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Ratch

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  1. Ratch

    Carpetbagger

    A bit of background: The Douglas A-26 B/C Invader arrived at Harrington on 14th March 1945 and assigned to No 801 (Provisional) Bomb Group, 856th Bomb Squadron (formerly 36th Sqn). A-26C-25-DT serial no. 43-22626 was designed for level bombing. The C variant had a glazed nose whereas the Bs nose was solid and used for ground strafing and rocket attacks. The C was utilised as a delivery ship to place agents behind enemy lines as part of the 492nd Carpetbagger Group. They were stripped of everything but the barest essentials for low level flying at speed. These operations were popularly known as Red Stocking missions, though they were documented as Joan Eleanor Project or JE Project. The crew consisted of the pilot, general navigator, a ‘pilotage’ navigator and a turret gunner. The agent (or ‘Joe’) was carried in the bomb bay. The aircraft is depicted as she was in April 1945, her fate is unknown. This aircraft was fitted with the ‘clamshell’ canopy. Underwing pylons and all guns except the two remote turrets were removed to save weight. The bomb bay doors were typically left open while on the ground (10g nose weight is required), which meant the airflow spoilers in front of the bomb bay were deployed too. Exterior finish was gloss black with a medium level of weathering. The cockpit interior and wheel wells were tinted (green) Zinc Chromate. The instrument panel and coaming were matt black. Light grey belts and harnesses. Landing gear doors, cowling interiors, propeller hubs and bomb bay were natural metal finish. Propellers were matt black with yellow tips. Landing gear and wheels were painted with matt aluminium lacquer. The kit: Eight sprues of light grey plastic with lots of raised rivet detail and no evidence of flash and one sprue of crisp, clear mouldings. The decal sheet has two options which are slightly out of register, as neither option depicts my chosen subject this is not too frustrating. The instruction sheet spreads over three pages and an additional ‘part 2’ sheet has been included in my box. Firstly, the runners were checked and washed in warm, soapy water and left to air dry. It's a lovely sunny day here and that didn't take too long. I followed the assembly sequence, constructing the cockpit, upper remote guns, remote gunner’s position and lower remote guns ready for painting.
  2. Nice QE Patrick, I have two more in the stash. I'll probably waterline and seascape both but do one in troopship configuration - I have lots of White Ensign Bofors Guns. I did this full hull one a few years ago, and rather crudely. /media/tinymce_upload/654aecf83e6d6942c9fb9441a227b72c.JPG
  3. Scalemates publish release dates, though they're not always 100% accurate
  4. Hannants have thousands of decal sheets for sale
  5. Well Peter - firstly Humbrol also have glue with a needle applicator just as good as Revell's. The Gift Set potlets are not useless, I use them, and they're fine. Stukas were not just green upper surfaces they were RLM70 / RLM71 splinter camouflage. Many modellers get a good result with a brush and won't touch an airbrush, and you "paint doesn't like plastic" statement hardly inspires confidence. It is perfectly possible to paint plastic whether its primed or not. But then, what one person finds easy with this hobby, another will find hard and vice versa. The best way to enter this hobby is with an open mind. Enjoy the journey and find what works for you.
  6. /media/tinymce_upload/de5deedd416749fc3b7e6e26830e3841.JPG
  7. How will you get them? Its not safe to publish personal details on the www and this site doesn't have a private messaging facility.
  8. Never heard of a Switzer. When I worked at Mettoy, the factory was run on two (out of three) gigantic compressors. They each were the size of a diesel engine in a locomotive. It was essential that the water traps were drained daily. The compressors we use are tiny by comparison. Yes they need draining, but a lot less frequently. I have a Sparmax. It has two drains. One under the water trap - just press and it releases air (and any water). The other is a screw-in plug under the tank. The water from here is usually rusty. Best drained into a container or outside. I do this periodicaly (every few months) and have not had water through to the airbrush.
  9. Why do I need to clean the plastic kits before building? Is this important? Sometimes mould release agent is left on the plastic, This repels paint so best get in the habit of washing. Most times you won't need to, but it will catch you out every now and then. I've heard about Priming but what is it? Again, is it important? Priming gives a key to subsequent paint. It also shows up any imperfections before you go to the trouble of putting down the finished paint, and you can work on areas needing attention before the finished paintwork. And finally, what paint type is best to use? Enamel or acryllic? You choice. I prefer acrylics but plenty still use enamels. SWMBO doesn't like the stink of enamels so I switched a few years ago. I'm not sure which type of paint is in the little pots that are included with some airfix kits so i've just gone with them and found them to be adequate. They are acrylics. HTH
  10. /media/tinymce_upload/4dbad8c3ffd8434f6721eae948fe8298.JPG
  11. Bronze Green was a 1950s colour. If you want green, the Tunisian campaign had something like Hu30 (not exactly, but close enough).
  12. That's why I built it 'in flight' how we did when we were kids.
  13. What are you talking about? A compressor?
  14. It may seem like a lot of paint to buy for your first build, but you'll soon gather a range of paints that will cover a multitude of subjects. Keep on Airfixing.
  15. /media/tinymce_upload/babd70293ffd51ab7015de48c3580fea.JPG
  16. Sometimes the change in horses works better with some figures than others. I've also cut horses into pieces and reassembled them mixed up - makes for different poses.
  17. A startling change in appearance
  18. /media/tinymce_upload/ce1d64f1c137e50240eb15ed11eedf40.JPG
  19. Returning to the hobby after 40 odd years. Can I get some advice on "grit" levels for sanding after filling? the help video for the filler refers to a "medium" grit level but the range is so huge I was hoping for something more specific. Many thanks.
  20. Airfix 54mm Grenadier of the 29th Worcestershire Regiment of Infantry on Duty at home, May 1813 (01551 conversion) /media/tinymce_upload/bb6fc4f5d5ddfc55e394eaf3e14ed5e5.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/d5c95faf24e830670a68bb4392891969.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/bb31a92839773db98f0118bac731cc5a.JPG
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