ColinB

I know on all mine I moved the decoder to the tender, there isn't much room in the loco for anything plus I broke one set of valve gear trying to get it in the loco. The big issue is because they changed the tender fitting you cannot use a later tender base.

I think you can do that on Paypal, the only issue probably is there is a time limit on PayPal so in a lot of cases where you wait 2 years or more, PayPal will have cancelled the transaction.

Actually DarkRedCape the 21 pin is much easier circuit board to solder to. You can buy some of them as spare parts ( I fitted one in a loco I converted), it is a easier task to fit. It fits on the same posts as the 8 pin variety, so basically it is just a change of part and documentation which obviously they are only just getting round to. So has it got firebox flicker?

They do but it is not obvious. On the checkout menu there is a button "other ways to pay", it then gets displayed. You probably missed it as would I, if I wasn't particularly looking for it.

So is it a retooled version or just a rerun of the previous model?

That has got to be the most amazing answer I have seen, so all of this is to prevent an action that most of the user community will never use and if anyone wanted to do that I am sure that there are tools around that can do that. Thanks for the info though.

I don't know what the reset code really does, other than something you enter when the app asks for it. Probably something to do with the bluetooth communications and pairing between nodes. It will do nothing to the profile loaded and nothing to any of the CVs stored. The only way to change the profile is to download a new one and wait 20 minutes for it to do it. Setting CV8 to 8 will reset the decoder as with any other decoder other than a LaisDCC. As you gather from my posts I consider it to be an issue that needs fixing.

No, thirdline it shouldn't, just takes the decoder out of the app. There again that is another reason for unlinking it and deleting it with the loco not on the track, because if it is not being powered the app can't do anything to the decoder. Even so, even if it was powered then it won't do that. I don't know why the device comes up as resettable and I suspect nobody else does except the person who wrote the code, otherwise they would have fixed it ages ago. The big issue is the person who wrote this didn't understand how some of us would use it.

The issue you have with that is as in my case, loaded the profile for the device set it to DCC, the loco is now either in its box or on the main railway. I don't need the bluetooth setup anymore, so I want to delete it, if I want to use it again I would power it up and do a rescan and then load everything again. I currently have 5 HM7000s probably once I have finished (finances permitting) I will probably have well over 20, so it will probably start to have issues on the smartphone screen. According to your description if I do a rescan, then I would get a resettable condition. As to the three, normally what you would do is have a pop up box that explains what the consequences will be with a yes/no or confirm/cancel option. It sounds like deleting the App and reloading it wasn't such a silly idea. Anyway now I know, thanks for the info.

That explains a lot. Ok why 3 times?

Thanks 96RAF for the advice, I eventually figured that out and did manage to delete one of them. The "Unlink and Delete Device" is the one that never seemed to work always coming up with an error. Unfortunately the easiest solution is delete the whole App and reload it, that way you delete everything. For people like me that only use the App to load profiles, having a screen full of obsolete devices just causes confusion, but then perhaps that is just me.

Thank you Daedalus for your support, I remember it was you that pointed me in the right direction. I thought the same but I honestly am getting fed up arguing. I am tending to now take the view that I know how fix most things and if you don't want my advice then so be it. Yesterday I was trying to delete devices that I no longer use, I imagine if you find the right combination in the menus then you can do it, but buttons that indicate delete don't seem to work. The App works well enough for what I want to do so I suppose that is it.

Thanks for explaining that SteveM6

So SteveM6 do you get that screen if the device displays as resettable? I must admit I never noticed I was more interested in fixing the error. 96RAF it uses the full address to reset. The next question is, if it is in the App why does Hornby waste their time sending it to you.

I must admit I find it difficult to believe it is the loco but you never know. If it wasn't a HM7000 it could be the decoder not sitting flat on the socket and the two loudspeaker pins not connecting properly, but with the HM7000 it connects via its own connector. I suppose if there is a short between pins on the 21 way socket it might cause issues. If the motor is drawing too much current it might cause issues but these locos are usually pretty good. I have used TTS on mine (rewired for 21 pin) and they work perfectly, HM7000 is supposed to have a higher current limit so should be ok.

I was playing around with the app just now and I suddenly remembered why I deleted the App and reinstalled it. The delete function although it sort of works is not that brilliant. If you want to get rid of all your scanned devices, you can do it but it is not that easy, hence the delete App and reinstall.

Ok then SteveM6 if the App displays it (which I must admit I have never noticed) why does the App do nothing with it. Either way it makes no difference, hopefully I won't run into the issue again and if somebody has the same issue they can follow your advice.

The HMDCC doesn't give you the resettable code, that comes directly from Hornby via an email. As to pairing, I didn't mention using anything other than the Hornby app. Perhaps a better answer would be as to why it comes up as resettable in the first place, then there wouldn't be any need for all this.

Sorry SteveM6 I doubt it can do that. If you use the wrong reset code it will just come up with an error. I doubt non technical people would do it anyway. The Bluetooth search tool is pretty obvious, it comes up with the name of the node, I think when I did it, it was pretty obvious it was the HM7000 node. You can only use the Hornby App to link, the search tool is only useful for trying to get the Reset code, which it appears it appears is its Bluetooth node address. You only need to use it if you don't have the reset code. For a start the App should be doing this anyway, with me it was doing it on a brand new device and if I remember rightly it took many attempts to get it to work properly.

Reading your description, you have tested the speaker in another loco but not the HM7000. I assume you haven't got another loco with a 21 pin socket. Assuming that you have connected it properly and from your posts it appears you have, then it sounds like there is a fault with the decoder.

No it is not necessary to use a third party app to find the address, it is just a help. It was recommended to me by someone on this site and it has proved extremely useful, especially as in my case the mail from Hornby with the Reset code arrived later that the HM7000 delivery.

Hornby seem to mail you the reset code once they know you have bought their product. If you go into play and look for a search Bluetooth app, this will search all the bluetooth devices in the vicinity. HM7000 will appear with an address separated by colons, this is your reset address. The Hornby app has a habit of bringing up perfectly good devices as resettable, when I was fitting my HST ones, the first one was ok the second one came up as resettable. In the end I deleted the app reloaded it and after a lot of messing about eventually worked. I think the new term for it is Fujitsu software.

From what you are saying you are doing everything correct, as you have done, you just change the setting from bluetooth to dcc. The only thing I can think you may have got the DCC address wrong that you have set in the App, in that it not the right one or the one you think you set. When running on bluetooth the HM7000 is using the bluetooth id, whereas on DCC it will be using the DCC address. I have only ever changed the DCC address when running on the Elite, so I don't know if that could be the issue. You will not be able to damage the HM7000 using the App as you won't on DCC. The only way you should be able to damage the HM7000 is if there is something physical wrong with your setup ( motor wires connected to track directly, short on the motor or function outputs). It may be the App has got itself confused which is why it is not working, so exit the App and go back in.

Actually to be pedantic it is all to do with power factor angle, VA is the volts times amps but power is the volts times the in phase amps. If you are using motors the inductive effect can make a difference to the in phase amps as the current is not always in phase. A typical loco takes between 200 and 400 milliamps so 96RAF is right.

The decoder will work in any loco/train if it fits the socket. The only issues probably being that the maximum current for the decoder is not exceeded. The only issue you will get is that the sound will probably be wrong but all the rest will work. When I fit these to a loco to check they work, I think if I remember properly, the default sound is steam, so when testing one in my HST, it was a diesel sounding like a steam train. So you need to select a profile that is similar to the loco you are fitting it to. Generally the big issue is horns, these seem to be unique to certain locos but if you are happy to have the wrong horn then no problems. So in short it will work, the functions on the loco will work unless it is one that has in excess of 5 functions to switch on the lights, the loco will run, it is just the sound might not be quite right but there again a lot of British locos are made by foreign manufacturers so it could be right.