StuLarge Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 On 03/07/2024 at 10:35, ntpntpntp said: Remember when you lay your track it is advisable to ensure the rail ends are properly secured either side of the baseboard joint, again so that the alignment is 100% accurate every time you assemble. There are various ways of doing this, using commercial products (not sure if any for TT:120 yet), or soldering the rails to copper-clad strip or brass screws There are these which look absolutely ideal. But they say compatible with code 55 and the different track codes got me confused. Link to another thread discussing code. Guess sandpaper to adjust in one direction and paper/card packers in another 🤷🏼♂️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 (edited) @StuLarge A couple of things I don't like about those ModelTech rail aligners: 1) they're only really suitable for 90 degree right angle crossing of the joint. Many of my tracks cross at an angle (which soldering to brass screws copes with) 2) Peco code 55 rail has a special "double T" rail section, the lower part of which should be hidden below the sleeper tops. Using those ModelTech aligners means the sleepers end up too low compared to the foot of the rail unless you first grind away the lower part of the rail section. I bought some similar N gauge aligners from a Swedish firm but decided not to use them and stick with the brass screws. Here's an example test of removing the lower part of the code 55 rail. Using brass screws and soldering to the hidden lower section of the code 55 rail means that the screws are hidden below the ballast. 3) forgot to add: you shouldn't rely on track "aligners" for accurate alignment. Use alignment dowels fitted to the baseboard ends to ensure the boards come together accurately every time. As I mentioned in a previous reply here. Secure the rail ends either side of the join so they don't move, but don't put any strain on the trackwork - which an aligner such as the Modeltech might do. Edited July 4 by ntpntpntp 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted July 15 Author Share Posted July 15 Just a little more and can start running trains 🤣😵💫 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted July 16 Author Share Posted July 16 (edited) After gluing schema to the board, now I am scratching my head 🤔🫥 I am peaty sure it is bad idea to glue cork on top of the schema (paper not the greatest base). But how do I remove it, but at the same time keep it to get all the tracks aligned correctly 🤔 Edited July 16 by Grenkin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 Use a craft knife to mark the positions and wallpaper scraper and spray water on to lift 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted July 31 Author Share Posted July 31 Some progress 😃 Looks small, but oh boy how big it's for me 🫣😵💫😃 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 (edited) Coming along 🙂 Make sure the point tiebars and any over-centre springs are kept clear of ballast. Tip: when ballasting, after spreading the ballast tap the top of the rails gently with whatever spoon you're using to shovel the ballast. This will "bounce" loose grains off the tops of the sleepers before you apply the glue and give you a neater result. Edited July 31 by ntpntpntp 5 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac202 Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 Looks like he's used the double sided sticky tape method, as in a That Model Railway Guy's video, so no glue involved. Any loose ballast should be removed with a vac clearing the points mechanisms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 1 Author Share Posted August 1 1 hour ago, Mac202 said: Looks like he's used the double sided sticky tape method, as in a That Model Railway Guy's video, so no glue involved. Any loose ballast should be removed with a vac clearing the points mechanisms. Actually I used both 🤣 There is tape and then glue afterwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 Hello, I have a question ❓ I am going to use Peco platform on a straight Do I need cork under it? How far should it be from rail? Ballast should go to the platform? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 37 minutes ago, Grenkin said: Hello, I have a question ❓ I am going to use Peco platform on a straight Do I need cork under it? How far should it be from rail? Ballast should go to the platform? If you have cork under the rail then ideally yes, but note there was a lot of height variations on real platforms, sometimes just on one. As far away as the widest loco will allow without fouling which is really the 08 with outside rods. Yes, ballast does go to the platform edge (never got around to it on mine though). 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renoir Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 Hope the attached might help. Yes, ballast to the edge and all sorts of shades, and general muck and grime. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 Real life examples like this are great reference material. Details like all that oil and grease that’s dropped from waiting locos 😁, I can smell it now 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renoir Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 And the yard is another level...you can't see the sleepers due to years of ash, oil and general muck 😁 Photo upsidedown ☹️ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 7 Author Share Posted August 7 Oh, so much struggle to solder tracks for someone who never did this before. Even bigger struggle is to solder to small parts of track on the points. Looking on the shunting yard and it makes me sad. But, question: I assume that if I've added wires in the marked places after the points, I do not need to solder anything to the circled points, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 My preference is to have droppers at the far end of lines. Provided there is a dropper feeding both ends of points, that should be fine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 On 31/01/2024 at 10:47, Rallymatt said: Perfect purpose for flexi track. As adjoining sections are fixed, this makes using flexi really easy. Tillig flexi is code 80, same as Hornby set track so you can connect up with no problem. Then you create the custom curves, ensuring the radius is as gentle through the length as possible. It will have two curves, a very elongated S. Looks great and works well. This is mostly for me (and if anyone would search), but looks like Peco flexible track would also connect to Hornby. Yes it is different code, and it would look slightly odd, but it is possible. Referencing a comment with the photo of two joined together. P.S.: Rallymatt, this is not to complain to your comment, this is for the history. Also I've already followed your advise and successfully added Tilling flexi track to my layout 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 @Grenkin no apologies needed 😁 it’s all about trying what works for you. There is a tiny height difference between Peco and Hornby/Tillig, it’s not enough to affect running. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 Btw regarding the flexi track could not find the answer, how fix rail in place? I am using it at the end of the line (line ends with flexible track). I've glued sleepers to the cork, but I can still move the rail itself easily. How I can prevent this? Keep in mind I am using Hornby buffers and they do not hold the rail. I was planning to add nails in the end, but maybe better way exist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 Is the rail moving in the sleeper chairs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 20 minutes ago, Rallymatt said: Is the rail moving in the sleeper chairs? Yes, it was. But, I've "solved" the problem using super glue 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 All rails are done now. Next is work on electric, and I am afraid of turning the board as there would be a mess of wires 🫣 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 Good use of brass screws at the board joints. That's my preferred method. Try and "flow" the solder joints a bit more, maybe add a little bit of flux when tinning and making the joint. If you haven't been doing so, I'd suggest run a file over the top of the screw first to remove any coating and also to "key" the surface. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 Everything Nick has said, plus I am sure he would also agree, practice practice. Filing a surface to be soldered (rail or brass screw) and use additional flux. The flux in solder isn’t really where you want it. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 @ntpntpntp @Rallymatt Thanks for suggestions. I completely forgot about filing and was soldering as is. My solder should have flux in it, do I need "external" flux? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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