Irishmail Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 (edited) 39 minutes ago, Grenkin said: @ntpntpntp @Rallymatt Thanks for suggestions. I completely forgot about filing and was soldering as is. My solder should have flux in it, do I need "external" flux? I always add extra flux even with multicore solder, I find it makes the job much easier. Another tip I recently discovered from my 00 layout for joining wires under baseboards is to use Wago 221 connectors. Much easier and safer if the layout is permantly set up. Edited August 11 by Irishmail 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 (edited) I would always recommend a specific flux compound, essentially it cleans and when hot evacuates any oxygen from the soldered joint as it forms. The solder will flow better and make a stronger joint. Solder with flux never works as well, the flux burns off almost as soon as the solder starts to melt so it never does its intended job. The great thing about a soldered joint is that it’s really easy to make it again 😉 Edited August 11 by Rallymatt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 (edited) 1 hour ago, Grenkin said: @ntpntpntp @Rallymatt Thanks for suggestions. I completely forgot about filing and was soldering as is. My solder should have flux in it, do I need "external" flux? Not for soldering up electrical wiring as electrician's cored solder already has flux, but for a larger surface area such as rail to brass screw I find a tiny dob of extra flux helps with the flow. I use Fry's PowerFlow paste and just add a tiny bit on the end of a cocktail stick. A small pot lasts for years 🙂 Edited August 11 by ntpntpntp 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 1 hour ago, Grenkin said: @ntpntpntp @Rallymatt Thanks for suggestions. I completely forgot about filing and was soldering as is. My solder should have flux in it, do I need "external" flux? I have always used an external flux whether wire, rail, kits for over 50 years. For any electrical work wire to wire, wire to rail etc I use Corroline electricians flux. It was used by electricians at the carriage works for cables etc. It is a non corrosive flux as you cannot wash electrical items. For kits of Brass, Nickel etc I use Bakers fluid (common name Killed Sprits) which is Hydrochloric acid based and therefore needs washing in warm water. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Always use a separeate flux, and I use Wago 222 (similar to 221) connectors as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 That was not as scary as I was anticipating 😀 Also looks like it actually works 😃 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Exactly what I use [Wago 221] - brilliant bits of kit. R- 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irishmail Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Nice work there, makes my wiring look a mess lol. 😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irishmail Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 1 minute ago, RB51 said: Exactly what I use [Wago 221] - brilliant bits of kit. R- Thats what I use now, much easier espesially if you want to alter any wiring in the future. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 15 Author Share Posted August 15 Even riding test have passed 🙂 (Do not mind incident of wrong points...) VID_20240815_101556.mp4 Unfortunately not 100% passed, sometimes it disconnects, strange is that it can pass same part without issues and on next pass stop 😑 VID_20240815_101250.mp4 VID_20240815_101417.mp4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 You seem to have the baseboard joints working well 👍 where it’s stopped on last video, do you have a dropper between that point and next baseboard join? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 15 Author Share Posted August 15 21 minutes ago, Rallymatt said: You seem to have the baseboard joints working well 👍 where it’s stopped on last video, do you have a dropper between that point and next baseboard join? Yes. Droppers are on all sections between all points and all cuts in rails 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 Next I would check gauging on the loco. If you get a peak/trough in power the decoders do seem sensitive to it and shut down, gauging to 10.4-10.43mm seems to have a major advantage. Don’t forget tender wheels, I have found they are often the cause. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 15 Author Share Posted August 15 2 hours ago, Rallymatt said: Next I would check gauging on the loco. If you get a peak/trough in power the decoders do seem sensitive to it and shut down, gauging to 10.4-10.43mm seems to have a major advantage. Don’t forget tender wheels, I have found they are often the cause. Then I need to find gauge pin here in Spain 😑 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 Get some accurate vernier calipers and measure something you could use as the gauge, ie back of pliers etc. engineering suppliers will have Pin Gauges available in the sizes too. It won’t be too hard to find. 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 15 Author Share Posted August 15 4 minutes ago, Rallymatt said: Get some accurate vernier calipers and measure something you could use as the gauge, ie back of pliers etc. engineering suppliers will have Pin Gauges available in the sizes too. It won’t be too hard to find. 👍 Already on order 🤣 I think calipers as yours (based of video) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 Mine are Mitutoyo ones, I think these were £40 ish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 16 Author Share Posted August 16 Why is it so amazing just watching them go in circles? https://www.instagram.com/reel/C-vGw-StzEF/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 17 Author Share Posted August 17 On 04/08/2024 at 09:16, Silver Fox 17 said: If you have cork under the rail then ideally yes, but note there was a lot of height variations on real platforms, sometimes just on one. As far away as the widest loco will allow without fouling which is really the 08 with outside rods. Yes, ballast does go to the platform edge (never got around to it on mine though). Getting back to this question, could you share size if 08? I do not have one, but I guess better to be ready for other locomotives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 17 Share Posted August 17 08 is 25.5mm width across the connecting rods and pins. If you put some card or similar onto a wagon temporarily to bulk it out, you could do some testing in advance 👍 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted August 17 Share Posted August 17 3 hours ago, Grenkin said: Getting back to this question, could you share size if 08? I do not have one, but I guess better to be ready for other locomotives At the moment I cannot do anything as I am in hospital after an op. Possibly Rallymatt can help with this for you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 17 Author Share Posted August 17 53 minutes ago, Silver Fox 17 said: At the moment I cannot do anything as I am in hospital after an op. Possibly Rallymatt can help with this for you. He already did. Get better soon 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted August 17 Share Posted August 17 Just now, Grenkin said: He already did. Get better soon Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenkin Posted August 20 Author Share Posted August 20 Once again ballasting question. More specifically, what do you do with buildings? I have Hornby engine shed and Peco goods shed, both should have track inside. Do I need to ballast inside? How "spread" ballast should be in the engine shed? PS: Disclaimer as first timer not chasing extreme realism 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted August 20 Share Posted August 20 Depends on the sheds, larger sheds tended to have concrete or stone floors making it smoother but some also had ballast (goods sheds with a loading platform) and others just masses of compacted ash made smooth with wear, probably some ballast under that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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