DJB61

My Bachmann Class 66 (21 pin) was bought before TXS was available so that has a TTS decoder + 3rd party speaker. Recently fitted a TXS to my NR Class 31 as per the Hornby Magazine Jan 24 supplement. As I wanted to retain the fan assembly, opted to use one of the supplied enclosures rather than fit a different speaker which was the wrong decision. It had been running fine however days later and running for 15-20 mins noticed the sound was becoming distorted. I ran it again a couple of days later and initially seemed OK then deteriorated again. Hornby are sourcing thousands of sugar cube speakers made to a price point so they are not the best, so some will fail. All of my other aftermarket sound installations use the Rail Exclusive 8 ohm Baby or Big Boomer speakers which are much better. I buy mine from YouChoos and I asked John about speaker deterioration, and he confirmed this is possible with cheaply produced products. So, my personal preference is not to fit the speaker supplied with TXS sound decoders but use a better quality alternative. With my Bachmann Class 37 (21 pin) the RE speaker was soldered to the PCB but then with a Hornby Class 60 (8 pin), cut the plug off the TXS speaker and soldered the wires onto the Big Boomer. All my sound loco's have stay alive's fitted.

Bachmann seem to be the only manufacturer going down the Plux22 route which puts me off buying their newer models. I have their Class 159 DMU and for that I fitted a Zimo Plux22 sound decoder (before HM7000 was out) from YouChoos which was twice the price of a 21 Pin TXS. Bachmann Class 31 or Accurascale Class 31, the latter I think as its 21 Pin with rotating fans (hope they work with TXS) on the DCC Ready version. Would be nice if Hornby produced a Plux22 TXS but that's probably not on their priority list at the moment.

I emailed Cavalex and Cav came back with this information as I would want to use the TXS decoder. I have since asked if the manual I've seen on YouTube is available in PDF format as there is a DIP switch page so not sure if they also affect DCC operation. This is the Aux list for the loco. Front Light = Headlight Front Rear Light = Headlight Rear AUX 1 = Markers Front AUX 2 = Markers Rear AUX 3 = Fan 1 AUX 4 = Fan 2 AUX 5 = Tail Lights Front AUX 6 = Tail Lights Rear AUX 7 = Cab Front AUX 10 = Cab Rear I hope that helps, if you need any further info please ask. We do have a decoder profile for use with Lokpilot decoders though if that would suit.

Came back to the hobby just over 2 years ago and I've upgraded all my 90's Lima locos with CD motors and DCC. Used the motor kits from Strathpeffer Junction which are mainly 6v so they recommended the fitment of diodes to drop the voltage albeit only slightly. Also installed 8pin sockets as I don't want direct wiring. They all have a piece of stripboard bolted in with the socket and diodes. Adjusted Cv5 and Cv6 otherwise they go too fast and you risk applying too much voltage to the motor. Set those Cv's to 135/45, or 150/80, so you need to test on your layout. They all have apart from one, DCC Concepts Zen decoders with SA's however one has a TTS. The latter doesn't have Cv5 or Cv6 so it's at top speed just over speed step 35. Not upgrading any more of these to sound as I've got newer locos with sound or have fitted either TXS or Zimo decoders including a Plux22. Also made a bigger slot for the front bogie wire (if fitted) as I found they could break off after a lot of running around curves. Picture is of a Class 37 bought in 2023 which was new but old stock. This has also been fitted with front lights not shown.

I went straight to Hornby Customer Service as I believe all Class 60’s are being supplied like this, can some share their experience? So the model came with no ploughs already fitted. There is a detailing bag supplied which was sealed. This had slotted ploughs, pipes and small tension lock couplings. I use Hunt magnetic couplings or Hornby’s version. Whilst I can get onto TMC, they are just going to ask Hornby as they are not being supplied. May have to bite the bullet and get some from a 3rd party supplier.

Bought this Class 60 from TMC for £137 (RRP is £229) in early Decemeber for Xmas and the full ploughs were not supplied, only those for use with a coupling. The service sheet says "Remove coupling pocket, (Fig.1), then remove pre-fitted snow plough and fit alternative as shown (Fig.2)". Nothing was actually fitted, so not sure if this is how all Class 60's are being supplied? I contacted Hornby Customer Service who asked for my address to send some out, then emailed back saying we haven't got any. They appear to be supplied in the detailing pack X5593 but I only want one full plough for the front. They seem to be available on-line at extortionate prices where some are 3d printed that require painting. Does any one have a spare they would sell or give away? Sometimes wonder about the quality control as the rear kinematic coupling (Exhaust end) would stick on one side. Had to file the milled casting so it now springs back correctly so just as well I didn't pay the full RRP. Mod note - Rule 10 - no buying or selling (even giving away) or posting of contact details. The forum has no direct messaging system either.

Converted mine around 18 months ago which was an R072 twin tender FS bought in 1992. My layout had been resurrected and converted to DCC, so this had to be upgraded. As this had two tenders, I fitted a new cd motor into the dummy and an 8 pin socket plus DCC Concepts stay alive. This has a TTS, so a TXS maybe slightly larger and the speaker came from Roads & Rails which was fitted in the corridor doorway. Speaker is adequate but not the best and was a bit of a squeeze even with the external speaker. Original Ringfield tender has been put away and doesn't get used. Hope this helps.

Pre-ordered a Dapol Class 59 GBRf (GM) which was due in March, then told not until 2024. Bought for that a 21pin TXS to load the Class 66 sound file. Have since bought a Dapol Class 68 and temporarily installed the TXS into that and all lights appear to work OK. Cab lights are only via the switches so requires wiring mods or don't use. Been trying different sound files including Class 66, HST (MTU) and Class 31 which is currently loaded. Got a Bachmann Class 37 so may install it into that when the sound file is available. Decoder works fine on both Bluetooth and DCC.

Resurrected my old layout at the end of last year which has been upgraded to DCC. The track is being cleaned with a Peco rubber but still gets pretty dirty overtime (check by running my fingers over the track). I want a loco pulled cleaner so is it best with a track rubber type e.g. Piko or one that takes cleaning fluid? Got an old Hornby R296 but that's no good. One of the reasons for the dirty track may be my old Lima Bo-Bo and Co-Co loco's that have traction tyres albeit have been replaced with new from Peter's Spares. The wheels need to be kept clean to run well. Bo-Bo's have 2 pickups on rear and 2 on the front wheels via the brass contact on the axles and the spring and pin connection. Co-Co's have pickups on both sides at the front but only on 4 out of the 6 wheels. Can these bogies be upgraded however one might say, get rid of those loco's. They run OK once the wheels have been cleaned but after a few days will start to stop/stutter in places even though they are all fitted with Stay Alive's. All got CD motors in place of the Ringfield's. I've got new Hornby/Bachmann Co-Co loco's with all wheel pickups (12) and no TT's that run fine. The Hornby Railroad range is basically the old Lima tooling with more pickups but still got TT's. Any advice on both questions welcome.

Hi Baynester420, As Topcat said, you cannot do any fault finding without a decent digital multimeter. Whilst I've got a Fluke 110 from a number of years ago, a cheaper meter should be adequate. Yes, any loose rail joiners are not going to help the situation. Hope you get this resolved.

Hi ellocoloco, I wanted to get rid of the bright green plastic wheels, wasn’t looking at repainting them green again. A darkish weathering may be what I’m looking for unless anyone suggests they are just left as they are?

Hi Baynester420, A loop of track is like a ring main so a loose rail joiner (fishplate) should not be the issue. I would have said it either dirty track or loco wheels, or both. The track can be cleaned with a track rubber or cloth. The wheels with IPA and cotton bud however before I used that was using toilet paper which will wipe off any black muck. Try this first and see if it resolves your issue.

Have a 92 R.075 Flying Scotsman tender drive which has been updated with CD motor and TTS however want to do something about the green plastic wheels. Can they be painted either by brush or air brush and/or weathered using powders/washes etc. I've just come back to the hobby after 30 years. Any advise welcome including colour.

SQUEAKING – CURED On 23/05 I decided to oil the ends of the axles, if it didn’t work it was just removal of the bogie sides then clean off the oil. I oiled all 12 axle bushes/pickups (blue arrow) and that’s done the trick, no more squeaking. Waited to check this again before posting this update. I only resurrected my 30 year old layout after the Hornby TV series last year. Back then it was ringfield motors, traction tyres, D couplings, plastic wheels, now its NEM pockets, flywheels, stay alives, dcc sound, lights etc. I’ve upgraded all my old Lima and Hornby RF motors with the SPJ CD motor kits and most now have directional lighting. Mostly using Zen decoders with SA’s and NCE Power Cab. Have a couple of TTS sound decoders. Lots to learn in this new world and plenty of money to spend. Happy railway modelling to all.

Hi Going Spare, was away at the weekend so have only just looked at the pickups. The power is applied to the ends of the 6 axles (no sprung pickups) so do these also require lubrication (blue arrow) as its not where the Hornby instructions (Class-31-A-1-A-Diesel.pdf) tell you to oil? Have Peco Electrolube, Gaugemaster oil pen or Labelle 107. This may be the reason for the squeaking, but I do not want to lubricate these if it should not be done although two of my oils are supposed to be suitable for electrical conductivity.