Lb101

The outer loop goes pretty close to the edge of your base board along three edges, assuming it is completely to scale with the layout. if you have an expensive loco derail (particulary prone on corners) there is a risk it might fall off. Unless you plan on having it up against a wall or are incorporating a raised edge/buttress or incorporating fencing which is fixed enough to ’catch’ derailing trains. if so make sure your longer locos and carriages aren’t going to clip anything. Personally I’d probably bring it back into the board a bit if possible (reduced diameter), but that is because I like adding low relief (narrow in depth) buildings to edges to add realism. If that doesn’t bother you then keep it as more track as you have done, but with consideraction for the above points about room for locos/rolling stock to get around the corners without hitting walls/raised edges.

Looking great, brilliant idea.

I like the box too. And that’s some sized tender!

I think actually it’s 450 mA for each controlled output now (the manual is in the loft somewher). No slave connectors post 2015 probably due to above sharing reasons.. Though Hattons website say it’s 500 mA (And mention the new one doesn’t have connections to the now discontinued slaves, which were R8013 for left and R8013a for right)

My hm2000 is newer. They’ve done away with the slave sockets so only the two control knobs it has can be used (they changed the power to 470 mA I believe for controlled, I may be wrong on that). That said I changed where I park all my locos recently so had to reverse them all out. I had no fewer than 5 locos running on one track at one point with no trips (all newer locos). I’ve also had at least two old locos running. Suffice to say, as I always tend to run one at a time, or two if parking one whilst moving one out, this unit does the job for me! i think it’s tripped once in the 4 years I’ve had it, I think when a loco derailed and cause a short circuit across the rails.

Many thanks Chrissaf, now I know 😆. The cost of this controller, given its better quality and internal components compared to the Hornby standard single ‘set’ controllers (including the new model) made buying the HM2000 a no brainer for me then as I have two isolated DC tracks and so would need to have bought two of those ones. Sorry to steal the thread at the end, but it was related and gave some relevant clarity to part of the initial question I hope.

Hi Chrissaf. Is this the case for all controllers? I was under the impression that the latest Hornby HM2000 for example had completely isolated controlled/uncontrolled circuitry from the power input (all sorted within the ‘control box’ itself somehow) so current draw from one doesnt effect the other and therefore no voltage drop to locos. I thought it was only the one uncontrolled AC and one uncontrolled DC which share current on this unit (that’s how the sheet it comes with reads to me anyway) That said, I’ve noticed the ‘on’ indicator light fades when I switch it all on. if this isn’t the case I’ll be switching all my lights and point motors to separate transformers! On the original question, @lawstrains, can you see the make and model of your controller, might help but looks like your quest has been answered? thanks

Hi. My son has Adhd and is currently being assessed for autism. We started small with a DC set, I can see how the DCC FS will be appealing to him and if he is like my son nothing else will do!, At the minute he is eagerly awaiting the Hornby class 800 Azuma coming out later this year Though don’t know whether that will be a purchase, no room left and rather expensive though I’d like one too! But he changes his mind all the time (class 55s came before that, picked up an old one cheaply, DC and it runs great). An advantage of DC is price and options for someone who is forevever into different locos. We stuck to DC. It became my hobby through him. I rigged up a cheap blue tooth speaker to my iPhone and that’s the best I could do for sound but to be honest his interest in sound isn’t there (loco noises and station announcements didn’t float his boat, he prefers to make the noises himself). He too enjoys watching the wheels, he also enjoys pulling into stations and doing the announcements himself he has picked up from real stations. He always enjoys switching points and parking trains. I’d start with a single oval and have a couple of stations and a couple of sidings for parking locos. Then it can grow from there, one oval keeps it simple and gives more room for scenary. Some days he wants to do dioramas and scenary (trees, scatter paths etc) other days he has in mind which loco he wants to run around. We now have a whole loft mini world with lights and point switches, scenes, etc still DC. He enjoys sitting/lying on the floor looking closely at trains as they go by (going back to the first starter set I put together on the floor with one turnout) so we have an n scale layout too which sits on an old flat door i picked up for a tenner. In summary id start simple and work up, maybe one oval with turnouts as per above. I have found he wanted a couple of things which he lost interest in but by and large he loves all aspects of it. I learnt with him and spend more time in the loft than him, he comes up when he wants to. He might want to move to digital one day, I can see the appeal but don’t know much about it and at the moment he is happy with switches and a simple controller. That and sleeping in the ‘den‘ under the layout with me on a weekend. i prefer dc as he plays with enough digital stuff and also I can pick up relatively older cheap locos he decides he wants for dc running e.g we went on the javelin, we now have a Railroad Javelin. He is 8 now and understands if he wants an Azuma we may have to sell some other locos. great hobby to share, teaches everything from circuits to economics! We were lucky enough to go on Union of South Africa last December, A4s are his favourite steam loco, he loved it!

A full size loco going around a radius 2 or 3 curve (scaled up curves and equivalent curvature) at a not excessively high speed we are scaling up to I imagine would derail due to the momentum and forces involved (little locos can cope easily with scaling speed on curves due to their size and build, but as you say it looks unreal as the physics is different, correction the forces are different to full size and what a full size train could handle, the physics is the same). imagine the people inside if it didn’t derail, plenty of coffee spilled to say the least. Someone else can figure out all the physics of that one if geometry and forces float their boat, too complicated for me.

Agreed Fazy, run locos steady as she goes! There is an off topic thread going on now in that section about time and speed (you’ve written in it but for the benefit of those interested and wish to see their locos arrive before they have set off etc. and try to get their head around that). It was probably started because of this simple question. Edit: it did, I’ve just gone back in time and read Ericm0hff’s original post on it (it’s called ‘speed consideration’)

Ps. Can’t edit the above due to iPhone problems. The original post was simply how do I measure scaled speed. Again take a distance and measure how long it takes to do that distance. Get the units right, and the distance you choose is divided by time taken to do that distance to give actual speed. Multiply by 76 for scaled up speed. Sorry just wanted to answer the post question as it was written in a concise way.

Just for fun. Perhaps an easier way, point me out if I’m wrong. Measure the length of your track, at the middle point between the rails will do (you only need to do this once). then use use: time = distance divided by speed e.g for a scaled required 100mph on a 10m run then it is (10x(1/1609.3))/100). Multiply by 60 to get minutes and then again for seconds = 0.22356 seconds (full size loco to do 10metres at 100mph). And this by 76 to get scale = About 17 seconds. 1609.3 converts metres into miles but you can swap the units of 100mph to km/h if you work metric. Just keep the above equation and change only the 10m length. If you want to know for part of your track (long straight rather than corners or vice versus) calculate for that distance. Simply run your loco so it takes that long to get around that distance. i keep meaning to do this the other way around for my Eurostar (Hornby Railroad), I want to measure full scaled up speed as I’m sure my boy has it running over the sound barrier down a slight incline we have and around a gentle curve. I may need to play a sonic boom on my iPhone to make it sound realistic 😀

Thankfully it runs both ways

EnGee, it’s good you have given this concise advice, under complicating it. Phill300, i’d follow the last post first to identify the problem, then the rest of the posts might help solve it or give some alternatives/food for thought.

This looks great. are you using uncouplers. running anti-clockwise on the inner track will be easy (on the left hand side, the Uk it’s usually the left). This is assuming locos will be stored on the turntable outs and rolling stock on the long sidings. You can run locos from your turntable and reverse pick up/drop off rolling stock using track uncouplers in the siding (reversing stock into the sidings to drop off/pick up). for the outside line, if that is running clockwise I.e. on the left again (as is the norm) then you will need uncouplers on the main track (to uncouple stock from locos) then the one in the siding (for uncoupling a shunter which can push stock in). Otherwise going clockwise, you’ll hem in locos in the sidings. if you weren’t planning on using decouplers or direction isn’t important to you please ignore me.

Ps. To late to edit last post, and regarding the beginning of my last post, I questioned if you tested the rails directly from a transformer as you seemed to imply you may have. I meant to say Be careful if you tested the rails directly with a transformer from the mains with no controller in between, I wouldn’t do that, too dangerous even if the appropriate transformer is being used. Some might say it’s fine, I don’t know, but I wouldn’t try that, partly as I don’t know enough about electrics to know I might be using the wrong transformer and what could happen even if I was and partly as controllers usually have safety mechanisms themselves, I’d keep the set up as it’s meant to be.

LC & DR and others have answered your question thoroughly ,i’d Add is your controller ok assuming you try everything else or did you connect the transformer directly to the rails to test (I’d try track rubber and look at electrical connections first and choosing the best looking track you have perhaps with new fishplates) and somehow ensuring your controller is ok. If you Clean with IPA keep your daughter well clear when using that stuff!. Agree, don’t use sandpaper a track rubber will work well to see if dirt is the problem. I introduced my son to railways at 5, tried using old second hand track and hit problems with dirt and derailments. I bought a starter set (Hornby one with an oval and a turnout which he loved. Can work out cheaper if you need a controller, track and want a starter loco and a few wagons though the controller may not be suitable for your older loco’s and cut out too often (and aren’t planning going digital anytime soon, it grew from there. A compromise which will keep you running smoothly, you could use shiny new track for running your locos and put some of the original track down as unused ‘dummy’ track, disappearing into a tunnel to nowhere, storing locos you aren’t using or going off behind a shed or something if you wish to use some of it for sentimental reasons (you indicate you won’t use it all anyway due to the amount of it). Another option, a little different could be to use some of it to put into a thick frame, with a (i’d Use white) cardboard border (contemporary frame and old track) and hang it up next to your soon to be layout (simply 3 or 4 of the same short curved pieces side by side). I think I’ve seen something like this before, a fun project with your daughter and a bit of art/tribute. if your locos are very old (I think pre 1975 for Hornby, I’ll be corrected if wrong) they might have the older deep wheel flanges and not like new track too much which Has less height on the rails (jumping over points is the usual problem where the flanges go down so far as to hit the plastic on them). the forum could help identify the year of manufacture if you have pictures or are in any doubt (and the boxes and code numbers). I’m assuming it’s all Hornby loco/wagons Either way, hope you get going soon, Enjoy!

I fear might be getting mixed up with N gauge track, which I think have radius differences between manufacturers, sorry.

I have a Hornby railroad flying Scotsman. It either didn’t come with or I took off and forgot to put back, a spring coiled around the part that joins the whatever the 4 wheeled axle assembly is called to the loco underneath. I used the spring from a Railroad Mallard (which definitely came with said spring from new). I had dropped Mallard down the loft hatch and broke her (it’s now on static display on my turntable, RIP). Once on, FS went from derailing via those front wheels on almost every point and turn to running like a dream, still is running just fine. Check to see if yours has a spring when you take a look.

Me again. Just had time to read Chrissaf‘s last post. It basically clarifies what you need to do, realise my last post threw out a few general things to look out for, he’d basically covered/said what needs looking into in detail, properly in a thorough way. BTW, I also said some locos struggle with radius 2 and below, I should have said simply make sure your locos can handle the curves including turnout curves and lengths (some locos say on the box ’a minimum of radius 2’ or words to that effect (I mistakenly said can’t handle 2 and below), which I see your inner one was going to be. I’m guessing from memory they are referring to their own brand track when they say this, not sure what this means for loco manufacturers who say this but don’t make track (assuming they do sometimes say this, can’t remember, as I think (I’ll be corrected if I’m wrong) that there are differences in the radius options between manufacturers. This might actually work for you (different manufacturers track for each oval to make them a good distance apart) ....perhaps but perhaps not.

It might be worth asking, do you know which locos you are planning on running (or type of loco/rolling stock?). by that I mean the longer ones, and longer carriages like larger radius track (some won’t get around radius 2 or less for example easily, sorry different manufacturers have different radius measurements too so look into that, might be tight for your inner oval). added to that you are putting your points (two sets to get a crossover) on the curves, I fear you might struggle with derailments if things get a bit tight unless you can add a bit of space between them. I only use the longer, straighter (Hornby) turnouts and not the shorter ones which have a tighter bend to negotiate on the turnout (I only have straight turnouts non on bends, not sure if you get both types on bends). I don’t have time to look at the code numbers, but I’d do a check on what you plan can handle what you want to run on it. Did I read you will be running DC? If so, as you need insulating fishplates to isolate your two ovals, I find you need to have a bit of speed turned up on both controllers to get over the point Where there is no current with some locos, this again may increase the risk of derailments. Sorry, don’t mean to sound defeating, but just something to bare in mind if you wish to run long express steam locos, mk3 carriages and the like.

....or if it’s been out of the box someone may have began a process of re badging/numbering but didn’t get too far 😉 Ps my first post got lost a bit, it is two up before the photos. Charles I was 6010

King Charles I carried 6010, Charles II 6009. Value, just been said in another thread, as always depends what people are willing to pay. As this seems like an oddity though and a manufacturing error, and it’s boxed then might appeal to somebody. impossible to say, was it the only one made in error, who knows, looks like someone simply stuck the wrong nameplate on. Sorry can’t be more help. Three choices, auction it explaining the situation with it, keep it and see what happens in 50 years or play with it. I’d do option 3 personally, Might actually be worth less than your friend bought it for given the error, again don’t know, though I’d want one with the correct nameplate. I have a Norwegian state Roco loco with a registration code that was never in the livery it has (and they made all the liveries and gave a correct number for that particular livery except this one) . That was a mistake for the whole run though rather than a one off mistake. I play with it 😆

I would say moreover it might be the slope/track. if you want all your locos to get up (including the class 47) then the track needs to be flat enough for all (not all locos are equal 😉). I’d try flattening it out as per above and see if you can get them both working without putting strain on any of the motors. As I assume that you want To get Both around your layout. The pickups may be different on your two locos so it could still be electrical to the 47. Play around see if you can them both working. Test the 47 on straight flat track making sure it’s not sluggish and in need of some tlc

Perhaps you’ve already un pinned it to fix. If it is isn’t pinned down then that should make the job easier to fix and less messy. Use blue tack to stick the track down and see if firstly all the electrical side of things isnt a problem then if the incline is too steep and if so then elongate the slope (moving the bottom of the incline further away from the ‘summit’ by raising your flat part at the bottom working away from the the incline, thus making it more gentle and longer until it works, as said). Then pin down. Also is it my eyes or is your layout n gauge, the track looks like it is?