david_hughes2

Really like the Canadian scheme on the F3. I really wanted the Sea-Vixen to be re-released. Beginning to wonder now if the rumours about the damaged tool are true?

Probably the same way airfix new releases go out of stock on the website on the very day they launch. Just the usual shambles. I agree a complete shambles, I have been continually trying to join the latest `incarnation` of the airfix club since it allegedly restarted but everytime got an error 404 not found. I emailed them and I got a reply this morning (6th July) stating "The problem would be sorted out by the end of the day) Well here we are on the 7th July and I am still getting the same error 404! The huge banner link has now also gone. If you go to the bottom there is a link but guess what? Error 404

Another way is make and complete the fuselage without the cabin windows. When everything is dry get a cocktail stick and a clear glue (Like Kristal Klear) and put them back in one at a time. It does work - honestly. Try it on a window before you do anything, let it dry and it dries clear. You will find lots of videos on the web.

It seems that the email notification was hit and miss. Great news if you got one, but not so good for the others. All four are still out of stock. I too, am grateful that they are still in business. When you consider how the quality of their product compared to others 10 years ago, it is amazing that they are. This is presumabley down to their loyal customer base (of which, I consider myself one). I would suspect that the club has not relauched for their fans. We have been emailing and posting regarding the club for years now and the return communication has been poor. The information on the homepage was in essence an inaccurate one liner. The relauch of the club is more likely an attempt to raise cash urgently and looking at how quickly it sold out, it appears to have been a success. Well done Airfix accountants, I suspect they are happy. I am a member of another Forum and a member there has advised that he ordered and paid for one membership and it arrived yesterday, along with seventeen others. No wonder they are out of stock! The accountants won't be happy if this is a common occurance.

A bit annoyed Signed up for notifications, for when the 'new' club launched. I didn't get one. Did anyone else? Now, both types of membership are out of stock. Maybe they have run out of trolley coins?

Johnny I have never heard of coats of varnish between coats of paint (that doesn't mean that it isn't done though). The normal sequence is: PrimerPaintGloss (surface for decals)DecalsMatt or Silk coat to finish As you get more comfortable you can add stages as you like, so for example on my latest plane (Me262) I did the following: PrimerPre-shade panel lines in blackPaintGlossDecalsGlossDark dirt wash for panel linesSilk coatWeatheringMatt Coat to finishHope that helps

Johnny Agree with all the advice here. If you are going on a shopping spree I would recommend a few glue types. Extra thin is a must but it dries very quickly, so a slower action glue is also useful for bigger jobs. When gluing wings halfs I will use Tamiya cement (a thinner cement) on big areas and then go over the joins with extra thin. A super glue (eg Zap Ca) can be really useful. I used it recently on an Me262 (terrible kit) for instant grab on the inside of a fuselage with a large gap in the seam. Superglue is also available in various thicknesses for modelling. Finally, a PVA glue (eg Micro Kristal Klear) is useful, particularly for clear pieces as it will not 'fog' the clear part and dries clear itself. Good luck

I would let it dry completely and then sand it level with the surface detail. Go from course to fine and remove as little of the rest of the model as possible. If you are new to modelling you may not have sanding sponges, but they are a great investment. Reintroduce the gap between the wing and elevator. A razor saw or rescriber would do this, but again you may not yet possess these. A sharp blade used very carefully would do it. Some people love the cement type glues. Personally my model making was transformed when I swictched to the really thin types, like Tamiya Extra Thin. These use capillary action to 'weld' joints together and dry very quickly. Good luck

If you need to save the panel, then I use a scapel. Many, many fine cuts are less risky than one. Both in terms of your damage and damage to your wing. Use 'Dymo' tape or a steel rule (as a guide or stop) if there are no guidance cuts already made in the model. If I don't need a panel I will drill out as much as possible and use a file or sander to make good.

You will need to specify camo scheme for paint references, but in terms of decals: Put a gloss coat over the finished paintPut each decal in warm waterPrepare area with water or MicroSet*Place decalBrush more Microset* over decalUse kitchen towel or cotton bud to conform decal into modelBrush MicroSol* and leave alone, no matter how it reactsLeave aloneUse more MicroSol if requiredLeave aloneSeal decal when finished with matt/satin/gloss coat *other decal softeners are available

The primer is doing its job and staying put, which is good news. Things tend to get shiny when the surface of them gets smoother. Under a microscope there would be less bumps and indents. Running your nail across is taking out some of those microscopic bumps and indents. Use a very fine sanding stick or cloth to get a more controlled and universal effect if you want a smoother base coat of primer. (Or / And...Lower your air pressure, get close and spray as thinly as possible)

i have noticed on larger primed surfaces like interiors and wings if i scratch as hard as possible it only leaves a mark but on small parts like pipes and engine mountings it comes off quite easily , could this be a priming issue? Small parts have more edges. Edges by their very nature tend to have a smaller surface area. The smaller surface area will give your primer / paint less area to bite onto, so is more likely to chip. Ratch's advice is best. Don't scratch the model and treat it very carefully.

The Vallejo website is good and they have a great reference guide.

If you scratch hard enough, any paint will come off. How hard are you scratching? Gently running your nail along the top shouldn't remove paint (though may leave a mark).

Wow! What a great post. I thought it was just me. I found my hand trembling as I tried to connect EZ Line for aeriels on my recent Bf-109 becuase I had actually done some splinter without completely making a mess of it. It got to the point that I needed to use both hands on the tweezers as I held it in place for the super glue to take.

I use Tamiya paint quite a bit and it sounds like your ration of paint is high. This will lead to more cloggs and the airbrush will be harder to clean. You will also use a lot of paint! I would start at 50:50 thinner (X20A) / paint to begin with. I current go 60% thinners (Mr Color SLT) to 40% Tamiya paint.

You should probably try and test on a spare piece of plastic. The general rule was L-E-A Lacquer, enamel, acrylic This means that you would not normally put a lacquer over an enamel becuase the solvents used are nuch 'hotter' than enamel solvents and so on. Key word is 'normally' as each manufacturer uses differening solvents with their acrylics. Test if unsure.

Which RLM are you after? 145 is listed as Medium grey. Humbrol (and many other manufactures) now do a range of dedicated RLM colours (240 - 253). 145 'looks' close to 246 RLM75 Grauviolet by my eye. This is off a computer screen though! Check Humbrol's website

Distance is also a factor. Too far and the paint is more likely dry before hitting the model. Be careful though, too close and you are more likely to get runs.

Lovely build. Clear build instructions as you went - thanks for that. Love the cockpit and the way you posed the pilot was clever. I havn't been brave enough to use lacquer based paints yet. Think I'll give them a try soon. Do they dry glossy enough to decal straight over? Are they pre-thinned? Couldn't find a stockist though. Great finish.

Tamiya XF-86 is readily available and Xtracrylics XA1FF is avaialble from Hannants. Both have worked as intended for me.

Great build and in record time. The photos are super and really paint a picture. Love the fleeting glimpse of the agent / spy / Joe boarding the plane in his European civies. It has a feeling of a war movie about it.

Like I said, pros and cons to most (probably with the exception of Revell which were terrible in every way for me. I only purchased one becuase it was the only brick red I could find!). Anyway Vallejo Air have a large range of lovely colours. I could not get it to flow through my Airbrush without thinning. I normally use Mr Levelling thinner but the Vallejo's hated it and had a terrible reaction, needing 30 minutes to clean the air brush. Tamiya X-20A worked well though, as I'm sure their own thinners would. As mentioned, I am not good enough at airbrushing to guess consistencies, so I need to measure with tiny syringes. The design of the bottle makes that difficult, which is the 'con' for me. For more experienced modellers I'm sure the bottle is an advantage. Treatment all done, thanks for asking. Trouble is, I am now on the UK 'shielding' list which means that I cannot leave my property for another 7 weeks. Hence more models than ever are being built!

Airfix 1:72 Curtiss Tomahawk IIB (A55101) /media/tinymce_upload/6a934c7da3c489bf6f0bc4d0200c8942.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/06635951c3609d07c451ef11c4b9b26d.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/c2375e3e9261a476edcd21e2c7a62880.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/fea3493f1199782c8921bec9639d24e3.JPG

Thanks Peter s and T2B I have been onto Hannants and have taken the plunge into photo-etch! The crew look great but (law of sod) they are out of stock. Back order it is. Love that water. Must have one. Ebay next! Cheers all Take care