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Elite Repair


Dodge1965

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So my 22/17 Hornby Elite had died.. I called Hornby Technical and they will not now repair the older Elite's like mine, only the newer ones.

Does anyone know a place that would repair one? I took it apart and i can see a chip that is burnt/black on left side of pic. Not sure other anything has gone.

Thanks

Elite.thumb.jpg.ff16174df3cc7f7f6acaa0e15ac0602d.jpg

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7 minutes ago, 96RAF said:

Clean off the soot and tell me the Q number and I will tell you the component ID and likely you can swap it out.

The top of the chip has melted. All i can see is either Q7 or O7 on the printed circuit board, by the side of the chip

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Q7 is the motor drive H-bridge part number IRF7303. An obsolete part so you may have to source a superseding item.

Edit - correction - this is a dual mosfet in the Railcom circuit - see later post.

 

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Just now, 96RAF said:

Q7 is the motor drive H-bridge part number IRF7303. An obsolete part so you may have to source a superseeding item.

Sorry Rob, No idea how to do that? Thanks for the help.

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Just now, Dodge1965 said:

Sorry Rob, No idea how to do that? Thanks for the help.

You look up the part number on electronics suppliers and see what they suggest - comparing datasheet specs.

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A tip for changing these devices. Snip the legs carefully, then unsolder each bit that is left as this minimises risk of pulling up pcb traces. Then a minute dab of superglue or epoxy to hold the new device in place before you solder it.

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1 minute ago, 96RAF said:

A tip for changing these devices. Snip the legs carefully, then unsolder each bit that is left as this minimises risk of pulling up pcb traces. Then a minute dab of superglue or epoxy to hold the new device in place before you solder it.

Great bit of info... Thanks again

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"So will give that a try, hope its just the one part thats gone..."

That's why I asked what happened.  Was there a short circuit before it failed or perhaps it had been powered up for a long time.  Other parts may also have failed that caused that particular part to burn up.

Perhaps RAF knows if there are any power transistors between the track connectors and the H bridge chip.

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17 hours ago, Rog RJ said:

"So will give that a try, hope its just the one part thats gone..."

That's why I asked what happened.  Was there a short circuit before it failed or perhaps it had been powered up for a long time.  Other parts may also have failed that caused that particular part to burn up.

Perhaps RAF knows if there are any power transistors between the track connectors and the H bridge chip.

Nothing downstream, and only a pair of common mode chokes (off to the left side of the diagram below) upstream of the Q7 dual mosfet. As seen only a resistor and a pair of diodes in circuit. Having looked at it again it looks more like a Railcom driver than a motor H-bridge (earlier post amended).

 

IMG_1840.jpeg

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Having had a look inside mine, build code 11/07, it looks like the track output is fed by some kind of transistors/mosfets under the black heatsink (mine has different, plain aluminium heatsinks) then to the chokes and finally the track connectors.

It may be that one or more of the output transistors has blown, causing Dodge's chip to burn out.

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8 minutes ago, Rog RJ said:

Having had a look inside mine, build code 11/07, it looks like the track output is fed by some kind of transistors/mosfets under the black heatsink (mine has different, plain aluminium heatsinks) then to the chokes and finally the track connectors.

It may be that one or more of the output transistors has blown, causing Dodge's chip to burn out.

How would i test that?

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Not sure,  I would try with my multimeter after removing the parts and checking the data sheets for pinouts and specs.  If anything looked a bit odd I'd get new parts, test and compare and replace if necessary.  If you haven't done this sort of work before it can be quite daunting.  Sometimes you need to replace a who;e bunch of components at the same time.

I worked in an electronic repair workshop for a while and had training prior to that in electronics.  we had access to all kinds of test equipment that ordinary folk don't have.  We also had full circuit diagrams to work from.

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11 minutes ago, Rog RJ said:

Not sure,  I would try with my multimeter after removing the parts and checking the data sheets for pinouts and specs.  If anything looked a bit odd I'd get new parts, test and compare and replace if necessary.  If you haven't done this sort of work before it can be quite daunting.  Sometimes you need to replace a who;e bunch of components at the same time.

I worked in an electronic repair workshop for a while and had training prior to that in electronics.  we had access to all kinds of test equipment that ordinary folk don't have.  We also had full circuit diagrams to work from.

Will try changing the chip and then see. If still bad, will try and find a place to send it to..  Thanks for info..

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It is worth taking those heat sinks off, cleaning up the hear sink gunge and reapplying, making sure the heat sinks are secure else this can happen...

These are the Q2 and Q4 motor drive components adjacent to Q7. The other pair Q1 and Q3 are under the other heat sink near the chokes.

 

 

IMG_1842.jpeg

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17 hours ago, 96RAF said:

It is worth taking those heat sinks off, cleaning up the hear sink gunge and reapplying, making sure the heat sinks are secure else this can happen...

These are the Q2 and Q4 motor drive components adjacent to Q7. The other pair Q1 and Q3 are under the other heat sink near the chokes.

 

 

IMG_1842.jpeg

Thanks Rob.. I've posted it to you house ...🤣🤣

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