ARC Pro - Curved Lane Changer Mod

[Dr_C]

I really like your thinking. As you will have guessed I’m a newbie to forums but have a background in advanced MOSFET research... happy for you to start the new thread and I will certainly contribute... we could link back both to the earlier thread (which we both input into) and this one - alternatively I could start the new thread.. I’m happy either way :-) ... meanwhile... thanks for this recommendation... and, also, for your impressive work with the curve mod as per this thread!

[Dr_C]

Perhaps the thread title should be ‘Maximising digital and analog capabilities of early production versions of the Scalextric ARC PRO (December 2017)’... would this make sense?

[gorp]

start your own thread drc

blagard started this with his great idea on how to fix curved changers and you started posting your op c on it

Andy should have locked this down immediately

yes like when you started posting on slot forum arc pro mod how to

locked it down they did

so start your own thread

[Dr_C]

Sorry if I upset you Gorp... my intention here is to help like-minded enthusiasts of Scalextric to get the most out of their new investment in ARC PRO power bases. Meanwhile I happen to believe this product is the most exciting development in SSD since the arrival of the C7030. Amazing and very impressive work by Scalextric and their ARC PRO design team!!! Sorry if this is off topic, but it needs to be said...

[Dr_C]

Once I figure out how to successfully upload photographs I’ll show the variant of the curved lane changer mod where a single 10mm ‘dead spot’ is formed on the lane changing rail directly alongside the ouput (fixed) flipper/wedge. i.e. a variant of the modification shown in the earliest posts on this thread (acknowledging Blagard-01). With respect to ARC PRO and curved lane changers, I suspect there is very little more to be said...

[Blagard-01]

First of all there is a limit on the number of images you can upload in a single post so I combined mine in "Paint" to make one image. Then you write your post and upload you image using the icon as image below

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[Dr_C]

Now finished a couple of alternative versions of the curved lane changer approach... each version uses the 10mm dead spots mentioned earlier. Still testing...

1/ similar to blagard-01’s excellent ‘double dead spots‘ approach but modified using the rail ‘remove-cut-and-replace’ technique described earlier in this thread.

2/ introduction of a single 10mm dead spot alongside the output flipper (wedge) - but this can only be used for variants where this wedge is fixed in position (otherwise shorts would result).

Time taken to modify two curved lane changers was a total of approx 1 hr i.e 1/2 hr per changer using dremmel, hand file, 5 mins epoxy and attachment of one jumper wire.

Photos and diagrams to follow - slightly delayed because I want to compare and contrast the two alternative versions... :-)

[Blagard-01]

To summerise what may be the neatest way. Isolate the lane on the exit by snipping the ribbon as yellow line. Introduce a dead spot as the blacked bit of rail. Solder a wire to maintain rail continuity as the red link

 

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[edteach3r]

I have been following these discussions with great interest as I have 5 of these curved lane changers in my track.  Despite having used SSDC with my C7042 6-car powerbase successfully (digital only), yesterday I decided to pick up an ARC Pro Upgrade Kit for a second, smaller, track I am planning to build ... a scaled-down version of Goodwood :)

I am hoping to undertake the necessary mods on two of my curved lane changers so I can use ARC PRO in both digital and analogue modes.  None of my curved lane changers have been adapted for analogue use with C7042.  While I am quite comfortable with diy projects around the home, I am by no means adept with electricity. Hence, the posts above have required very careful, repeated, reading! 

Before I undertake the surgery required, I was hoping that someone might have a step-by-step process for dummies like me.  My Dremel awaits ... Thank you very much in advance.  Ed

[gorp]

dummies guide to arc pro used for both digital and analog :

use only straight dual changers

[Sealevel]

I just modified a track section to introduce a dead spot... got a very neat result by lifting the rail then cutting with a dremmel. I cut out a 10mm section then filed each remaining piece back by 1mm then re-assembled all three pieces... this creates... track then 1mm gap then 10mm track with dead spot then another 1mm gap then the remaining section of track. This looks very tidy, isolates the track and creates a nice flush surface for the brushes to ride over... this approach should work very well alongside the fixed output flipper/wedge as per above discussion...

Would you post a top side picture to explain what you mean?  I think that would help us understand.  Thanks for sharing!

[Sealevel]

Just read through this forum again and now understand the "1mm-10mm-1mm" concept.  Pictures will still help I am sure.  Options A, B, and C are still a bit confusing, but to say separate power to middle lane from lanes 1 and 2 (so they are not connected) seems easier to understand.  Really looking forward to how the ARC Pro can be separated from the track so that it can be swapped with the APB (C7042) by just plugging in the PB of choice.... a different topic for a different thread I am sure.  Thanks to all for sharing!

[Dr_C]

/media/tinymce_upload/a8198d5ce1f1b1c41a6c06a982c24a60.JPG

And another similar photo... please only use this mod if the exit flipper/wedge is 'fixed' rather than floating type.

Please note the double cut in front of the little mini!

[gorp]

do you actually mean only the dead spot  of a fixed exit of this part of blagard's mod ?

[Dr_C]

Hi Gorp, this is a very good question - thank you for seeking clarification on this point...

 

So, there are two main variants of the curved lane changer mod as introduced within this thread. The first requires two 10mm dead spots to be formed, side-by-side, at some point in the changing lane section of the track piece (please see blagard-01’s first set of photos on this thread). This ‘side-by-side‘ approach will work with all types of lane changers regardless of whether the exit flipper/wedge is ‘floating‘ type (pre circa 2005 production) or the later ‘fixed‘ type.

 

If the exit wedge is of the later ‘fixed‘ type (i.e. locked firmly in a centred and fixed position usind a small locking pin on the underside) then the simplified ‘single-sided’ variant can used as per the later more recent photos shared in this Thread. These later photos clearly show the correct positioning of 10mm single dead spot and, as you will see, blagard-01’s photos are almost identical to mine in this regard.

 

I hope this explanation is helpful :-)

 

C

 

This leaves one further question... if using the ‘side-by-side‘ variant - where is it best to location for the dead spots? 

[gorp]

yes same pic with blagard showing spot and you reinsert it apparently for appearance

his also shows wiring but you seem to imply nothing else needed

 

answer to question is why

[Dr_C]

Please note the 1mm-10mm-1mm technique for gap-deadspot-gap was discussed above on this thread on1/12/17.

 

Further photo attached showing red jumper wire soldered in place. Hope this adds clarification...

 

Enjoy :-)

 

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[Dr_C]

 

I believe the subject of modification of curved lane changers is fast approaching a final conclusion... there are just two details I wish to cover off...

 

1/ what if your curved lane changer has a 'floating' type of output wedge? What should the modification look like? I will exemplify this with photos in my next post below.

 

2/ from a practical point of view what are the 'does' and 'don'ts of introducing 10-12mm dead spots into track rails to eliminate 'signal contention' I.e. the types of issues (short circuits) that drive power bases into overload mode thereby triggering SAFE mode. And of course as applied in all of the above modifications.

To avoid duplicate entries I will post my response to item 2/ under the thread...

Problem with ARC Pro and curved lane changers

Hope all of this is useful...

 

C

[gorp]

while taking a pic of bottom

you should also arrow the gap

 

your gap question ignore years of use of straight dual changers

[gorp]

btw do you actually think you are running this discussion of blagard's mod thats why you believe its over

 

it was over while back after he posted it and you started all your other solutions

then you pop in with all your redesigns and pics as if you have done anything at all

guess what blagard did good and all you can do is try to copy it

 

 

 

[edteach3r]

@Dr_C

As with @Blagard-1, your additions are very useful, thank you. I too would like clarification on "floating flipper" mod as I have at least one of those.

P.S. I am new to this forum, so forgive my ignorance.  I belong to many other forums/fora and have never seen any of this "his post"/"your post" pettiness.  Aren't we all in this for the same reason?  Quite bizarre ...

[Dr_C]

Hi Edteach3r, many thanks for your comments and interest in the curved lane changer modification for the 'floating' exit flipper/wedge variant.

This variant requires a side-by-side pair of double cuts. These cuts can be made at any point on the lane changimg lane. I’m sure opinions will differ but I choose to apply the modification immediately following the entry/input flipper/wedge. Also, I make the gap between the rails 12mm in the form of 1mm-10mm-1mm for gap then isolated section of rail then gap. If you run with longer pick-up brushes then 15mm gap would make sense. Photos shown next to help provide clarification (hopefully)...

C

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[Dr_C]

Hi edteach3r,

 

The images are now with admin and I hope will be posted later today.

 

Meanwhile, might still be useful to keep the option C in mind - still my preference although I'm fully aware that opinions differ on this subject :-)

 

C

[Milkman rob]

I found the easiest way around the track shorting out was to undo the long base plate underneath and remove the copper tape from the outer 2 rails, there is no need for this and now it works fine

[Dr_C]

I found the easiest way around the track shorting out was to undo the long base plate underneath and remove the copper tape from the outer 2 rails, there is no need for this and now it works fine

Hi Milkman_rob,

If I understand your mod correctly you are doing the standard digital to analog conversion to curved lane changers as required to make them compatible with the C7042 APB when operating in analog mode. However a more complex modification is required to make curved lane changers compatible with 2017 production of ARC PRO. I believe this thread was intended primarily to address the latter. Hope this helps add clarification?