My airbrush cleaning routine for acrylic paints.

[Ratch]

Having completed spraying, remove the cup cap. Any paint left in the airbrush cup is returned to the paint bottle/jar, waste not, want not. The cup is then wiped out with a cloth or piece of paper kitchen towel. I then put some water in the cup and spray to flush through. By placing a finger over the nozzle cap, we can blow back through the paint channel, creating bubbles in the cup. His helps to flush out any residue of paint.

The nozzle cap and nozzle are removed and placed in a dish (or another receptacle). Then the handle can be removed, the needle locking nut can be loosened and the tiny nose nut removed with the supplied spanner. I place the nose nut into the cup cap and place it in the dish. Some clean water can then be poured over these parts. The needle can now be withdrawn from the front of the airbrush. Withdrawing this way ensures that any paint on the needle does not contaminate the rear part of the assembly. The needle can be wiped clean with the cloth/kitchen roll. Holding the body of the airbrush over the dish, some clean water is put into the cup and allowed to run through, flushing the plant flow channel. I then take the wire cleaner and insert a suitable thickness into the front, agitating it through the needle channel just to ensure that any unseen paint that may have accumulated there is removed. I then take the nozzle from the dish, wiping of any build up of paint with cloth/paper. The wire cleaner is also used on the aperture. A bottle brush is then used on the nozzle cap. This is usually sufficient to clean off the paint, but sometimes, particularly after spraying Polyurethane Surface Primer, there can be a rubbery build up. I remove this by scraping with something pointy. The nose nut also received the attention of the pointed tool, run through from the rear.

Now we can start reassembling the airbrush. Put the nozzle nut back in and tighten with the spanner provided. This should be just pinch tight. Over tightening can result in threads being stripped (don’t ask how I know), so be careful. The needle can now be re-inserted from the rear, and the needle locking nut tightened to hold the needle. Screw on the nozzle (finger tight) and then the nozzle cap. I then point the airbrush into the cleaning pot and add a little airbrush cleaner to the cup, which is then flushed through. With the cup empty, loosen the needle locking nut and withdraw the needle from the rear. Wipe it with the cloth/paper again and then replace it, locking the nut to hold it in position. Finally, the handle can be screwed back on, and the airbrush is ready to use again.

This may sound very long-winded but can be done (with practice) in minutes. I use my Iwata HP plus airbrush quite frequently and generally speaking it performs without issue. For a deep clean I will use a couple of aerosol cans; one is Premi Air Foaming Airbrush Cleaner, and the other is Spraycraft Airbrush Cleaner, which works on the most stubborn of dried on paint. The thing is not to be intimidated, but get yourself a good routine.

[Tour de Airfix]

Good advice Ratch. I follow a similar routine, though probably waste far more paint than I should as I find getting it back into those dropper bottles can be challenging!

One other useful tip I’ve learned recently with my H&S brushes is that the little half moon hole seen to the side of the nozzle can get blocked restricting airflow. The handy needle tool that many of us may have is shaped perfectly to clear any obstruction in this area. I also give this a check from time to time, probably in the deep clean phase of your schedule. 
 

[Ratch]

That's the pointy tool I was referring to.

[paul71]

this is a great topic we bought all this for my son at Christmas( might be able to get my own setup one day) and about to start the adventure of learning to spray.

Thanks for the great advice ratch and TDA.

 

paul

[Peter Terry1707820234]

Thanks Ratch, all good advice good cleaning practice's make air brushing easy and more enjoyable

Peter