Moccasin Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 I suggest that CCL Logistics need some different sized shipping boxes. Some “Fragile” stickers wouldn’t come amiss to stick on the outer package either. Seems pointless only having a Fragile label on the inner box, where it can’t be seen. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterM67 Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 A fragile sticker surely is a must. My package was well padded internally however this didn't attempt DPD from trying to squash it presumably by placing something on top! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 Last time I had a couple of things delivered it was comical. One box was perfect size for the Hornby box so no space for any bubble wrap and the Stanier full brake coach was in a box I could almost get into! The fragile sticker on the inner box is not that helpful. Hopefully all these issues will soon be ironed out as Mike Ashley wields the corporate stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moccasin Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 Well the Class 50 is running in but seems rather slow and noisy at half speed on the HM7000 app. Sounds like it has an angry wasp trapped inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Allen Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 Hope it’s ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renoir Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 I feel somewhat embarrassed to ask this 😊 but which way round should my ZIMO MN180N decoder be fitted? Been searching around and not clear to me which is "Pin1". If I fit one way then I get no Domino lights but a flickering high intensity light and tail lights. If I fit the other way round then the Domino lights work but no tail lights. Loco runs fine in both instances, and all was fine on DC. I suspect I need to set some of the lighting functions but can only address functions 1-10 on my control setup at present (an old Digitrax Zephyr). Any guidance appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renoir Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 The insulation tape protects the cut down Stay Alive tails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 The large arrow on the pcb indicates which way the main part of the decoder should go. Basically opposite to how it’s shown in the photo, and other way up. Any reason why you don’t use a mm HM 7000 sound decoder and use free app to set up then switch to DC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renoir Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 Thanks Matt, the orientation is what I thought but good to get confirmation. To answer your question, legacy and habit I suppose, and cost. I have had the Zephyr for many years and Digitrax is our Club standard. I've used Zimos in my OO locomotives and so have followed suit in my TT120 endeavours (to a degree, I have RoS decoders in some locos). The Zimo/Lais combination is particularly effective in my two Class 08's. Haven't really "bought in" to the Hornby HM7000 yet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 (edited) I drive via a traditional DCC system, currently Dynamis but limited function access is a pain. HM DCC decoders are full DCC decoders and the app is like falling off a log with setting up, so so easy. Then flip to DCC and away you go. I really recommend getting 1 decoder and trying it. I love my Zimo decoders too but HM DCC ones are so user friendly. Edited June 1 by Rallymatt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renoir Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 (edited) Hmm...food for thought 😉 ... I have a Class 66 on order so what you're suggesting is that I fit an HM decoder and set it up via an App via Bluetooth on my phone. I can then run it as normal using my Zephyr? The penny might just be dropping 🤪...feel I'm very late to the party. Edited June 1 by Renoir Additional comment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 Yes exactly, try 1 decoder, if you don’t like it I will buy it off you for what you paid, I am that confident. They work as a regular DCC decoder but they can also work via Bluetooth. The magic is the App and Bluetooth together for tuning the settings. Drop any free sound file in you like. Change it as many times as you like. Calibrate the profile to the motor, it’s a powerful system . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renoir Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 I will give it a try 😄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 I’d pop on in the 50 and see what you think. I run the 50 Profile on a BR130 (Ukrainian built soviet era loco) it’s awesome, check some of my videos of it. I love the cold start sequence 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonF80 Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 14 hours ago, Moccasin said: Well the Class 50 is running in but seems rather slow and noisy at half speed on the HM7000 app. Sounds like it has an angry wasp trapped inside. Mine was the same. I adjusted the vMid in the cv editor and that made a difference but not sure that’s right to do that. And of course that’s using the app for control. It also wobbles quite a lot on first pull away when it’s been sat for a while and after power has been off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonF80 Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 IMG_6483.MOV This was it during running in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 On 02/06/2024 at 08:46, SimonF80 said: Mine was the same. I adjusted the vMid in the cv editor and that made a difference but not sure that’s right to do that. And of course that’s using the app for control. It also wobbles quite a lot on first pull away when it’s been sat for a while and after power has been off. HM7K decoders can self calibrate if motor control is a tad awry. A simple procedure carried out on a clear track. Ensure F0 (lights) is off as this is the starting gun. Set CV149 to value 0 in the app. Press F0 and the loco will race off at max chat for about 1.5-2m then stop. Job done. CV149 will now show value 2 and the associated motor PID settings will have been adjusted. Your loco should run much better. Edit to amend CV148 to CV149 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonF80 Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 That worked a treat, thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moccasin Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 Mine’s gone back in the cupboard for now but will have a go in a week or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mulsanne88 Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 My Edward ran fine on DC prior to fitting the chip Then on DCC the sound worked, as did lights and horn but as soon as I tried to move off , all lights started flickering madly and I got an over current message I assume that’s a back to Hornby job, or does anyone have any ideas Chip is fitted correct way round Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Postman On The Rails Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 Have you tried a different chip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mulsanne88 Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 9 minutes ago, Postman On The Rails said: Have you tried a different chip? I thought of that but I am reluctant to mess about with locos that are currently running ok. I will talk to Hornby tomorrow and suggest that I keep this chip fitted so that they can assess it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 (edited) 4 hours ago, Mulsanne88 said: My Edward ran fine on DC prior to fitting the chip Then on DCC the sound worked, as did lights and horn but as soon as I tried to move off , all lights started flickering madly and I got an over current message I assume that’s a back to Hornby job, or does anyone have any ideas Chip is fitted correct way round Before sending it back I would remove the chip and try it again on dc to make sure it's not something that's happen to the loco while installing the decoder Edited June 2 by Rog RJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mulsanne88 Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 9 minutes ago, Rog RJ said: Before sending it back I would remove the chip and try it again on dc to make sure it's not something that's happen to the loco while installing the decoder It does run back on DC but… When running in either direction the rear lights light up but also the front lights flicker on and off at the same time. At the other end front lights are fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyjt Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 Well the wait and the excitement were well rewarded. What a beautiful model and can sit listening to it on tickover all day! Combination of easy set up on Bluetooth then seamless transfer to the prodigy WiFi set up I use on my layouts was so easy. Feel a second one for renumbering is now required! 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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