Luminaire

It’s super isn’t it! I have finally fitted my HST with TWO sound chips (dummy and power), and with the TXS it’s big saving vs what I was facing otherwise. I also have it computer automated but getting the deceleration right so it didn’t over-run signals was taking so much trial and error, but with the instant CV changing and no need to put the loco on a programming track every time I’ve nailed it in a few minutes. Superb job Hornby.

I agree with the OP here - this is such a step forward for DCC and sound. No more programming track. Easy sound profile updates. No soldering needed (but still possible). The way Hornby have enhanced DCC for existing users whilst building something new is really impressive. I design apps for a living and Hornby have also done a good job here - and not many companies that had to learn how to do that because it’s not their core competency can say that. Real innovation, and done well from my experience so far.

I understand moderating or being a helpful hobby hero on a public forum is a thankless and repetitive task but there seems to be an uptick in replies suggesting people can only start discussions about things that aren’t in the manual and being treated a tad on the dismissive side. Hornby is an entry brand, and these new products are at the higher end of complexity. Newbies will be blinded by science somewhat about CVs and DCC, and old sweats may be blinded a bit by the new dangled bluetooth implications. Plus it’s all new to everyone. Let’s not fall into the trap of saying ‘RTFM’ when no-one anywhere has ever said consumers are obliged to do that before asking a community for help.

Oh my apologies I must have browsed past them when looking briefly a couple of days ago. I do see them now. Great stuff.

Does anyone know if a TXS decoder will still work for sound only if put in a dummy car? (Will it impact the sound that there’s no motor?) I have an HST set which I want to add sound to (I know the HST sound profiles aren't out yet) But I don’t want to swap out the decoder in the power car (it has a lot of precisely set CVs and supports RailCom)

I’m happy to say trying a different profile (A1/3 non scotsman) worked. I just had time to test it before I accidentally broke off the speaker socket (clumsy me, soldering iron warming up now) @raf Thanks, it’s: 8 pin DCC power from a Z21 Hornby B17 (one of the football ones) (Yes I know it’s the wrong sound profile)

Excited to try the new decoders I installed a sound profile A1/3 Flying Scotsman only to be informed after the 15 min installation and a power cycle that there was problem with the device. Going to the health check as advised shows a warning saying Sound Data Missing. Repeated the process and got the same error. Anyone had the same or can help solve?

Provided it doesn’t get in the way by needing regular re signing in I’m good with it. It does seem unnecessary but I don’t begrudge Hornby wanting to make the most of the opportunities it creates. Would be interesting to read the details of what their policy is on the data - whether it’s just for marketing or if they’re doing something clever around usage.

It looks like the HM7000 dongle and HM DCC app will solve this problem by allowing the phone to talk DCC through the Elite. Theres a very hacky solution I cobbled together which allows the Roco Z21 app or their wireless Maus throttle to remotely control an Elite. But it needs a PC running Rocrail as an intermediary. But for the joy of wireless control of locos with a physical throttle it’s quite fun. https://uk.hornby.com/community/forum/hornby-elite-wireless-throttle-and-app-control

Thanks, it’s still very picky and only goes on the one loop. When I’ve plucked up the courage I’ll try the foam and see if it gets it over more points. The tear pony is also complicated now as I had to run the wires to the tender (adding speaker and pickups) through the hole for the wheels, so I’ll probably leave them out permanently.

Thanks, that fixed it. I didn’t think that did anything other than reset the CVs (which I hadn’t knowingly changed) so didn’t think to do that. Some added pickups in the tender too and it’s running like a dream now.

I’ve seen the helpful threads about smoothing running on TTS decoders and will be following their advice soon, but I have a problem I don’t think is related. I have a TTS decoder fitted into a regular Railroad Tornado. (Speaker wires have been run into the tender but no pickups there). It’s bad for stalling over points as a result, but it also almost always stalls and then sits there even when it’s cleared the frog. I know it has power because of I turn track power off then on it restarts. It’s like the decoder gets into a state where it can’t restart even when the power comes back.

Unless it’s a particularly special loco, with a reason collectors would value it, I always feel like running them is part of fulfilling their purpose (ridiculously sentimental I know). But I don’t own many locos and each one has a story behind it (usually ‘this is the cheap on I bought on ebay and spent hours making less rubbish, and this is the expensive new one I bought because that one annoyed me so much’)

Folks thank you so much. Through a combination of your excellent advice the situation is much improved. I bent the T bracket down a couple mm and whilst it didn’t fix it it did make the pony (yes it’s the front one) less prone to it happening. I removed the (unflanged) rear wheels completely, and that bought a few more happy turnouts. So with some compromises it will now do a loop without falling off the track (albeit in the opposite direction to the one originally planned). So looking brighter than before. Now I’m off to the DCC forum to sort out the annoying stalling! Thanks again.

I bought a second hand Railroad Tornado and it’s turned out to be a bit of a lemon. Broken pickups and more have been replaced so it runs ok (still a lot of stalling) but one thing I just can’t fix is the derailing over points. Every time it goes to turn out the pony truck/bogie rotates off the track and shorts everything out. The back to back is fine, and I’ve also tried slightly wider and slightly narrower and it’s the same on both. This my first steam train (normally a diesel guy), and all my usual anti-derailing avenues are exhausted. Its like it needs more weight applied but with the floating pony bogie that doesn’t seem possible. Any tips anyone can give me on derailing pony trucks particularly?