ironsides

Same here though this was also the same on the old forum, this is not what usually happens with other forums I frequent and my browser settings are the same for all, it could have something to do with cookies or "permissions" but I cant find anyway of altering that on this site and I believe it is this site that holds the key to "permissions"... However I think the forum might still be a work in progress as well... wink

If you think you need them Surgical Gloves... Any chemist or medical supplier get the right size they need to fit like a second skin, I use them when I'm dealing with some Stains, paints, acid, solvents but not usually for modelmaking but should be ok wink

Ok this is something I've noticed since viewing the new forum: On clicking on a forum or thread latest post I dont get redirected to the latest post, but to that forum thread Index or the start of the thread.The order of the forum threads do not reset as new posts are made. So I hope you understand what I'm talking about, anyone else have this issue? And if not any ideas on correcting it? I visit a number of forums none of which have these issues..

What your looking for is Micro "Round the Pole" and "Control Line" flying models , I doubt that a scale plastic kit would work, simply too heavy, you need something ultra light weight... you would not need the Radio Control component that you'll see in many vids, as the level can be controlled by the prop speed and a fixed elevator... You can check out Utube vids for ideas and inspiration, good luck .-)

Three little dots right hand top .-)

On your PC theres an app called "Paint" it can be found in "Windows Accesories", open the program: Start>Programs >Windows Accesories>Paint, you can use it to resize by percentage or pixels and convert (Save as) your images into all the major formats, crop images as necesary plus many other things, its very easy to use, then simply post the images directly to this forum. If your using Windows then everything is there already in an easy to use format... wink

I did notice your last lot of images were pretty large about 18.5mb pngs (a good poster printing size), this is really too large for a site like this, converting to jpg would produce a 2mb image which is just as good on the average PC/laptop screen and improve upload and viewing times... Unfortunately many posters on this forum upload very large images that take a lot of time for viewers to download, particularly if the thread is well stocked with images as they will all download together, so much so that I rarely take the time to let them complete downloading so they can be viewed.. hence my lack of recent posts on members projects.. I'm actually surprised Hornby hasn't corrected this with their new forum format... wink

I use an Ikea Tertial desk lamp: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/tertial-work-lamp-light-green-30447221/ Use a white light LED bulb in it... 😉

Interesting subject, makes you wonder why its been ignored? The Greenwich Maritime Museum has some wonderfull models well worth a visit...

Usually I would use a very thin coat of gloss acryllic varnish on areas where decals are to go to avoid foxing, sometimes this may include entire wing surfaces (lozenge for WW1 aircraft) and use microsol/set for application as this has proved to be the best in my experience, I follow this with a thin matt varnish on the finished model more often as not Mattcote and gloss or satin selectively if this is more appropriate, I havn't painted many all metal finishes though but these would either be gloss or satin for the final varnish... I should point out that I paint using brushes and occasionally a rattle can for large areas but never use rattle can spray varnish as previously I got poor results... but whatever you do if you can when applying decals allways test a sample first as they may be ultra fragile or respond in odd ways to the decal solution 😉

Excellent, now wheres that stug.... .-)

Back in the old days when the airfix stug was the only game in town, there were articles in model publications on coverting kits to other versions and its likely the PzIII featured, however at one time I had a handfull of stug IIIs that had been coverted too PzIIIs, although I didn't make them I did do a pair of Stug IIIbs from an article which required a completely new superstructor. Scratch building and kit bashing was quite normal for many modellers and gamers, I remember making an SdKfz 231 6 wheeled AC from photos in a book by Peter Chamberlain, plastic card, milliput, copper wire and wheels from Airfix trucks, just before matchbox released their kit.....duh... it was fun to do though and I was happy with what I'd made. These days almost everything is available and there seems little need to be quite so creative... .-)

Depends on how far your moving and whether someone else is going to handle box. You need a box thats big enough to fit the model easily and protect the kit all over with bubble wrap, filling any voids with same, but dont pack it to tight allow a little movement, the undercarriage should not be touching the sides of the box, any loose parts should be packed separately in the same box. Another option is to use profiled styrofoam blocks to support the model in the box using rubber bands if necesary to firmly hold it in place, protect the model against rubbing where it makes contact with the styrofoam and rubber. Make sure you mark it "This way up Fragile". Good Luck 😉

Maybe the test run worked out then 😉

I think its quite possible that the condition of the tool, ease of fitting it too a more modern injection moulding machine, and the resultant quality of the test sprues may well play a significant part in whether any old kit ultimatly gets reissued... I dont think theres any such thing as a free lunch when it comes to old tools despite that the cost of tooling was paid for long ago... Truth is if I want a classic kit I usually buy a vintage kit something from the 60s,70s or 80s, as I find that the kit tends to be in better condition most of the time (less wear on the tooling) but not always, though new decals are almost always required.... 😉

Heres an official reference chart for (Hornsby)Humbrol paints which gives conversions for different brands, several alternatives can be found eg Lifecolour LC16, Vallego 522, there are others in the lists: https://www.humbrol.com/_assets/files/Humbrol-Wall-Chart.pdf Many more usefull charts can be found here: http://www.shapeshift.bg/paintconversionlinks.html As Ratch pointed out there isnt a Humbrol acryllic version but this is available from other vendors... 😉

Nicely Done! 😀

Certainly is a beautifull model 😆

I would suggest going for a debonder: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ZAPPT16 You should be able to disassemble without doing any additional damage, only other solution I can think off would be to carefully drill out the pin and replace with a suitable piece of rod or tube. 😉

Kit building should first all of all be something to enjoy, I've never painted a kit yet with a spraygun and likely never will, though I might use rattle cans for metallic aircraft etc someday, usually I use a broad good quality flat brush for large areas and usually thinned paint "about the consistancy of milk" as Ratch might say, often in two layers... sometimes a light grey or white primer first, I only use acryllics the paint is thinned with water with a small amount of detergent in it this helps to break the surface tension so the paint wont blob, I dont get perfect results but I am happy with them. I think modern Airfix kits are as good as any and probably better then some, I would recommend them. 😉

Very Nice Indeed 😉

Sopwith Dolphin 1/72 FE2b 1/72 HMS Warrior (1860) any scale.... if in larger scale with a decent interior... The Mary Rose would be nice... ina larger scale say 1/144 or 1/72 should include suitable crew. Failing That: Any WW1 or Pioneer Aircraft that hasn't been done to death in 1/72... Any Iron clad warship of HRM Victoria's Navy, 1/350 might work well for a range... 😉

I think the biggest cost is always going to be the Tooling so it doesn't really make sense to use old figures for this, bear in mind Airfix should already have a number of new seated pilot/crew figures in CAD so that's one part of the process already done, personally I would like see a set that contains a variety of aircrew Pilots, gunners etc that will fit recent Airfix kits.. I'm not looking for a large number of poses perhaps 6 would be sufficient to cover most eventualitys... Another possibilty is that Airfix make these figures available via 3D print such as Shapeways at a reasonable cost... 😉

A fantastic build to be sure.. look forward with interest to how he did it!. 😀

The National Maritime Museum may well be the place to start, whenever I was researching Ironclads I used to make a special trip to go there, these days they seem to have a substantial online presence..... just a few plans: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html#!csearch;collectionReference=subject-90352;authority=subject-90352 😉