Blink Bonny not working on HM7000

[taunmarc88]

I did feel bad having to ask the question… I felt that I had listened to the initial announcements from Hornby regarding power supply and assumed that it would be correct still considering the amount of time they have been developing it and how recently they announced it. I thought I could wait until the Eastener digital set arrived using the DC controller temporarily.

I only posted as I was all set up on the dining room table with dinner fast approaching and I was hoping to solve it quickly before it all got packed away. At the time I genuinely thought I may have broken the locomotive or chip as all my knowledge at the time told me that what I had done was correct so I was quite desperate.

After I got some guidance I ordered the parts and packed everything away. I then managed to find the other post about it which I had genuinely searched for before but missed in my haste.

I did feel scolded by responses, which although it doesn’t bother me emotionally definitely gives me reason to think I wouldn’t ask for help next time. I already feel like a fraud returning to the hobby after years away from it, as if that makes me less worthy of a voice.

All I would say is be careful jumping on threads to tell people to try harder when another more novice forum member may well have already experienced this and could have offered a helpful hand of friendship.

I initially thought the forum was to talk about Tt120 and ask for help. It seems that may not be the case. I wonder, what is it for then?

I would like to remain on here but I understand if this counts as being negative or breaking a rule.

Thanks for everyone’s help, I needed it and was glad to put my mind at ease.

[96RAF]

At risk of offending anyone again, I refer you to the forum rules that say if you have a beef with a moderator (or any members postings for that matter) then complain to the site admin, not to the forum.

Correct advice is good advice not scolding and referring folk to the correct place for up-to-date current information is the correct thing to do. If I seem a little brusk in my methods then bear in mind we moderators have to deal with repeat after repeat of the same questions several times a day and it becomes tedious.

The Select controller is still getting bad press decades after it was fixed because folk are listening to the wrong information. There was even an article in a recent BRM still perpetuating the myth that I had to flag up to them resulting in an apology to Hornby.

As Fishy said, as past information is corrected in light of user experience and the manuals change, we could cut and paste the updated bits but that doesn't improve anyone's modelling skill sets. Treat this learning curve as you would any other education and use the proper books.

Or you could just watch Sam's Trains. He doesn't read the HM7000 manuals either it seems.

[Daedalus]

Is there any basic info on the Android App such as earliest version of Android supported.

[96RAF]

Is there any basic info on the Android App such as earliest version of Android supported.

 

 

You would be better off posting over here - 🚂 Don't miss your train! (hornby.com)

[Railbob]

Hi Taunmarc88,

I’ve just received my R7337 power supply, it works perfectly. I’d order one if I were you and start enjoying the App . The sounds are great and surprisingly loud for such a small speaker, I’m now beginning to think that this is the way forward for me.

Railbob

[Fishmanoz]

Trust your forum experience improves from here taunmarc. It was unfortunate your question related to the set controller where correct advice changed in a very short period.

If you buy the bundle as Railbob suggests above and then the digital set, you’ll end up with 2 adaptor cables but the PSU in the bundle is 4 Amps where the one in the digital set is only 500mA. The 4 Amps will allow for expansion where the 500mA won’t. And it will get you going now rather than waiting.

[Moccasin]

I only got the adaptor as I have a Select PSU from my OO Mixed Goods set. Anyway, after a few tries with the Flying Scotsman sound profile not being picked up, I de-linked, used the default profile and all was well after re-assigning.

Thanks for all the advice in the thread and to @96RAF for advice & patience here and in other threads.

[Fishmanoz]

You could have just plugged the powered-up Select in without the adaptor cable? Either with the original 1Amp or upgraded to 4 Amp.

I’ve done just that with the Elite. Haven’t bothered to remove the capacitor from the power track yet, only temporary anyway.

[Moccasin]

I did consider that but this seemed the cleaner way given the problems I’d had before. The Select power cables are bare wire and I felt that, for £8, getting a clean, tidy & simple connection was worthwhile and took no chances.

Interestingly, the decoder immediately picked everything up as soon as it went on the track. When I first tried, through the analogue controller, it claimed not to be sound enabled.

All useful learning. Can’t justify buying another locomotive right now, although plan to sell some of my old 00 stock that has been in a cupboard unused.

[96RAF]

Interestingly, the decoder immediately picked everything up as soon as it went on the track. When I first tried, through the analogue controller, it claimed not to be sound enabled.



Which all goes to prove why you shouldn’t use an analogue controller, just a direct feed from the PSU.

[Moccasin]

Which all goes to prove why you shouldn’t use an analogue controller, just a direct feed from the PSU.

 

 

Like I said before, I was following the published Hornby upgrade path for train sets. That STILL states on the HM7000 page that this is a great way to upgrade. Hopefully Hornby will change that soon so that it’s consistent with the decoder manual.

 

 

[taunmarc88]

I received my bits from Hornby, only to find the adapter from the Scotsman I have is not the right one for the DCC cable and track I now have. It looks like I need a £59.99 one to power the DCC (which comes with the cable I just bought for a few quid). So I’m still not running.

I’m wondering how many more extra bits will I need over time? And I assume I will need more power to run multiple locos and I will have to do a bus wire and then maybe need a new adapter? Add onto that the extra cost of the locos fitted with chips (vs analogue loco without…)

Should I just cut my losses and do analogue? I think I understand DCC and then clearly do not, I just don’t think I earn enough money to fund it on DCC. I’ll never have any locos to run, which I assume is what DCC is good for (and the sound).

One other thought incase anyone would know, if another manufacturer did start producing TT models, could they be run in the same way on DCC with HM7000? Or would I then need a DCC controller (more expense?).

Im going to hold off ordering that PSU for now until I get a few opinions, I’m thinking if I go analogue I’ll buy Mallard now and just crack on with it. I’m itching to start!

[david_watts1]

@taun CHECK with the boffins first, but I believe the PSU that comes with the Scotsman set is 19v and the chips are rated 12v to 20v+. You could cut off the barrel connector on the supply and solder it directly to the track or fishplates. I have the big brick supply, it comes with Scalextric Digital sets so I am waiting for the digital Easterner set for the connector lead. I'm also waiting for the android software. Bus wire is fairly cheap, I paid 16 quid for 10m of 14 gauge wire. I got some lever connectors too, so I don't have to solder connections.

[Fishmanoz]

Taunmarc, I think you may have misunderstood what you needed to buy.

All you need is HM7020 supply adaptor cable. Is this what you bought?

If not, you still need to buy it except see further below. You don’t need to buy any different track from what is in the set or any other parts.

That cable plugs into your PSU at one end (the PSU - power supply unit - is the part that plugs into the wall) and your power track at the other end.

When you get your digital set, it will contain those exact same 2 parts. It does not include the controller, the one with the knob that also plugs into the power track (as per RAF’s earlier advice, that controller should now be in the drawer as you have no use for it).

Railbob gave you alternative advice on what to buy - R7337. This contains the same supply adaptor cable and a 4 Amp PSU which will run more locos than you are able to with the set PSU you already have. The set PSU is only 500mA (half an amp) and will likely run only 2 locos.

[david_watts1]

@Fishy The PSU P9000W (19V 0.5A) that comes with the Scotsman set has a smaller barrel connector than the 4amp brick. So the PSUs that come with the digital sets will have a bigger connector.

[taunmarc88]

So the PSU in the Scotsman does not fit into the HM7020… I did try a bit of persuasion but I think you know when to quit trying to shove one thing into another. It is interesting to hear that buying R7337 would increase the amount of locos I could run, at least I wouldn’t be wasting money buying it.

Im going to think on it, at the moment I’m thinking I’ll just go back to analogue but that will still have cost implications as I would need a better controller.

Thank you for the advice.

[96RAF]

Hornby will be introducing another adapter cable with the correct 5.5/2.1mm socket to fit the P9000 PSU eventually, but you can find them as pigtail sockets for CCTV cameras on the internet suppliers.

[david_watts1]

@taun since the 4amp bricks are currently out of stock, you could 'search' for a P9300 or C7024 they are the same thing, one for railways, one for slot cars.thinking_face 21quid if you look hard.eyes If you have the power track that comes with the set, you might want to remove the capacitor too.

[P-Henny]

@Fishman, sorry but just pointing this out to try and prevent further misleading advice being propagated. @taunmarc88 has already indicated in a previous reply that he has been misdirected by this bad info.

This is the second time you have inferred in different threads that you can use a 'set' PSU with the HM7000 power lead in your posted advice. It may not be what you meant to say, but that is the way it reads.

The 19 volt 'set' PSU has a 5.5mm/2.1mm DC connector plug. This is too small for the 6.3mm/3.0mm socket on the end of the HM7000 power lead. In Hornby world, the digital 15 volt power supplies all have 6.3mm plugs. The analogue 'set' power supplies all have 5.5mm plugs.

To use the 19 volt 'set' power supply directly on the track you need to make your own track connection lead from individual parts. For example a 5.5mm in-line socket wired to a pair of wires terminated with X8011 terminals.

96RAF states in a post above that Hornby are likely (possibly) to add a 5.5mm power lead version in the future but it is not currently available from Hornby.

But as you do state correctly, the 0.5Amp output of the 'set' power supply is only good for one (two at most) loco(s) so not really worth doing except for temporary testing.

[david_watts1]

In my opinion, I'd just bin the supplied power track. Use 14 gauge wire for a bus, and have dropper wires connected to fishplates about every meter or around points (to lessen the chance of poor connections and dead spots ie improve running). Cut off the plug on the P9000 and use that for controlling 1 or 2 locos. And search for a P9300 or c7024 in the meantime.

[Moccasin]

@taunmarc88 I can imagine your frustration and disappointment but if you search P9100 Hornby on Amazon, it’s on sale for about £22. If you have Prime you can get it tomorrow.

The P9100 is the PSU for the Select & Elite DCC controllers and is a 1A supply. I have successfully attached this to the adaptor and was running my TT-120 Flying Scotsman with it at the weekend. All the faults I’d had before disappeared.

A quick, simple & relatively inexpensive solution to get you running quickly. Cheaper than a new controller too.

[Hobo1707823141]

@taun since the 4amp bricks are currently out of stock, you could 'search' for a P9300 or C7024 they are the same thing, one for railways, one for slot cars.thinking_face 21quid if you look hard.eyes If you have the power track that comes with the set, you might want to remove the capacitor too.

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311&_nkw=hornby+p9300&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=Hornby+ps9300&_osacat=0

[david_watts1]

@hobo So much for hintingjoy Would have been easier to say Ebay item number xxxxxx PS not mine

[Fishmanoz]

Well, I am suitably embarrassed by my incorrect advice, suitably admonished by those who have pointed out my error and apologies to taunmarc.

I could of course have provided the correct advice simply by pointing to page 16 of the manual which goes into great detail on this. Or I could simply have looked on my dining room table where the two incompatible plugs are sitting not 6 inches apart.

If I could just summarise the correct advice:

• that CCTV product is part of the Hornby advice in the manual
• the digital sets will not come with a different PSU but a different adaptor cable R7403 which will work for all set PSUs so far (so more than likely Paul and covered in the manual)
• the preferred R7337 4 Amp bundle is currently in stock.
• while buying the 1Amp Select/eLink supply is an option, it is still limited on the number of locos it can run so my preference would be R7337 if you are going to get a new PSU at all
• those with a digital set on pre-order and willing to wait, do not need to buy anything extra now. They will have everything they need when that set arrives.

[taunmarc88]

I finally have a fully working DCC loco! Thank you to everyone for helping… the final piece of the puzzle was the Select controller PSU. I actually bought the virgin pendolino set in OO years ago and it was in the loft. Plugged it in and immediately got perfect sound from Blink Bonny. I’ll probably now just get the Eastener digital in the summer and then I can use that.

My first taste of DCC in years and first ever sound experience. It’s amazing!