Where to buy clear perspex.

[roythegrass]

I have backscenes on the two short sides and back long operating side of my layout (10'x4') but where can I buy the clear plastic/perspex often seen on the front viewing side ?
Roy

[37lover]

Roy,

I bought mine from Ebay. Cut to the sizes I wanted.

[Gordonvale]

I sourced mine by doing a "Yellow Pages" search on perspex. It comes in sheets. Ask the supplier to cut it to your required size. If you're lucky, he'll have some off cuts so you don't have to buy the whole sheet.

 

If you're going to drill holes in it, rest it on timber and start off with a nicely pointed (to dig in) timber drill bit max size about 3mm or 1/8th. Then build up the hole to the required size in steps of 2 or 3 mm using a metal drill bit and running the drill in reverse. This is my method of avoiding splits and cracks. A practice run is recommended.

[Howbi]

@ Roy..........these guys sell perspex........https://www.kitronik.co.uk/materials/perspex.html          HB

[Chrissaf]

Buy mine from ebay like 37L

[roythegrass]

Thanks folks.

Roy

[RB51]

I got mine

 

Here

 

I drilled my own holes (carefully) for the screws, as they seemed expensive for this part.

 

R-

[LCDR]

 B&Q sell it as a glazing for sheds, but you will probably get it cheaper on-line.

[Ullswater]

I've also been looking at adding perspec at the edges of my layout ... does anybody have any views on what thickness?  My assumption is it should be as thin as possible whilst still allowing enough strength to be protective and not easily damaged or flexed.

[VESPA]

Be very careful where you buy it from. I had a terrible time in Feb with a similar product from a company and ended up getting a refund on my credit card. Search locally first. Sign makers are a starting point.

[RB51]

@ Ullswater

 

Mine is 5mm. I wouldn't go any thinner than that, and if you drill your own screw holes start with a smaller pilot hole at a slow speed and gradually increase the diameter until you get to the target size for your screws. I also used those cup washers to keep the head of the screw away from the edge of the hole. R-

 

R-

[Carltonf]

Just one thing to add to GordonVale / RogerB's fine advice.  I always place a bit of masking tape on first, and drill through that.  Just helps get a grip to start from, and helps prevent it slipping.

If cutting to shape with a jigsaw, make sure you get a suitable blade for Acrylic / Perspex.

[Gitter]

also don't use a sharp drill, they tend to snatch and cause splitting/ cracking. 5 or 6 mm is a semi flexible thickness and should prove to be adequate, and a new fine tooth metal cutting blade in jigsaw . It may leave a small melt burr , but is easy to remove with a file. 

[Gordonvale]

also don't use a sharp drill, they tend to snatch and cause splitting/ cracking

 

That's exactly why I use a metal drill and run the drill backwards, it's more of a grinding job than a cutting job. 

 

I use 3mm perspex for everything.

 

Firstly I buy a full sheet 2400x1200 as supplied locally and get them to cut it into 3 800x1200 sheets so it's easy to handle and put in the car. Before pinning the base board to the frame, I use the sheets to check my required point positioning allows for the point motor holes without fouling the cross members. Next I go back to the shop and get the pieces cut to required size, usually just larger than A3/A4.

[roythegrass]

I purchased from Trent Plastics who I found on ebay but went direct to their website where the identical size was appreciably cheaper. Cut precisely to size and delivered in three days.My garage door is almost always open and whilst I welcome the local kids coming in to view the layout they will insist on prodding and poking whatever they can reach so hopefully this clear perspex should discourage them.

 

Roy

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