Toddie86 Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 Hi Have three old Triang engines that belonged to my father. All three run well on my older Hornby track from the 90s but I recently bought some brand new straights from Hornby and when two if the engines travel over the brand new track there is a dull vibration/rubbing sound and the engine slows slightly. I can't see where the trains are rubbing and the track looks near identical to my older 90s track. Is there anything I can do to fix it? The trains are a Jinty 0-6-0 and a Britannia 4-6-2 both Triang models from the 60s. The third engine is a diesel shunter made around the same time (also Triang) and that is silent over the new track. Also the newer engines I own seem to run over the track without issue. Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddie86 Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Just an update to add to above, it appears to be the "double straights" that are the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 (edited) Sounds like the old models have deep wheel flanges which aren't compatible with modern track. The old wheels are bumping on the chairs and sleepers. Folk with engineering skills have been known to put the wheels on a lathe and turn them down a little, but to be honest if you want to run old models it's best to use track of the same age which was designed for the models. Edited May 8 by ntpntpntp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 Do the wheels have milling on the treads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddie86 Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Thanks for the quick replies. I've had a closer look at the double straight track and I think "ntpntpntp" is right. The grips for the sleepers on the "double straight" do look to be ever so slightly taller! Which is a bit annoying. In the photo attached are two brand new pieces of track, you can see where the sleepers are attached to the track is marginally higher in the bottom pic than the top. Top pic is a Hornby regular straight and the bottom pic is a Hornby Double Straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 Which locos are they? If diesels than replacement wheels are available (at a a price) unless you can get a scrapper with later better scale wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddie86 Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 These are the two locos, both Steam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddie86 Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 (edited) Just a heads up for anyone who stumbles across this thread and has the same issue after testing all the new track I bought, it appears all of the "double" versions of curves and straights are incompatible but standard shorter curves and straights are fine. I'm just talking to myself at this point but I filed down the slight raised edges on the sleepers and that seems to have done the trick no more vibration. Edited May 8 by Toddie86 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 20 minutes ago, Toddie86 said: I'm just talking to myself at this point No sir, you are not talking to yourself. Ntp had the diagnosis straight away and you are presenting your solution. That's exactly what the forum is about. If you file the chairs too much, the rails will be released, leading to all sorts of subtle issues, like gauging. Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddie86 Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Thanks Bee, I was only joking about talking to myself 😅 I appreciate the point though about filing them too low, it turned out they only needed probably half a mm so all seems good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelerXYZ Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 Good work thinking of a solution. That is what railway modelling is all about. If you did file them too low, the sleepers could always be fixed with superglue. Mind you, I use superglue for most things. XYZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 The good thing about those two locos is that they will virtually last forever with a little bit of maintenance. Enjoy! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlloAllo Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 I have two dock shunters (don't ask), one with milled wheels, one without. The milled wheels version crunches around the track but doesn't like one of the points. The smooth version zips along, then slows to a crawl, then stops! It's not overkeen on the same points. Currently gently filing down the plastic. Don't know why one stops? Could it be a weak magnet? The light stays on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 57 minutes ago, AlloAllo said: ... zips along, then slows to a crawl, then stops... Could you have a bit of fluff winding up on the internal mechanism. Something that mechanically binds up. Especially so as 59 minutes ago, AlloAllo said: The light stays on. Meaning there is still power to the locomotive. The motor should turn, but cannot Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Does the armature get hot as well? I have had this problem with a few Tri-ang motors. It’s been a fault in the armature and a change has solved the problem. The dock shunter is basically the same as the Transcontinental power bogie with a different top piece and can be swapped over, much easier than changing the armature as you will inevitably lose one of the trust ball bearings!. Just make sure you put the top piece back on the same way round. If you want to change the armature then as well as the Transcontinintal bogie, it’s the same one in the DMU/EMU/blue Pullman but not the Hymek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlloAllo Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 No fluff found, but it was over-oiled. Now taken to shorting out... No lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlloAllo Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Perhaps I should not have soldered direct to the brush. Will retrace my steps. Electricity still a mystery to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 If you took the wheels out did you put them in the right way round? One side is insulated (black plastic bush around the axle) and this side needs to go where the pick-up is. The other side is live through the chassis. I have bought a number of Tri-ang diesels as non-runners for very little money that have had a wheel set put in backwards, less than 5 mins and they were great runners. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlloAllo Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 Hi Rana, I checked the wheels as I was aware of this .The motor is fine with power direct to the brushes. Must be my lousy soldering! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlloAllo Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 Hi Rana, One query please. What is the purpose of the capacitor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 (edited) 26 minutes ago, AlloAllo said: One query please. What is the purpose of the capacitor? TV interference suppression. More applicable to the old analogue TV and radio signal than digital TV. Edited May 11 by ntpntpntp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlloAllo Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 So the capacitor is not really necessary? Going back to the track, my elder brother had a train set with a Princess Loco and a Jinty, and some transcontinental coaches. This was back in the mid 50s and I think the track was on a grey plastic bed? Grandad's memory may be failing him there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simmo009 Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 50’s track was on a grey bed, and made of steel. A very different beast from what you can buy new today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 4 hours ago, AlloAllo said: So the capacitor is not really necessary? The RC network (resistor capacitor network) was to suppress electronic noise that would be picked up on analog TV and Radio receivers. Over The Air receivers. The RC network is really an artifact of days gone by. Nothing to do with the performance of your locomotives, merely a nod to an antiquated broadcast method. You may hear the noise if you tune into an AM (amplitude modulation) radio station if conditions are just right. The noise emitted by the locomotive is broad band noise, yet at a reasonably low amplitude. Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dBerriff Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 Amateur radio enthusiasts still care about interference. There are a few left, including my brother in law. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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