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New Track inside the Dining room table


uksqueezea

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Hi all,

After 30 plus years of Scalextric ( you'll find my topic over in the Scalextric area) youngest daughter has convinced me she likes trains instead. So with the wife asking for a larger 14 seat dining room table, and baby number 11 wanting to play trains, I decided the only way was to build the track inside the new table, under a large hinged glass top on gas struts. So for starters, I've been told every train track needs a bridge, a tunnel and "horsies". The track will have 3 height levels with the station being the lowest, and then winding its way through the country and back into smallish country village. So to begin, I got stuck in and built the table. I really had to compress things up in regards the track and I dont have any real intention of buying a lot of trains, I just need something to pull the cars around while we all look through the table top. I'll post photos as I go. I've started with a small set, the Western Freight Hauler and the track will be based on an English railway. Soooo much green scenery to purchase.  Also popped in Slot car photo so you see the level of detail we've achieved there. I promise it will be the last time.( hope you all enjoy the build.)/media/tinymce_upload/249a2cfe9375455430c06f627f7f0d1d.png/media/tinymce_upload/27d7e389b04f22f1e4c598148ff17163.png

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I've cut some 3mm MDF board into 2 inch squares and stackied them up to get the height sorted. I think the set came with R3 Corners and to get the lower level crammed in, I've used some R1's. I'm sure someone here will be more knowledgable about which track pieces come in the set. Heights worked out here in this photo,  so time to start putting in the support for the track. Also came across some Metcalfe Buildings, the Farmhouse and workers cottage. As a Carpenter/ House builder I was very impressed with how these came together. One thing I noticed straight away with the scenery that is coming, the Trains will use alot more due to the smaller scale unlike Scalextric, whic sometimes only requires 1 tree some grass and a fence. and the "horsies" have already been purchased along with the classic 1/76th Bedford Farm Horse truck. also I'll need to keep all the wires in the layout so as not to hang under the table and look untidy, so the base board will have a 5mm void above to run everything through and the scenery will sit on 5mm mdf bases. So all this can be detailed and placed in later.. 

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Nice work getting the layout to fit inside the table and good idea to have 3 levels. As there obviously are gradients you may have to run 2 locos together to climb these when you have a longer rake of wagons or coaches.   I would suggest you buy 0-6-0 loco(s) first and see how they go.   What are your curve radiuses ? (they look like 3rd radius maximum so larger locos may be able to run without derailing - perhaps you could try a less expensive one first). Or borrow one from a friend.

The layout looks very promising so I wish you good luck with decorating it with extra features to keep your daughter happy (and yourself, of course !  😆 ).

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Looking good.

Radius 1 curves should be avoided for any loco bigger than an 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 although many will say they can get longer locos around them without problems. Radius 2 is generally the accepted minimum requirement - see the loco box end panel for minimum radius requirement.

 

Edit- you will have to make some arrangement to plug your controller into the table, maybe by way of a recessed panel with a cover panel to keep little fingers out when its being used as a table.

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Installed the ramps to get down to the base level. I used cedar, its nice and soft to work with. Time to add in the track wires for the power. I can feel my back aching already just thinking about this task.

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Started on the scenery. Just the framework and foundation for the areas of the track we want to highlight. And I wired the track up for reliable track power. I haven't done any solder work in a long time, so I was rubbish til I got my technique sorted. Foam also for the hills ready for the plaster rockwork. A timber bridge etc....

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Thanks for the update photos. I see that you have used strips of wood for your guard-rails on the curves. A wise precaution. I have used acetate strips round the elevated curves, secured to the underside of the rails with stiff black card. Being transparent the strips are hardly noticeable. Possibly a more elegant solution would be the plastic fencing offered by a number of firms - but more expensive of course and harder to fix in position. Similar things can be made from plastic dish drainers (tho SWAMBO might object ! 🤐). In my case I got away with it- er, I think./media/tinymce_upload/ae87db70949fd692ad95fdcdf7edecfb.JPG

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Yes the strips of wood will eventually have bricks glued to them but for know "paper" will do until i get this further advanced. This build is to a pretty tight time frame. Starting on the plaster now to shape the small hills on the "Farmhouse" end of the layout. Looking to also add in a timber bridge across the tracks so the horses have access to the other side of the hills. Toying with the idea of building another platform up here for loading cattle onto the train. But thats for another day. Also aiming for a very tight fit with the scenery as close as I can get to the train tracks. Fingers crossed. 

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What are you using for soldering........a blowtorch?

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But seriously though, it looks to me as if you are using a soldering iron that is too large and too higher wattage for the job, based upon the molten sleepers and shrunk back insulation. The blobby solder would infer that you are not using flux or pre-tinning either. Possibly even the dreaded 'lead free' solder type which any experienced solderer will tell you to avoid like the plaque.

.

See my 'How to Solder' tutorial.

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In your post at 1312 on Monday, in the overall view, you have a curved tunnel at the top left. Have you thought how you are going to rescue any derailments in there, as the entrance is too small to get a hand inside!

Also, don't forget the overhang of rolling-stock on corners, the outside edge sticks out wider than the track, and the inside centre also overhangs, but on the inside, a lot further than you'd anticipate - and depending on the radius of the curve.

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ha! my soldering. I haven't soldered in a while so I started with the track that will eventually be hidden. I got better at it in the end. Yes its all about technique and i realised my eyes are not the same as they were five years ago. Never mind, on we go.  I use normal plaster board cornice cement, and glass joint tape to fill up the hills.Its way cheaper and this house builder has bags of it. The brown base will all be hidden under grass so it should be fine for the scenery. /media/tinymce_upload/723a0b8f302c65eeed328c4380935474.png

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"Have you thought how you are going to rescue any derailments in there, as the entrance is too small to get a hand inside!"

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Good question, and if I had more train experience I may have identified this as a potential problem earlier.! However, being from Australia we were a little distracted this afternoon with a visitor to the back of the shed. if I have to put my hand in a tiny hole and pull out a train I can deal with that. But this guy turned up and the space he's occupying here in the photo is about 4 inches wide so yep he's a big one. So if I have to pull him out of this hole, I see that as a much bigger problem and I'll get the kids to do it. There's always one kid in every Aussie household who is just not scared of snakes. 

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I must admit I wondered what this post entailed as I rarely frquent this website anymore but I think you are doing very well with the idea. I like the fact that you are making much of the walls etc yourself and not relying totally on mass produced kits. I do think the snake is overscale but you could have a European Union Gravy Train and that would be full of snakes. Being a gravy train it would be suitable for a dining table. 😉 I wish you well with this project as it seems to be going very well indeed.

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More progress on the track today, and the start of the wooden bridge for the horses to cross over the track.

..and one more snake photo. But this guy is a tiny one who turned up one day to sit in a Marshall's tower and watch the Scalextric cars go by. 

Scenery for the track will mostly be heavy bnushes grasses and undergrowth encroaching on thelayout and as explained I'm really after a certain look. I want the train to look like its sneaking its way through the landscape.

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The farm end of the track is coming along fine, you'll see laying in here is the 4mm MDF base board of the main farmhouse yard, I can remove this board and detail it up in the house. Its winter here in Australia and some nights its gets down to 15 deg.. yep freezing Brrrrr! Even the dog won't come down here at night its so cold. So we can continue on with the placement of the farm houses sheds, fences etc. Also purchased a plunge drill set up for my Dremel, so now I can accurately drill holes in matches so I can make up fence's,  and also to insert guitar string wire inside all the little people's legs. (I'll explain that a little later.) But for now another progress photo.

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 "Just a question, but does the family ever anticipate actually using it as a dining table? "

Yes, should be ok. We'll be using this as the main table in the house once its finished. We'll really be needing it by the time its finished. The Mrs will soon throw a tablecloth over it so it doesn't form the topic of every conversation when visitors arrive.  I'll also need to get the glass top sealed on the edges so as not to have any spilt milk running into the layout. The local glass dealer is itching to get up here for a measure up.

A couple of new aquisitions today.  Inside the little village will be a race car workshop for race cars. These Mercedes arrived in a "book like" display box and will fit in nicely once removed and placed in the layout.   Along with so far a Porsche 956 and a Jaguar E type,these will look good parked out in the street waiting to be serviced. The two cars left in the box for now, will soon be joining Sir Stirling Moss/ Denis jenkinson and Mr. Fangio 300 SLR Merc's which have already been moved to the shed to give me an idea of scale size for the garage..

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and even though its a 40's layout, some street basket ballers have been fitted to a half-court basket ball court, which will be in the alley beside the race car work shop.

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"So will there be any access or will it all be sealed in?"

 

No it won't be completey sealed in although its all in the table itself. The glass forming the table top will be rebated into a timber frame and the glass will be sealed into here. Then all this will be hinged and gas struts will be fitted under the ends to aid with the lifting - like the lid on a grand piano. I'm told about 40kg of weight in the glass at $350AU. (8ft x 4ft) The base of the struts will be hidden in the timber frame of the table itself. The control of the train will probably have to be mobile, but unlike all the great tracks we see in this forum, this is a simple loop track so there's not alot of need for control. All the individual switches for the street and house lights and also the points (track switches) have been tucked away under 4 brass clam shell handles fitted around the outside of the table. 

So the challenge has been to build and fit everything under the closed glass top. For instance the station and platform reaches from table base to the underside of the glass... the chimneys are solid and provide extra support for the glass... and still not have the train hit the glass as it moves around the track. There is about 5mm of clearance for the train engines, ( In theory- so fingers crossed)  As for potential issues and access to the running loco, the train track itself seems to be fine and the train never seems to derail..

I'm mean,.. its a Hornby Train.. What could possibly go wrong......

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