Jump to content

Best Loco Decoder


Recommended Posts

Hi Nigel,

The most critical thing, (which will affect your possible decoder options) is to perform a ‘stall test’ on your locos. See the following link:

https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC-Page-1.html#stallcurrent

You may also want to look at the following link which discusses hard-wiring decoders to various loco/motor types:

https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC-Page-1.html#decoderinstalation

Note to mods - since this query relates to DCC decoders, (rather than railmaster or elink) it might get more helpful responses by being in the DCC sub-forum. Nigel can always start a new thread here if he has subsequent queries specifically regarding railmaster/elink.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Best" is a subjective noun. What is best in one scenario may not be best in another. Given that you seem to be more interested in hard wiring older locomotives, then you should be looking at decoders that have wired harnesses and have an absolute minimum 1 Amp motor current capability or higher if you can find one. Hence the recommendation (crucial to do IMO) to perform a 'stall test' to determine the current your decoders need to support.

I strongly advise that if space permits that you install a decoder socket to plug your decoders into rather than permanently hard wiring them in. This can potentially limit your choice of decoders, as DIY installation socket availability for some of the more exotic decoders could be the limiting factor. 8 Pin sockets for 8 Pin decoders is a popular choice for DIY installation as they are readily available and easy to wire up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume these are old locos, when I converted all my old locos I tried many different decoders. Unfortunately I found many didn't deliver the current stated in the specification, a couple of makes just smoked when the loco stalled on a point. I used Zimo decoders as I found these to be the most reliable and higher output current. In all cases I hard wired a socket into the loco either an 8 pin or if there wasn't enough room as in the case of a split chassis Bachmann A4 a 6 pin. Fortunately with Zimo the 8 pin and 6 pin are electronically the same. I have found with some other makes the 6 pin varieties seem to be designed for N gauge motors so didn't work too well. The Train O Matic ones seem pretty good as well. I would definitively recommend fitting a socket of some kind so you can easily change decoders if you have issues or if you want to test the loco on DC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
  • Create New...