TrainDriverJ

RAF96 Thank you for taking this further and clearing it up. I suspect it would have caused ongoing confusion and mishap. I have politely contacted Honrnby and asked how this could have happened in the catalogue with such a major reveal even making the front cover and being so popular places have already sold out on pre order.

Hi Rod. I actually got mine from Tescos so some crossed wires I think. But it looks like Walkingthedog has got you all sorted. Your not the only one, sometimes I can’t believe the daft things I do. Enjoy the read.

I am just concerned that people are asking sensible questions, (original post) paying for and referring to a corporate publication to pre order, asking advice, and then still potentially having a problem to sort. We are supposed to be good at this, yet we from the above could have ordered different things. Hence my comment about wait and see or keeping stum. How is this good for newbies or anybody? This was a highlight of the new reveal after all.

What do you think of Hornby’s new video Getting rave reviews.

I also am a bit concerned about how Hornby are interpreting the DDC ready and TTS decoder and speaker fitting especially as they have released such for separate purchase. It appears to me that many models will accept a decoder, DCC ready, but not the TTS decoders and supplied speaker without some modification. I would now never assume where a model is stated as DCC ready it is okay to buy a TTS decoder without confirmation first. It would greatly help in Hornby stated which models are TTS ready. We would then know for sure. This could have been adopted in the latest catalogue (shown alongside models), especially as Hornby have hinted in the catalogue that their are more separate TTS decoders to come. You only have to look at how many times this problem crops up in this forum to appreciate some clarity as some people do not want to start changing things. A helpful opportunity missed I think.

I have preordered the ‘Rocket’ and will also be looking to convert to DDC. Hattons promotes its own 8 pin decoder solution but the Hornby catalogue mentions a 6 pin decoder like they use on some of their other models. I am away at the moment so can’t recall the page number. Therefore I would seek confirmation from Hornby before committing to a purchase. Maybe even wait until we have the model in our hands to see exactly what and how it needs to be installed. I have come a cropper before (my fault of course) by expecting something and then finding out it is not the case.

Purchased mine earlier today at Tesco. They are separate items not bundled together as an item. On taking both through the checkout the discount is applied automatically and you get both for £10.69. Not much stock though - at least when I got mine.

Couldn’t resist the Rocket myself, only ordered the none centenary edition though. Didn’t fancy paying an extra £25 just for a box. Although some collectors may like that to keep.

As advised to you above. There is now a newer trackmat and extension packs. Unfortunately, as you have discovered, your newer extension packs do not match your older trackmat. However, If you are determined you want to go with the old track mat design which I believe is Hornby R8011 see here - https://www.newmodellersshop.co.uk/track_mats/r8011_trakmat.htm Then this page - https://www.modelrailwaysdirect.co.uk/old-track-mat/ will give you a list of all the components you need. You will of course be able to use some of the components you have already bought in the newer track packs. Bear in mind the caveats given to you above about 1st radius curves. Not Good!

RAF96 I have watched the video. He is not installing a Hornby HST TTS decoder with its standard speaker attached and it is not the posts that hold the body that is the problem. There is an inner transparent shell which as you watch the video you can just about see. These are quite strong transparent tubular plastic posts that when the body is replaced sit down on the weights leaving not enough room for the Hornby TTS decoder speaker to sit on top of the weights. Unfortunately, one of them falls slap bang on the very thin speaker membrane and could easily puncture it when pressed down when refitting the body. As IJG has said if you are prepared to modify the structure of a brand new model then it should be okay and I do agree that internally overall there is a vast amount of room. So why Hornby why? My post was 2 fold. To point out to the original poster that this model isn't at point of sale ready to fit a TTS HST decoder without modification, which vindicates the model shop. I believe the model is more than likely a beginner model train set. Hornby makes no reference at all to being able to fit Hornby HST TTS decoder and speaker in this model. Secondly, to point out to people that they should take care if they try as they may be going back to the shop with a broken decoder speaker, although since you have to buy 2 and the dummy car has no factory fitted facility to fit another one then you do get a second chance. To be fair IJG clearly spotted this but some others may not. On a separate note to IJG. I have had it running fine with the Hornby HST Valenta TTS decoder and standard speaker with Elink and Railmaster so can confirm it is possible on this model. If allowable, I could be contacted if Graham decides to give it a go because I only needed the one so still have my spare!

I don’t know if this is the same situation as I had with a J36 TTS where the speed slider became corrupt and I had to delete and re-enter the loco in railmaster to get it working. The sounds I inputted worked however it was either no speed or full speed. Have a quick look at my post to see if this might be a possibility in your railmaster in your case. https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/adjustment-of-maximum-speed-in-the-speed-slider/?p=1

No it doesn’t. There are 2 thick plastic posts that stick down from the inner plastic shell that in all likelihood would damage the delicate thin plastic face of the speaker in this position if you were to try and clip the outer shell on, so beware. However, this I believe is the best position once these have been carefully shortened. The model shop is making the correct decision at the point of sale as this is a railroad cheaper model which is also one likely to appeal to (absolute) beginners who again are more likely to want a simple trouble free installation. I would always air on the side of caution iin this situation although further advice from them (if they were aware of how to go about doing it) may have been considered welcome/helpful.

The model shop is correct. If you buy the new HST railroad model the HST TTS sound decoder (which is in twin pack only), as is, will not fit anywhere in the model (although there is ample room overall) with it’s speaker attached without modification to the plastic shell inside the model. The dummy car has no decoder connection (or any connections of any kind) for a second decoder and, therefore, would require extensive modification to accept one. The operating and maintenance instructions supplied with the model mentions that it is DCC ready with a picture of the socket.

Ah, but don’t you still have to buy a twin pack (when one will do) to add sound for the newly released railroad models that do not have any operations in the dummy car. Perhaps giving people the cheaper choice of one may have been more acceptable to some. A discount price for two could still have been applied.

Metcalfe card kits, arguably one of the leaders in model railway kits (whom I would assume want their products seen in the best possible light) recommend UHU glue and the use of a fine applicator bottle in order to apply the glue directly to small parts. Here is the link https://www.metcalfemodels.com/product-category/tools/ Having built numerous card and paper kits I would IMHO testify to this being the best method. UHU is a bit more “rubbery/gel like” than PVA and can rubbed away very carefully. Applied from the applicator bottle you should never make a mistake anyway - if you take care. I haven’t subjected any models to any temperature extremes but they are rock solid and have never shown any hint of falling apart. When finished spray with artists matt varnish. This does not affect the look and will offer protection to discolouring, dust and accidents. After all you have just spent many precious hours building them. If you use the applicator bottle the glue does not set, however, just to avoid this happening if left for a long period of time, after each session I top up the bottle from the tube to keep out any air. Get the UHU glue from “Quality Save shops” or alike as you can pick up really big tubes for a couple of quid. If you feel like this is a method worth trying, give it a go, take it up to the attic, and let us know what happens.

Chrissaf Your information is invaluable as usual. Well balanced, in depth, full of consideration, even prepared to devalue your own version if necessary (which I may add I would have bought one from you at the drop of a hat) and with a conclusion. Excellent. It’s the Peco one passed onto my family for a Christmas present then. Ta.

Ericm0hff When I looked at it on the table I guessed that was what Jane meant however your description is more specific. Anyway got it right. Yes it is the poor controller. I have DCC for my trains and this is what I got when I bought one of the train sets ages ago. I thought it would be okay for this though as I don't have another. Thanks

Okay Done that Jane2. It is actually running quite well now and is completely controllable in one direction. The juddering has also improved in the other. I don't know why but I tried balancing a small weight (none metallic) on top and this has improved this no end as it actually runs all the way along now with this on without juddering. Maybe when I put the tram weight on it (when built of course) it will work? This is an excellent result with all your help from something I would have given up on. I probably wouldn't have bought another for £30. I think we are definitely up to a 9 out of 10. Many thanks. Off for my tea now and a bit of tele relaxation.

Rog I have run it up and down quite a few times now and it doesn't appear to be getting overly hot although I will watch for this. I don't know how long it would take before I could say this aspect was okay. The magnets on either side can gently pull a normal size paper clip from my fingers don't know if this would be considered sufficient? Thanks. John

Okay. Loads more cleaning and a couple more drops of oil. It is turning a lot more freely now. I am getting it to run in one direction from a stop and it's also controllable to a slower speed. However, in the other direction it fails to start sometimes unless pushed and judders along but usually makes it to the end of the track. Any ideas what could be causing this behaviour? It looks pretty damn clean now were it looked burnt so probably no more to do there. Would running it for much longer help? So far I reckon a 7 out of 10 with the help of you guys.

There is signs of life!!!! I have tried it again. No buzzing and it spins slowly occassionally and moves forward occassionly albeit with a little bit of a push from the hand of god. It's not viable yet so I'll keep going for a while with the recommendations. Thanks everybody so far. John

The commutator is pretty black. Can I use a small cotton bud dipped in isopropanol? I have lubricated the spindle ends and the cogs with 1 drop of oil it seems to be move more freely. Don’t know whether this will work? How long do I leave it after using liquid on the commutator before I can try it or is there another method? Jane2 your eyes are way better than mine. The whole thing looks pretty central to me on my desk. There doesn’t look like any obvious wobble in the turning to me. And it looks central in between the magnets. Thanks

Thanks for the quick replies. Yes I have, it turns. But it is not really freely, it does feel a bit stiff. Should it be very loose and very easy to turn? I could put a bit of oil on the spindles at each end to see if it frees further and try turning for a longer time. I was reluctant to do this in case it would cause damage but if it does not I could give it a go. Don’t see what else I can do anyway? The brushes seem okay and move easily in and out but can’t see any arcing? The buzzing does not increase in volume as I turn the power up if this means anything?

I have R3208 Brighton which is still on sale and does have traction tyres. It is one driving wheel with tyre each side. None of the literature I received or downloadable refers to traction tyres, or any part replaceable number or how to do it. Therefore, Hornby must believe that they are there for the useful life of the model.

The applicator that Morairamike refers to above has an updated version now with a negative ion generator although slightly dearer at £22.40. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Power-Static-Grass-Applicator-Tufts-Wargames-Railway-Scenery-Terrain-Loco-Flock/132012559563 I have looked at these a few times and even considered giving Chrissaf's version a go but as yet could not justify the price or the time for the amount I would use it. However, at this this price I might buy especially as following Chrissaf's instructions now looks a bit harder to do. I would be grateful for a few more views on this one if possible particularly from Chrissaf on the perceived value and quality. As on the face of it it does seem quite good and I am thinking of buying one. Thanks