Ratch

That will depend upon which paints you use. Notes from my last build: (Humbrol code is the number in bold) Admiralty Disruptive Pattern Camouflage, using the following on the vertical surfaces: 27 Vallejo Model Color 70866 165 Grey Green / AK Interactive AK5033 507A Admiralty Dark Grey = AP 507A Admiralty Dark Grey (NARN 21) 64 Humbrol Acrylic 64 Matt Light Grey / AK Interactive AK5035 507C Admiralty Light Grey = AP 507C Admiralty Light Grey (NARN 22) 65 Humbrol Acrylic 65 Matt Aircraft Blue = B.6 Light Blue (NARN 34) 96 Vallejo Model Color 70903 60 Intermediate Blue / AK Interactive AK5036 B5 Dark Blue Grey = B.5 Dark Blue-Grey (NARN 33)

I brush painted around the wheel wells and over the undercarriage doors. The C variant had the glazed nose, so there is no room for my tyre weights. I assembled and fitted the nose section. The weights were set in the bomb bay, as far forward as possible. 25g was required to keep the nose down. I used cyanoacrylate to fix them.

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The history of the Sea King is a complicated one. The original SH-3D 1969 tooling was modified in 1984 to make the HAR.3, which was listed variously as HAS 5/AEW.2, AEW.Mk2/ASaC.Mk7, HAR.5 and AEW before it was replaced in 2016 by the HAR.3 (A55307/A04063).

EMU, did you not get Jeremy's e-mail on 21/04/20

The engines and cowling interiors were sprayed with Alclad Steel and the undercarriage and bomb bay doors with AK Dark Aluminium. The propellers were painted then assembled with the engines and cowlings. Wheel wells and undercarriage were added to the cowlings then fixed under the wings. The fit was excellent.

Before starting assembly of the engines, I primed them, and the undercarriage and bomb bay doors with Vallejo Acrylic 74660 Gloss Black Polyurethane Surface Primer.

Arrived today

06401-4 is the Airfix code, 1403 is the Edai code.

It might be best to mask the transparencies before fixing them in place.

I am building a 1:72 B17G atm with my 2 12 year old daughters - that are enjoying it and are pretty patient. It's only my 3rd model since getting back into it after 35 years. Question : There are a lot of turrets and glass on the model which are going to be tricky to mask when built. So should I spray the fuselage with the main colour before assembly and touch up once the wings and tail are added (and gaps filled). Or do I leave until assembly complete and spend a lot of time masking? Thank you in advance, Martyn

There isn't an Administrator at the moment, and we Mods don't have that access.

06401-4 Ford C-900 & Trailer 1/32 scale. Reissue of Eidai kit number 1403. Available as 16401-4 from 1980 to 1981.

Thanks for your interest. I'm not sure whether I'll use him or not. I fixed the pilot and general navigator in the cockpit then masked the canopy. This was secured with PVA. Moving on to the wings, the landing lights were glued into the wings. The internal surface was painted silver and the outer was covered with making tape. The ailerons were joined and placed in the lower part of each wing. The machine guns were removed from the upper part, which was then fixed to the lower section. I filled the locating holes in the lower wings with Vallejo Plastic Putty. The wings were then joined with the fuselage. I painted the propeller tips yellow. The aerials were fixed to the spine of the fuselage. I then masked the gunner’s window and fixed it. The tail was then assembled and fixed to the fuselage.

Its an Airfix kit, well Airfix reboxed the Edai kit.

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For the best results that eliminate silvering, it is advisable that decals are applied to a glossy surface. Matt surfaces are rough and can capture air bubbles between the decal film and the matt surface: It is therefore advisable that any matt surface be changed to gloss. You may well have read that Klear is the recommended medium, another suitable product is Humbrol Gloss Cote and there are others. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301868.jpg My weapon of choice is Klear. I have got away applying a single coat, but three coats are normally recommended to ensure that glossy surface. It may be applied with an airbrush, but I find a good, soft, wide brush adequate. Each coat of Klear takes approximately twenty minutes to dry, so progress on your build will not be delayed too long. Remember to rinse the bristles of the brush in warm, soapy water after applying the Klear. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301882.jpg What tools and equipment? Scissors – you’ll need to cut the individual decals from the backing paper. Dish – most manufacturers recommend warm water to soak the decal in and loosen it from the backing paper. I’m not sure why; although I always start with warm water, after ten minutes or so in the dish, the water is less than tepid and yet the decals still slip off (eventually). Tweezers – to extract the decal (on the backing paper) from the dish and transfer it to the model. Paint brush – to apply Micro Set, position the decal on the model, and apply Micro Sol. Micro Set aids the adherence of the decal to the model and Micro Sol helps the decal conform to any curvature of the surface. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301879.jpg Referring to the instruction sheet, identify the decal and the position on the model where it requires placing. Cut the decal from the sheet and place it in the dish of water. Apply Micro Set to the area on the model where the decal will be positioned. Check the decal for movement on the backing sheet: The backing paper should be thoroughly soaked (no dry spots), be careful not to damage the decal film, use a soft brush to test whether the decal is slippery on the backing sheet. You will find that the decals from some manufacturers loosen from the backing paper much quicker than those of other manufacturers. Indeed, some take an age to loosen; be patient, it will come off in the end! Extract the backing sheet from the dish with the tweezers. Use the brush to slide the decal from the backing sheet onto the model, and then use the bush to position the decal correctly. Repeat as necessary. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301878.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301877.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301884.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301876.jpghttp://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301875.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301874.jpghttp://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301872.jpghttp://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301871.jpg When the decals have been positioned for approximately fifteen minutes, Micro Sol can be brushed over the decal(s) to ensure they conform to any curves (complex or simple) on the model. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301886.jpg When thoroughly dry the decals should be sealed under a varnish of your choice (Matt, Satin or Gloss). This will protect the decals from damage. Its as simple as that. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/22544305/381301883.jpg

Decals are best applied on a gloss varnish to prevent silvering. When completed the model can be covered with the varnish finish of your choice. I don't use aerosol varnishes any more, I either brush or airbrush my chosen varnishes.

Practice makes - well maybe not perfect but acceptable 😆

Instructions here

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Thanks, I've built a few aircraft that flew from Harrington. I haven't visited the museum for a while. Maybe when all this Covid19 isolation is over I'll repay a visit. /media/tinymce_upload/d6dee2afeb6d015a201d5f8ede4d5d9d.JPG

Nice start. I only live down the road from Harrington and visit the museum often. I offered to build some models for them because they said they were struggling to find replacements and planes to complete the history of the airfield. Up to now I've built and donated a couple of German nightfighters that would have intercepted Harringtons aircraft as they entered northern France. These are minus squadron codes/markings because the museum was unsure as to which German units were used. I felt very priveliged to help. Maybe they would be interested in your A-26 because of its relevance,if you were willing. Enjoy your build.

I painted the crew and selected a spare spy (though I doubt that ‘Joes’ flew in civilian clothes). The interior colour was airbrushed, and details painted in by brush. The interior was assembled, and the fuselage joined.

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