Potrail2378

Hi, I have decided to have the motor at the front. This is because I have converted the DMU to DCC. I have only used the one decoder, and have used a four pin JST connector to join the two units. I wanted to have a cab light and saloon light, as well as directional lights. Using a standard four socket connector only allowed me to supply the dummy unit with a blue, white, yellow, and green wire - no wire available for a cab light. That's why (with the decoder being fitted in the driving unit), the purple wire supplies the cab light, and therefore that is primarily the 'front' of the unit. Thanks for your replies 👍

Hi, I have had a class 142 Pacer (that I have converted to DCC), with a motor in each unit. It's very happy travelling in both directions. I recently bought a class 156, which is pretty long! My question, concerning the 156, is - Is the motor unit better at pulling the dummy unit (from the front), or is it better pushing the dummy unit from behind? I'm thinking about the pros and cons, eg derailing. Thanks in advance.

Hi, I have just bought a Hornby class 156 2 car DMU, R2694. It is DCC ready, but there is no electrical connection between the two cars. I intend to put directional lights in both units, and I'm quite aware that I will need two decoders. My questions are 1 - is there a part number for a bogey for the non-powered unit. I just want to swap the bogey without fiddling around fitting wipers, etc. 2 - is there a little circuit board with the lights already mounted on it so I can just 'plug and play'? Thanks in advance 👍

Hi all, I currently have a Class 55 on the workshop bench, I'm servicing the Co-co Ringfield motor. The centre wheelset is proving almost impossible to remove for access to remove the magnet. Is there such a thing as a wheel puller/remover? I have always just used brute force to pull them apart. Thanks in advance 👍

Hi 96RAF, and thanks for the comprehensive response. When you say 'exercising the buttons', is that just a case of switching the Elite off and pushing each button repeatedly? And, is the Elite straightforward to take apart - for example to rub the contacts with IPA? Thanks in advance 👍

Hi, I have a Hornby Elite in the loft which I use to operate my loco's on the layout. I don't use it very often, maybe once or twice a month. I also have a Hornby Select in the workshop in one of the outhouses. I recently had the Select updated by Hornby (not sure if this is relevant to my question though), and I updated the Elite via my P.C. about eight months ago. The Elite seems to have forgotten all of the addresses of my loco's. This isn't the first time this has happened. It's pretty frustrating because I have programed each loco, and also 'named' each loco, which takes up quite a bit of time. Should I leave the Elite switched on all the time? What is the On/Off switch actually for on the Elite? Nothing seems to happen when I push the On/Off switch. Also - when I push F0 for the directional lights, the head/tail lights only flash on, then go straight off again. I usually have to push F0 four or five times before the lights come on properly.

96RAF - thanks. Another question, if/when I upgrade to a DCC sound decoder (I usually use a class 37 sound decoder), I would only have a green wire to play with, on F25. I also quite like to install cab lights - do Hornby have a decoder with more than four functions?

Hi, I've just bought a Lima (Hornby?) class 55 Deltic in Porterbrook purple, running number D9016. Because it has triple headlights, I feel obliged to fit three sets of directional lights when I convert it to DCC. Is it a 'high beam' and 'low beam' kind of configuration? And could I utilise the purple feed of the decoder to achieve this? Thanks in advance.

Hi all, and thanks for the info, links, etc. It now runs very, very smoothly. I have changed the following CV values as follows - CV10 - 100 CV150 - 1 CV153 - 0 CV154 - 1 Start V - 5 Other Possibilities - CV3 - 75 CV4 - 20 CV10- 128 CV150 - 0 CV151 - 20 CV152 - 16 CV153 - 215 CV153 - 115

Chrissaf - thanks for the link, I'll play around with the CV settings later today. Fishmanoz - after playing (sorry, operating) the class 37, I turn the Hornby Elite off, and the loco 'jumps' forward about two or three inches.

Hi 96RAF, yes I've soldered the capacitor directly to the decoder and it worked fine. I will play with the CV settings later today when I get home. Jane - hi and thanks for the info. I'll get back to you when I've changed some CV settings.

Hi, probably a silly question but I have changed the address on a class 37 which I have converted from DC to DCC. Am I correct in assuming that I have lost any CV values that I have changed? If so, can you please help me? The class 37 has been fitted with a Hornby sound decoder, a 'can' motor from Strathpeffer Junction, and a stay alive capacitor/resistor. It's very, very jerky while setting off and doesn't calm down and run smoothly until at least half speed. It also 'runs on' when I turn the power off. It was fine before I changed the address. Can someone please let me know what CV values I need to change? I have a Hornby Elite in the loft, and an upgraded Select in the workshop. I shall also write them down and keep them safe. Thanks in advance.

Chrissaf - yes, I did miss that point. The update of the group in the new year (certainly when viewed on my phone) doesn't make that option visible unless you scroll right down to the bottom.

Flashbang - would love to show you, but some messages have been deleted, somehow... Ellocoloco - thanks for the input. I reckon I'll bring my mate down to the workshop and let him sit with me while I do the conversion, after letting him buy all the stuff needed. I reckon he'd be happy to pay £6.37 for a nice drink 😉

Flashbang - thanks for the offer. As a 'fellow modeller' I have seven loco's which need converting. I'm happy to 'buy you a drink' for you to convert them 👍

Hi all, I have converted around thirty loco's from DC to DCC. I always install directional lights, and (money permitting), sounds. I have told, and shown a few friends some of my creations. I have been asked to convert a Hornby class 37 from around 1980 to DCC, and how much it would cost. Considering that the standard Hornby decoder is around the £22 mark, and four directional lights, the DCC socket, wires, and time involved, I said £50 to convert. That, in my eyes was 'mates rates', he laughed and walked away! Is £50 too much, considering the parts and labour? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I have an unusual question here. I recently bought a job lot of diesel loco's. I enjoy tinkering, and I convert old stuff from DC to DCC. I have taken the body off a Hornby Tri-ang class 37, running number D6830. My initial questions were - why has it got two motors, and is this normal? However, upon closer inspection, it appears to be (as the motor trade would say), a 'cut and shut'. There is a seam two thirds of the way down the chassis where it looks like it's been 'welded' together, it's a pretty good conversion actually. But how will I get this to run on DCC? I'm guessing that one decoder won't be powerful enough. Any help or advice you can give me will be very much appreciated.

Hi, I bought a job lot of diesel loco's recently. I only bought the lot for one item in particular, it's a Hornby class 37 - 37072 in BR green, with a large logo. Not surprisingly, the one loco that I really wanted was as dead as the proverbial Dodo! Got it running really smoothly now, but the middle set of (non-powered) wheels on the powered bogie are missing. Does anyone know their part number, and/or the service sheet number for this loco? The little axles are there, just no wheels. Thanks in advance.

Hi 96RAF, and thanks for the reply. "My guess would be the head-code would be lit directionally" That would be easy for the wiring, thanks 👍

Hi, Flashbang. Yes, I've converted it to DCC - I have also put extra pickups on the non-driven bogey. The directional lights are all fully functioning, along with the cab lights. All I'm trying to do is find out if both headcodes should be illuminated all the time, and if so, work out a way to get a permanent live to them 👍

Hi, I have a Class 35 - Hymek. Running number D7063. It's a Tri-ang R 758. Is the head code supposed to be on permanently on both ends? I can get it to illuminate at one end, along with the headlights, going forward, and the head code will illuminate going backwards, along with 'reversing' headlights, but for authenticity, are both the back end and the front end head codes meant to be illuminated in both directions, all the time?

OK, I really enjoy working with diesel engines, and converting them to DCC. To date, I've 'done up' and converted around thirty loco's. I'm working on a Hornby/Tri-ang R357 Class 31 - running number D5572, Brush Diesel. I wanted to upgrade the non-powered bogie to be able to act as an extra set of pickups - so far, so good. Because the non-powered bogie wheels are plastic, and were proving difficult to remove, I simply cut through the axles. That worked fine, until I tried to fit a conductive wheel/axle assembly. It looks like the original axles aren't 'pointy' at each end, rather, the original axles are 'blunt' and that is what made them difficult to remove. I'm now stuck with two sets of metal, conductive axles that are 'pointy' and don't fit the 'blunt' axle holders in the bogies. Can I just use some welding rod and attach the metal wheels, then attach pickups? And what size is the axle diameter - my vernier reckons 1.9mm, is that about right? Or can I just buy replacement conductive wheel/axle assemblies with 'blunt' ends (to which I can add pickups) which will just slot in? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I have just received an order of red, and 'prototypical' white LEDs to install as directional lights on a Tri-ang R758 Hymek. I assumed that the white LEDs would be an off-yellow kinda colour (hence prototypical), but they are just a bright white colour. Have I misunderstood the meaning of prototypical? I have posted a picture of one of the LEDs lit up using a 3vDC power supply. Thanks in advance.

Hi Fishmanoz. Personally, I can't see an issue, but would it double the amperage if I put two decoders in, in parallel? Or is that opening a big can of worms?

Hi, and thanks for all the help and advice you have provided. The Tri-ang R758 is now converted to DCC. However, somebody has mentioned that the standard Hornby decoder isn't powerful enough, is this correct? If so, do Hornby have an alternative? So far, all I now need to do is add cab and directional lights - a job in the workshop for my next rest day.