Ratch

Peter, that reminds me of shows a Gaydon. I remember lying next to the runway (beyond the rope to hold the crowds back) and Lighnings sweeping down the runway at what seemed like zero feet, going past and then the thunderous roar following them. Also Vulcans taking off, going vertical and the awesome roar and plumes of black exhaust smoke - ah for the pre H&S days.

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You have to remember that the Airfix was tooled in 1967 (about the time I went to see Cutty Sark), and since then there has been a fire and much preservation/restoration work has ensued. I don't know whether the kit was accurate for 1967, but as a modeller, it's up to you whether you follow the instructions religiously or build it as you see fit.

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The instructions say: 11, 19, 22, 24, 33, 40 & 53

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Thanks very much David

I removed the masking from landing lights, then painted and fixed wingtip lights and the tail navigation lights. A simple base was painted on hardboard. Concrete panels were marked with Derwent Pastel P620 Dark Sanguine, P660 Seal and Berol Colourcraft 12 Dark Brown pencils with markings in Vallejo Model Air 71002 Medium Yellow, applied with a ruling pen. I then took several Airfix figures (and two possibly from Czechmaster) to create a vignette of the aircraft preparing for a mission.

I use VMA extensively and never had to thin them. Low air pressure, good control, nice finish. /media/tinymce_upload/2d2fc1380b5e92e0838a9b20b21ee4c5.JPG

I prime everything the same - with Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethane Surface Primer

To recap, with construction completed I could airbrush the overall black, then overspray with Klear. I then applied the Wolfpak Decals 72-049 Back in Black for ‘Queen of Spades’ 322626. These were then sealed under another coat of Klear, and the masking could be removed.

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Thanks Paul, I hadn't realised these had such long service.

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Getting the decals on. Sorry about the OOF, hopefully the next pix will be sharp.

Personally, I don't use a mask but spray next to an open window (for good ventilation). But then I'm old enough to remember pre-H&S times. You could walk into our factory and get high on the solvents. I loved the smell.

Thanks very much. These are the paints I used: Revell Aqua 35 Matt Flesh = skin tones Humbrol Enamel 102 Matt Army Green = flight suit, seat cushion Humbrol Acrylic 85 Satin Coal Black = seat, mask, visor, boots, gloves, control column, Firestreak AAM nose Revell Enamel 48 Matt Deck Green = helmet Humbrol Enamel 109 Matt WWI Blue = safety harness Humbrol Enamel 165 Satin Medium Sea Grey = ejection seat Humbrol Enamel 93 Matt Desert Yellow = head rest, control column gaiter Revell Enamel 15 Matt Yellow = canopy piping Humbrol Enamel 21 Gloss Black = canopy, NMF primer Games Workshop 61-76 Flesh Wash = skin tones Humbrol Enamel 102 Matt Army Green = ejector handle Humbrol Enamel 145 Matt Medium Grey = cockpit tub Tamiya XF-3: Flat Yellow = emergency ejector handle Humbrol Enamel 186 Matt Brown = seat cushion Tamiya X-1 Black = ejector handle mount, In Flight Refuelling Probe Tamiya X-2: White = handle, Firestreak missiles Revell Aqua 361 99 Metallic Aluminium = interior of jet pipes Humbrol Enamel 148 Matt Radome Tan = radome Humbrol Enamel 53 Metallic Gunmetal/Humbrol Enamel 171 Matt Antique Bronze = jet pipe Tamiya X-11: Chrome Silver = compressor blades Humbrol Enamel 16 Metallic Gold = undercarriage, wheel wells, interior of undercarriage doors Xtracolor Enamel 505 Tyre Black = tyres Humbrol Enamel 15 Gloss Midnight Blue = spine, fin Alclad2 Lacquer ACL-121 = Burnt Iron = jet pipes Alclad2 Lacquer ACL-119 = Airframe Aluminium = airframe Vallejo Model Color 70934/186 Transparent Red = port navigation light Vallejo Model Color 70936/188 Transparent Green = starboard navigation light Vallejo Model Color 70935/185 Transparent Orange = dorsal navigation light Tamiya X-10: Gun Metal = machine gun ports Tamiya XF-1: Flat Black = anti-glare panel, fin tip At this time I was transitioning from enamels to acrylics. HTH

I'd advise you to experiment on some scrap plastic, or an old kit first. Enamels will almost certainly need thinning. Don't think fixed ratios - look for consistency. When the paint runs like milk it should be good for spraying. Don't try to thin the whole tin - decant some of the paint into a cup and add thinner gradually, until you get the right consistency. Good luck and have fun.

Hi Will, I've not seen Sparmax airbrushes, but I have one of their compressors. It has a tank and I'll always recommend you get one with a tank. Not having a tank can result in pulsing; the tank smoothes this out. As for paint, you'll have to try it. I use Humbrol and Vallejo predominantly. I use Vallejo Model Air for spraying and Humbrol for brush painting, but that's my preference. I know some other modellers are happy to spray with Humbrol. I prefer Vallejo because they don't need thinning. As I always say - try it out. Keep an open mind and see what works for you.

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Thanks Chris, I built it for a mate.

I added the access ladder and painted it and the nose, including the framing by hand. Stages 13 to 17 could be omitted for my build. To hide the weights, I decided to fit a piece of plywood flooring that the agent would lay upon. This was cut from thin plastic card, painted and tacked over the weights. Having fitted the nose wheel and doors, and then fitted the bomb bay doors, I needed a further 5g to move the centre of gravity forward.