VC10) I've added a Britannia, Viscount, Argosy and Beverly. Only 12 of them built so far ..... so quite a few to go.
FYI, the VC-10 was converted by Airfix from a BOAC airliner to an RAF VC-10K. The retro-conversion should be possible, since I think it only had wing pods.
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2 fairly obvious points:
1) All your photos are on their sides. You should have MS Paint or be able to download freeware GIMP, which will let you rotate them.
2) Regardless of what Airfix's destructions say, Merlin exhausts are a cast iron shade. Humbrol 70 Brick Red is a good match.
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Ok, this is an odd one. The actual cars had metal hoods and chassis rails, fabric covered but painted bodywork, and wood "armour" over the metal fuel tank, all painted in "British racing green". Humbrol "Brunswick Green" is a good tonal match for the shade that the car Airfix based the kit on is painted, but the bodywork is less glossy than the hood, chassis and fuel tank. My best suggestion would be to paint everything gloss, apply race numbers and.or Union flags if using, and then give the bodywork a light coat of matt varnish.
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Looking at these shots, I think the scale of the kitted cars was decided by a desire to allow them to be loaded in 4 lanes (which seems slightly odd when there were only 4 of them anyway, and IME ferry crews prefer to put part loads down the vessel (aircraft? You do need a pilot's licence to command a commercial hovercraft) centreline).
Airfix vintage series 2022
in Wishlists
Posted
Sunbeam Rapier (since it's a coupe or a convertible I'll buy at least 2).