Potrail2378

Hi, although I like to run my own stuff on my own layout, I would like some sort of authentic running from time to time. Is there a website/page where I can find out what era my loco's and coaches belong to? For example, can I run my Flying Scotsman with my Blood and Custard coaches? Also, can I run my class 37 with the same Blood and Custard coaches? Any help on eras would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi all, I rekindled my childhood hobby a few years ago by buying the 'Mixed Freight' Digital Train Set. This was great because it had two loco's, and the Hornby Select unit. Since then I've acquired around 15 engines, many of which I have converted from DC. I treated myself to a Hornby Elite, but I'm not sure if I'm missing a trick with it. When I turn the select off and back on again, the loco's seem to 'remember' which functions were on. Ie - if a loco had its cab lights on, then the Select was switched off and back on, the cab lights would come back on. However, the Elite doesn't 'remember' the functions. Am I doing something wrong? What does the on/off switch actually do? Why do the knobs keep on rotating? Thanks in advance.

OK, thanks for the suggestions, I have reset the decoder to CV 8 and it seems to be working fine now. Thanks again.

Hi, I have a Hornby R3395 TTS Mallard. I have had it for around two years now. Just recently, when I power down my layout, then start it up again, the Mallard seems to 'forget' what it's supposed to be doing, it just sits there, no movement, no sounds. I have to put it on the programming track from my Hornby Elite and reset it. Any ideas please? Is it an easy fix, or must I reprogramme it every time? Thanks in advance.

Hi, and thanks for all the responses. My layout is up in the loft, and I have LED lighting up there. I hadn't realised that the paint would deteriorate. So I suppose the 'odd one out' has been kept in darkness, meaning it is more of an original colour? Thanks.

Hi, I had three pullman coaches - Two R223 first class, and one R233, these were usually pulled by either my Mallard or Scotsman. With my 'Christmas money' I went on ebay to buy another R223, and (because there are not named) some personalised name stickers. Although it's the same R number, when it arrived, it is quite visibly a very different shade of colour! Obviously, I have no argument with the seller, as we were both working on the same R number. Now I'm left with four coaches, one of which sticks out like a sore thumb, and I've spent my Christmas money with no comeback. Surely, Hornby must be aware of this? How can they give something the same R number, but a different colour?

Hi, quick question please - Is there a DCC sound decoder that I could put in a class 142 Pacer which I have converted from DC. Thanks in advance.

LT&SR_NSE - Hornby R867 Class 142 Pacer Twin Railbus - BR Provincial Sector. There is no electrical contact between the two units. Each one is capable of running independently.

LT&SR_NSE - Hornby R867 Class 142 Pacer Twin Railbus - BR Provincial Sector. There is no electrical contact between the two units. Each one is capable of running independently.

Hi, I have a Hornby DC class 142 'Provincial' in powder blue with yellow ends that I bought off ebay. I am fully confident that I will be able to convert it to DCC, to include directional head/tail lights, interior lights, cab lights and (possibly) sounds. However, first of all I need these DMUs to work correctly on DC. I have previously bought 'can' motor conversion kits from Strathpeffer to convert my Ringfield motors, and they now run brilliantly. Is there a motor conversion for the Hornby class 142? Right now, on DC, one unit runs (kinda) OK, but the the other one is very shakey, as it stops/goes all the time. Thanks in advance.

Hi, although this is concerning DCC,, I've put this in the General Discussion forum. I have an established DCC layout up in the loft. I have a brand new Hornby Hogwarts Express, R 3803 TTS, it struggles to pull a four coach rake. However, when I swap to a railroad Flying Scotsman, R3284 TTS or a railroad Mallard, R 3395 TTS, and add more coaches, they can happily pull a rake of eight coaches. I have 'run in' the loco, around 45 minutes foreward and reverse. Is it just because the new wheels are too clean and are slipping? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the replies, just as long as I'm not missing anything.

Hi, maybe I'm missing something, but whenever I post a subject (usually in the DCC section), and someone replies, then am I supposed to get a notification that there has been a response? Not that it's too much of an issue, but I would prefer it if I got a notification, rather than log on to look and find there's nothing to look at. Thanks in advance.

Just out of curiosity, are the 142 motors the same as Scalextric motors?

Going Spare - thanks for the info, the 142 is due to be delivered on Wednesday, so I'll open it up and have a look. If it's only the one motor, would I then need to hard wire between the two units for the directional lights? I reckon I could use a decoder in each unit and address them both to the same number.....?

OK, I've bought a class 142 Pacer off ebay, here's the description - "OO Gauge Hornby BR Class 142 Pacer Diesel 2-Car Unit in Provincial livery R867" Is this a two motor unit, and has it got plenty of pickups? Apart from that, I'm more than happy to convert it to DCC, and fit interior and directional lights. Next question, which has just sprung to mind - is there a sound decoder suitable for the 142? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I'm wanting to buy a class 142 Pacer. Are the motors all that good or is there an upgrade available (like the Ringfield Strathpeffer conversion)? I'm also wanting to convert it to DCC, but want to get it running properly on DC first. Thanks in advance.

Hi, I'm looking at getting a 'Hogwarts express' for a Christmas present. I've been looking on ebay, and there is a large selection to choose from (different variations for each Harry Potter movie). I enjoy 'tinkering' in the workshop, I'm pretty good at soldering and modifying stuff. I now have some of questions for you... Are they pretty much all the same? Which one is easiest to convert to DCC? Am I just better off getting a new R3803TTS? What's the difference between a Hall and a Castle? Thanks in advance.

The Duke 71000 - thanks for the tip, which I have modified. I cut the loop off, and used the Dremmel to cut down to the air tanks. Then I drilled out the couplings from a scrapped track cleaner (the old one, with the strip of material that you soak with IPA and it drags underneath the track cleaner), then drilled holes in the original coupling and used track pins to screw them together. Perfect! Cheers.

ColinB - thanks for your time searching this out, but it's just not what I'm looking for - I need the metal hook which attaches to this. And no, it wasn't me who was pushing coaches around with the front of the HST! Going Spare - you're on the same wavelength as I am. All I'm trying to do is get the two units running together on their own. Right now I've cannibalised an old wagon for its hooks, it's still in the workshop right now, but will be on the layout tomorrow.

Hi, I'm wanting to fit interior lighting to some teak, and BR blue coaches. I will be changing the wheels on the coaches and fitting wiper style pickups (if there's a better way, please let me know) My question is - are all Hornby metal wheels the same size? I've seen the R8096, R8097 and R8098, plus a few more, but are they all the same size? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I have quite a few Hornby Mk1 coaches spare. I would like to paint some up in Hogwarts coach colours for when I eventually get a Castle/Hall. Is there a code for the paint? If not, is it just a maroon colour? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I have two Intercity 125s sets - two power cars and two dummy cars. They don't have any couplings on them! I would like to be able to run a power car and a dummy car together, just on their own, but they will not couple without a coach in between them. Any part numbers for an extra coupling, etc would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

Hi, and thanks for all your information and support. Fishmanoz - I followed the links you posted earlier on, concerning CVs and I had a lot of success! I set CV 150 to 1 CV 153 to 80 CV 154 to 25 It works brilliantly now, thanks again.

Hi, as I said in my (second) comments, I have fitted a 'can' motor as a kit from the guys at Strathpeffer. Does this use less current?